Kingman

Should be by jabbing the brakes in reverse and spinning the little star gear inside the drum.

Mine idles at 1700 (too lazy to adjust that) completely cold, and 750 warm with no accessories on and 900-1000 with the heater or rear defroster on. Also 4wheeldrivefun, clean your MAF sensor. It may not be contributing to the problem, but it's good to get it done and it may or may not boost your fuel mileage and run ability.

One of those moments when you're thinking one thing and something else comes out...

Whoops, don't go off what I said about the TPS sensor, I meant the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Edit: Beastpath already got to it.

A properly working TPS sensor will make the engine idle UP with those switched on. Like I said, if the engine doesn't idle up when those are on, it sounds like your sensor is malfunctioning and holding the idle higher no matter what. I have no idea how to test the TPS sensor, never had to do it myself so I haven't paid much attention to the procedure.

Haha a video? Of it running? That thing is parked in a barn, hasn't ran in a long, long time...

Try turning on the heater fan or the rear defrost. It should idle up about 200 RPMs when you switch either of those on. If it doesn't, then you may have a problem with your TPS sensor. Where it's idling at sounds like it should with those accessories on, but the sensor may not be lowering the idle properly when they're switched off.

Sounds normal to me. What does it idle at when it's warm? It should idle higher when it's cold and slowly start dropping in increments until it's at the warm idle speed.

That is some absolutely phenomenal fab work man, on the truck and the kit you're building for your buddy.

21 gallon.

Guitar Hero baby!

Very possible. If you don't have an amp meter, take it in to Les Schwab or somewhere that does battery tests and they will tell you how many amps are being drawn from the battery while the key is off. A draw even as low as 1 amp can drain a battery overnight. If there is a significant draw, then start pulling fuses until you reach the one that cuts the power draw. Then work your way to the source from there. Your old battery could just have been low on electrolytes and therefore loosing it's charge over time. If a battery is left too long without anything in it, the lead plates build up a thick paint of chemicals that make it early impossible to pass the electrons through for any length of time.

Funny sh!t man.

I had a drip on my old '87 from the same spot, ended up being the coolant bypass hose was tearing where the wire hose clamps eat into it. I could trace the path down the thermostat housing, past the water pump, and down and out of the very bottom of the crankshaft pulley.

If you have an amp meter you should test the starter draw. A good motor will draw about 60 amps per 1000ccs. The brushes or copper windings in your starter may be worn, or your solenoid is not giving a complete connection. But yes, check the wiring, starter bolts, etc. first.

Almost any hose with a 90 degree bend in it can be made to work. I used a hose for whatever vehicle that was the right size diameter from NAPA (I forget what size it is) that had a perfect bend in it, cut it to size, and installed. 4 bucks.

Yeah you feel so exposed. I climb in my truck with blacked out tint and it's nice and secure feeling. Then when I drive my mom's Jeep with completely clear glass it's weird as hell.

I had that same popping noise up front on my old '87, and it turned out to be the bolts on the cross member.

Thanks for the tips guys. After reading about the rear end issue, I did kind of notice that it seemed to be coming from back there the most. Took a lot of hard listening, but I think that's where it is. Although it may be likely I'm imagining things. I have today off so I'll check around and see what I can find.

Hmmm, I do have an LSD rear end. If it was a U-joint, wouldn't it always thunk when you hit the gas or let off suddenly?

The past week or so I've been noticing something that's really concerning me on my '88 SE, MT. The first drive of the day I notice that when I disengage the clutch out of first gear (say to shift in to second gear) there's a loud thunk/boom/clang (all in one noise, hard to explain lol). You can feel it in the seats, but I can't feel it in the clutch pedal and it feels like normal while this is going on. Disengaging the clutch the shift in to third gear gives the same noise, sometimes, but no where near as intense as shifting out of first. It sounds like the noise is everywhere underneath. I know that doesn't help but I havent been able to pinpoint where the hell it's coming from, which is why I'm posting this, hoping someone has had this problem or has an idea of what it might be. After a few minutes of driving, the noise is completely gone but I can still feel some "shifting" going on when the clutch is disengaged and then shortly after everything is back to normal. It just seems like the very first shift and the few shifts after that are the main concern. There is no whining in the transmission, either. Just the normal RPM drop in neutral when it's cold. Any ideas? Thanks in advance...

X2 that's a hell of a lot of work! Y'all deserve a beer!

Fo sho, with no cat and a huge pipe coming out the back!

That's hilarious!

I bet it was pretty quick with those car tires on.