Kingman

Lol I guess they do come mismatched. I was always led to believe disks, 4.6s, and LSD came hand in hand. Hmmmm.

Do you have LSD?

I suppose that will work...lol. Check the plugs for abnormalities.

Hopefully someone else will chime in and give their opinion on the matter, I'm sure there's some fault in my logic somewhere that was overlooked and could be leading you down the wrong path...

I have no idea where it would say Sport Package or not in the ID but you can take off your rear tires and see if the brakes are disk, and jack up the rear end and look for an orange LSD sticker, or spin the tire and see if it's LSD Oh yeah the LSD/disk brake combo rear end is a 4.6 geared unit. The standard packaging is clearly labeled... XE or SE, and if you have adjustable shocks there is a switch in the center console right next to the E-brake that's a rocker switch and says sport or touring. Kinda hard to miss.

Yes. But the Sport Package does not mean SE. It was a package only available on the SE. Mine is an SE without the Sport Package and has adjustable shocks, but no LSD or rear disks. I think the XE can have adjustable shocks as well?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6705&hl= SEs have all the options, XE is the base model. Though most of the XEs were ordered with pretty much all the options of an SE. Though SEs can be had with a Sport Package, which adds LSD, 4 wheel disk brakes, and 31x1050x15 tires and probably some other little things.

So go buy one.

Did you check to see if the stock bottle jack is in the back?

Well then at least inspect the oil. That's not an outrageous quote, either. It's a DIY fix if you have the know how.

Do an oil change and see if the tick goes away and inspect the quality and pureness of it before we get too far ahead of ourselves...

Then can leak or blow, yes. Tahoe: Leaking, slowly showing symptoms. Ticking, good mix of oil and coolant, constant steam out the tailpipe. No loss of power, or fuel mileage though. The engine WILL blow sometime, soon or far off we don't know. Suburban: Blew driving down the road. No sign of it whatsoever. Sudden loss of power, instant cloud of white out the exhaust, oil had some water in it, cylinders affected were hydrolocked. But since it was only ran for a few min after it blew, and the oil was drained shortly after that, no damage was done. We just threw 2 new head gaskets in there and she was golden. Like I said, if it's a tick caused by a leaking head gasket, then I'd say it's going to need to be fixed. Once the damage is done, it's done. However, it takes time for this kind of damage to be done. It won't be overnight, it might take a few weeks or months before you start hearing it. But I was also thinking about it, and if the coolant thinned the oil a little, there might not be enough thickness and pressure, and if the oil just seeps past a lifter O-ring, the tick it would cause won't go away. I read somewhere this engine you have you got from someone or had someone rebuild it...? If someone rebuild it, they might not have sealed the head gaskets properly and you are now paying the price of that mistake. If not, then never mind.

They don't go with a bang. Low end, the bearings and sleeves that hold the rods to the crankshaft, etc. are a weaker material then the rods themselves, and coolant eats away at these, which gives way to free play movement causing a tick in the low end (bottom part of the engine). Once what is holding the rods to the crankshaft completely deteriorates, boom you throw a rod and the whole thing comes apart. I believe the rods are 2 piece, and are held together by pins around the crank shaft. There's a good chance of separation in this design, especially when another force is acting on it, like coolant erosion. In fact, my step dad's Tahoe has a leaking head gasket, and under load at low RPMs (like up a hill in high gear @1700 RPM) the ticking is extremely audible. His has been leaking for a good year now, and it's really starting to get bad. If it is a head gasket for sure, the longer you let the coolant sit in there the more damage it will do.

How long did the white exhaust last? Loss of coolant, heating up past normal, and constant white exhaust means a blown or leaking head gasket. Coolant eats away at internals, and can cause low end ticking which graduates to knocking fairly quickly. It would also explain running rough and sputtering. When my Suburban blew it's head gasket, a huge cloud of white blew out the exhaust and continued to until we pulled off the road and shut it off. We couldn't see anything wrong with the oil from just the dipstick. When we tore into the engine and drained the oil, it was obvious there was coolant in it.

People can see them in fog is what comes to mind. I say do it, I like the look of that one Pathy with the visor on it and I think it would look good on yours as well. Get rid of some of the glare and what not also.

Not that I know of, it's an internal mechanical component of the transmission.

Hahaha that was in the PoHo a few days ago

Are you getting these from the junk yard Matt? I didn't think they had any Nissans in any of the ones around here.

You posted it, then deleted it. Nice try. It would take a lot more than just garbage cans to bend up a frame. Some serious collision or jumping would cause frame damage, which is how mine is. Our frames are extremely beefy and well made, best yet fully boxed, for the size of the truck that rides on them. Are the LCAs stock?

Then quit making stupid, useless comments and actually put forth something "useful." Nothing useful whatsoever. You even said yourself you have nothing to add. Like everyone else said, it really looks like the UCAs are just simply too short. Have you talked to AC about it yet? I've noticed on mine that if it's sitting lower than it should, it does /-- And when it's sitting at normal height it's |--

Ah so it's sticking in second gear at the stop and then a few seconds later finally downshifts into first? Like 88 said, sounds like a shift solenoid sticking.

Well I can't figure out what you're trying to say so hopefully someone else will pitch in.

How do you know it's shifting?

It downshifts as you slow down, I think the shift in to first gear is pretty much at a stop, or if you're coasting at 5mph for a while it would kick down. Literally shifting from like first to second while at a stop? There's no way you would know that unless you start driving because it's at idle.

I'd just use sand paper or a scotch pad. I would be far too worried about messing up and gouging right through the good paint. By hand might take a little longer, but it's much safer.