Kingman

I was unaware they moved them. Thanks for pointing that out so it doesn't get repeated!

Most crank windows have the crank arm come in 2 pieces. The top part should be the trim piece and if you pop that off there should be a hex nut of some sort that holds the crank arm to the mechanism.

Small white plastic tabs hold the door panels in for the most part. Around the lever to open the door is a small piece of trim which is just popped off with a flat head. The arm rest should have a little circle cover inside it and you pop that off and underneath is a screw and that allows you to slide the arm rest off. Then behind the arm rest there are 3 larger screws which you remove and then from there on out it's gently popping the plastic tabs off. A wide flat head works best to work in between the metal frame and the door trim. The power window wiring is long enough to pull the panel back about 8", enough to reach down and disconnect the clip. I think that's everything but it's been a while since I've removed a door panel on one of my trucks.

It's a possibility. If it gives you code 11 or 13 then it is your ECU coolant temp sensor. It's located in the valley of the engine and a shop will rate it at 6.5 hours labor at whatever they charge. That sensor went out on my old '87 and it was an $850 something repair bill. There are 2 coolant temp sensors on these trucks. I'm pretty sure that code 11 is for the gauge and code 13 is for the ECU to adjust how much fuel to dump in the engine. That sensor should read between .3-1.7 ohms. When my sensor went out it was giving the ECU 120 ohms! That effectively told it that it was -1564561564156454313245616321787651321532 degrees outside and to dump a half a tank of gas into the engine in 14 miles. Neither of those sensors have anything to do with each other, either. If your ECU is telling you that you have a bad MAF you may have a broken wire somewhere.

They may carry it. A junk yard would be a good bet if you're on a budget. It's referred to as a compression rod, strut rod, or tension rod. Just because the guy at the parts store is too stupid to cross reference names doesn't always mean they don't have the part.

One day...

My driver's door pin is shot so the door sags quite a bit. It's aggravating.

Hahaha I totally forgot about this thread. My new Pathfinder does it too. I disconnected the switch in the hatch and the light is still on, and flickers off if I take a sharp right hand turn. Pretty amusing.

Oh sh!t that sucks man. Hope everyone was alright and not injured! From the looks of it, like he ^^ said, the other car got the most damage. Good luck with everything.

Variance in tire pressure isn't going to drop your fuel mileage anything more than 1 mile per gallon at the most.

Depends on what vehicle...my old Explorer looks awesome with the whites out. All the tires I've had on my Pathfinders were/are whites in so I can't say for that. But some rigs do look good in or out.

That sucks, I'm sorry to hear about your baby being taken away. I know how it feels. Focus on getting better, there are other gems out there to be had.

My '87 and '88 are both rust free. Gotta love Washington!

The only reason why most people go for leaves is to keep the cost down. That's the only rason why my buddy's B2 has leaves right now, but soon it will be a 3-link coil set up up front and then coils all the way around eventually. Leaves can be made to flex as much as coils if not more but there's a ton of downsides involved in the whole package.

Sand: I agree. Snow, why? Mud, why? We all have 4low. Hill climbs, why? We all have 4low.

HOW exactly will an R50 out perfom a WD? What situation for situation for situation/fact for fact can you attest to that proves this?

Some people just deserve to die...

Exactly, as long as the blades are pushers it should work. You'll probably have to fab up some brackets and what not.

Awesome. Totally awesome. So I have a question for Jim or anyone here, are you interested in having this make the local (or national) news? I ask because my Aunt Terry used to be an anchor for Komo 4 news and she is friends with a current anchor, Kathie Goertzen. I can email the link to MrJim's story to my Aunt and see where it goes from there. Just a thought that my mom brought up at dinner tonight.

Yes you are 100% correct.

That's an awful lot of debris. Personally I like the torsional rigidity and strength of the boxed frame and I think that's one of the better points of these rigs. The frames are beefy and strong, unless you let them rust out of course.

That's why there's holes to stick a sprayer in there and flush it out. Structurally it isn't a poor design, but it is for cleaning if you're too lazy to spray it out every once in a while.

For referance, his is what my buddy's '91 Yota SR5 3.0 V6 sounds like with a Flowmaster 40 series and no catalytic converter, it was quieter before we made him a cat pipe. I'd imagine the Nissan sounds somewhat alike. I had a Flowmaster 40 series on my old truck for a wopping 2 &^%*ing days. I didn't even get to make a video of how it sounded, but it did sound really good...

What series is that? Every Flowmaster I've taken apart is a baffled design.

It does look like it's sitting really low up front... did someone remove the torsion bars?