Kingman

No, my whole truck just moves around a little with severe gusts. I've never noticed any movement specifically from the rear. With the original bushings

Sounds like your radiator is clogged. That's what my Explorer did, any type of load and the temperature would sky rocket.

Just having some teenage fun...

You can do anything with enough money, time, and perseverance. Put a suspension lift on it, and cut the crap out of the fenders. The most suspension lift you can get is 3", which is not enough without some body work.

You're SUPPOSED to put it in your crank case to clean out your engine. Oil, fuel system, and cylinders.

Junk yards usually have sets of tires for fairly cheap with at least 50% tread (at least that's the minimum they take here)

My tensioner on my PS pump was stuck pretty good, I tapped it inwards (well knocked it pretty good) with the end of a long 1/2" ratchet through the fender well and past the frame.

Cut it off where the rust starts and have a new piece welded on. $20, if that. Or just cut it off and leave it. It looks like that's already been done before, and the rusted piece was of inferior quality.

Nope...never.

Your local auto parts store can order them. I got both of mine for $8. The complete end link kits (one side, spacers, washers, tube, and bushings) are around $4. Try www.rockauto.com as well.

I've seen a locked 2WD truck go where an unlocked 4WD didn't.

'87-'95, doesn't matter. Mine is completely stock and it's 33" from the ground to the fender well and 15" to the bottom of the rocker panel.

That depends. If you have the money for a suspension and body lift, go ahead and get 33s. However, they are more mass to turn and our engines struggle with them a little. There is a thread on here about the trade offs of 31s to 33s. And I don't know. I think someone on here has 32s on a stock set up, but I don't remember who. hopefully that person will read this and offer some more insight.

If I remember correctly all you need is a 3" body lift to clear 32s. You can do a suspension lift as well, 3" is 3". Body lifts are cheaper though. You may need wheel spacers or a rim with different offset and less backspacing to clear the width of an 11.5" tire.

Could what be a body lift.

Pssst, hocky pucks are frowned apon. Don't waste your time on the those. Get yourself a 3" body lift kit. No more than 3" though, ever. And instead of making separate threads for each question, try combining them together in one post and separate the questions with bullets or something of the sort. It makes things much easier to answer and keep track of, and takes up less space on the board.

31x10.50x15 STOCK. 33s with a 3"+3". 32s with a 3" either or. What do you have on yours? The engine isn't the concern, it's fender and frame rubbing you have to be worried about. 33s kill the power though, but it doesn't cause problems other than added wear on IFS parts. 32s should be fine. SEARCH is your friend.

Sudden bellowing of blue smoke+"worn" rings... Doesn't compute.

Hang 'em high!

Those boots look extremely stiff.

Driving with a very rich fuel mixture will ruin a cat fairly quicky. I had a temp sensor go out on my rig, and it was dumping gas into the engine at incredible rates (half a tank in 8 miles). The cat was so plugged it would barely run and drive. So I upgraded to a Magnaflow high flow cat. I don't see a point in replacing the sensor at intervals until it starts giving you problems. Running rough, poor power, and poor fuel economy.

Hmmm, gets me thinking. My '87 has a fuse slot for heated seats...

And they're butt ugly.

I've been rear ended twice. Hitch saved my truck both times, and screwed up the other car. Funny thing, they were both POS ricer cars.

What Alex said.