Kingman

That's very interesting about the stock wheel locks. Mine had them on the rear tires and the spare tire, they looked awfully old. I bet they were stock. I had the guys at work *Les Schwab) take them off and put normal lugs on there when I had a slow leak. I don't like the lego rims at all. I painted them black so I didn't shiver every time I look at them. Can't wait till I get some black steelies on there! Those Infiniti rims are hilarious...

Of course, cheap and in stock when I DON'T have the money...

I have plans to build a custom subwoofer box out of MDF in the back cargo area that goes along and over the wheel well and stops at the back of the back seat. It will be cut to slide into where the factory trim panel is. There's a trim like about a foot off the floor that runs along the inside, below that is where it will be recessed. Rhino line it or carpet it and it'll look sweet.

The clunk is caused by the clutches in the AC compressor. When the bearings become worn and the clutch engages, it grinds or clunks. Some constantly grind while it's turning, others just clunk at first then quiet down. And some just completely seize after a while and roast your belts.

Check the linkages and make sure that the lever is even attached to anything.

Hope they stand by it!

Take that extra quart of oil out of that engine, over filling is just as bad as under filling. 3.875 quarts does not equal 5 quarts. 4 is okay to round off to, but don't stick an extra quart in there.

Check to see if it is the air compressor. Stop somewhere where there's no one around you can piss off. Have the AC off and see if you feel the surge. Then do it with the AC on and repeat. The results will be pretty self explanatory.

No need for a new torque converter unless the old one is toast.

No engine needs "back pressure" to run properly. What it needs is the right size tubing to promote the hot exhaust gas velocity as it travels down the tailpipe and out. Think of it like blowing through a straw, the perfect straw size allows you to blow the most air out with the least effort. Also think of back pressure as a paper towel or cotton ball (at the extreme) over the straw. You must blow harder to pass the air, now relate that to how the engine must work harder to pass the exhaust down the tailpipe. Back pressure is also a large reason why Flowmater, or any big name baffled mufflers are, for the most part, a crock. All they do is deliver sound, at the same time they keep a relevantly close amount of back pressure to the stock muffler. The best flowing and performing exhaust would be with proper headers, no cats, no muffler, and proper size tubing. There are things you can do to change the torque curve, and that involves the length of tubing on the headers, the downpipe angle, and a cat. The extreme case of no back pressure would be open headers or manifolds, then yes a lack of "back pressure" would be a problem.

Check your fluid. Is it brown or smell burned? When was the last time it was changed? Are you running the stock cooler or an aftermarket unit? The stock units on these are known to clog up and starve the transmission of fluid and proper pressure, which in turn destroys the transmission. The rough shift from 1-2 is somewhat normal with these transmissions. When you come to a stop and you feel the surge, you are probably feeling the transmission kick down in to first gear. It shouldn't be kicking down after you've stopped, however. They usually kick down at about 5 mph or so. If you fluid is old, I'd change it out and install an aftermarket cooler rated for at least 15,000 lbs. No, scratch that. You should do that anyways, simply because of the benefits and security of having one installed.

Have fun getting rid of it, finding people who need the specific transmission for the '87 is difficult. I've had mine (plus a mated transfer case) that's rebuilt on Craigslist for a long time now since my old '87 was wrecked so it's of no use to me anymore. I get people who call me all the time asking if it'll fit whatever year they have OTHER than what I specifically said this transmission will only fit.

I can think of 3 recent threads covering this topic, plus about a million others. Here's the most recent one. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24138&hl= I think we need a pinned thread that goes through and lists the different transmissions for which year/model/engine/transmission type.

Tree huggers...

Ran out of time to edit my post before I had to leave. Thanks for clearing that one up GG. I have that damn service manual on the RE and RLs but I can't find it anywhere. It's got to be buried in my garage since we just moved.

Any '90+ transmission will work. They are an RE4R01A. They are a 4 speed transmission with the 4th gear being the overdrive. That same transmission was used all the way until 2004 when the Pathfinders were completely redesigned. The transmissions used in the '87 and '88 Pathfinders are a L3N71B and L4N71B, respectively. They will bolt in to your Pathfinder but that's as far as the similarities go. Wiring is different, ECU is different, etc. Hell an '87 transmission won't work with an '88.

I have a 1.5" scar on the back of my right hand from when a crappy wrench broke on me when I was trying to remove the transfer case from my old Pathfinder. I was pulling hard on the wrench trying to turn a tough bolt and a prong sheared off and my hand came back into some thin square bracket and gashed right into my hand. Nerve damage and one hell of a bloody mess. The hand still tingles now and then from that, and it was almost a year ago. I was swearing up a storm about that crappy wrench all night long. Hopefully soon I can put my Evolve tools to the test and see how strong they really are...

The bolded is very different than what was said above, which now makes me lean a little towards the wheel balance. As I said, I would take it back in and have them re balance the tires and see if that fixes the problem or if it doesn't - it rules that out 100%.

WHAT?! The LKQ on 76th?! Sorry to thread jack, but that sounds like a score of a Pathfinder!

Then if it is what you say it is you just sold me...

From what Pathfinder? I want in on this!

Is it a quality tool? Well made with heavy metal and stout? Or is it chintzy? I cannot deal with chintzy tools, that's one of my pet peeves...

I need one of them things...

Longer UCAs for cranking, no BJ spacers.

I wouldn't say that's true...my step dad has an old Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench that he's had for 20+ years that he uses the sh!t out of including regular breaker bar duties and it still works perfectly. However my dad has a POS one that doesn't work anymore because he used it as a breaker bar.