tekazgtr1984

Here's the skinny on diesel motors in the R50 Terrano. There were three different engines, depending on the production year: MY '95 - '97 - TD27T 2.7L inline-4 turbo (same as that in the WD21 Terrano) MY '98 - '99 - QD32ETI 3.2L inline-4 turbo (electronic injection, intercooled turbine) MY '99 - '04 - ZD30DDTi Neo-Di 3.0L inline-4 turbo (direct injection, intercooled turbine) All three can be made to work in the R50 Pathfinder with modest modification. The only real issue I see would be the location of the brake booster on the JDM models. It is positioned on the right-hand side, whereas ours is placed on the left-hand side. Here's a shot of a QD-equipped R50 engine bay: Besides that, it seems like a pretty simple and straight-forward swap.

You want to splice in a capacitor, or you will have rapid flashing due to less load.

Looks like tmorgan and Steeevo beat ya to it.

I like this thread.

Washer fluid tank cap? Mine's gone...

Love these links. I look forward to throwing these on my R50 with the SFD. SteeevO, any plans for a jog-adjustable panhard rod?

This is only exclusive to VG-equipped R50's, though.... Right?

Winnipeg's on the map for kick-ass, custom Pathy schwag! Again, kudos to Jackson Autosport.

Nice mod! I wonder if Beard makes long enough straps for SFD'd R50's...

Awesome company. Every SFD that side of the Pacific was made by these guys. Keep us posted on how those pics go.

Those bolts can be epic buggers, especially for those of us residing in the good 'ol rust belt... I sprayed mine with penetrating fluid, waited 15 minutes and had at 'em with a breaker bar. Worked like a charm. But I'm sure an air ratchet or impact gun would make quick work of that rust, too.

You should have no issues running 2.5" BS on your wheels. Granted, they will stuck out more so you may need to consider wider fender flares. You could run either a 8" wide or 10" wide wheel, but you just need to make sure they BS/offset is enough to clear the strut. You will probably have significant rubbing issues moreso with a 10" wide wheel, too. You could make either work, though.

Sweet! I'm going to pick up mine next week.

Not at all. It's related to the topic of the thread... And, to be honest, I'd like to see a strut tower brace for the R50 come to fruition. I think the major issues are clearance-related, specifically the intake plenum, hood and brake lines. I'd like to see something designed but it could prove to be challenging. Back on topic, glad to see so much support for the Missing Link!

Even moreso the case in a giant unibody SUV, I reckon!

I like the triangulated bar you posted. That would be ideal in a SUV, considering the abuse it takes off the pavement. Hopefully Jackon Autosport has something in the works. I know Daddy Rim had a few fabbed up, too...

1998 XE. Just hit 190,000km on the way to work this afternoon.

I'd like to thank you again, John. This has been hands-down the best bang-for-buck improvement product I've purchased for my rig. And it's always nice to see local shops making custom schwag for the R50. I think it's high time you get one; Winnipeg doesn't have many modded Pathfinders. Mass-produced SFD's would be awesome but I think vehicle inspection agencies would have a field day with that. Regardless, I can't wait to install mine!

Support the Canadians yo!

Good stuff. Uh, no. I'm quite serious about my rig, thanks. Trust me, Boston. It's $40 well-spent. Especially in your case, with no front stabilizer. Yes, I took my rig in some rough stuff on the way home from work the other night. Noticeably more controlled feel, especially over uneven terrain. And for the record, I made this thread because of the bang-for-your-buck this piece of hardware offers. I think this knowledge should be shared because locally, there isn't much of a Pathfinder enthusiast base. It's all about the love, people. The Pathy love...

When it comes to braking performance, there's a multitude of factors involved. It goes beyond getting slotted/cross-drilled rotors. All rotors do is provide a surface for the pad to grab... That being said, how would slots/drilled holes improve that? Upgrading the pads, calipers and lines are all equally important if you want to improve braking. While increasing the diameter is a start, OEM pads still remain as such. Just because you've increased the rotor diameter, the OEM pad size hasn't changed. Essentially, these larger rotors are being put to no use. Upgrading the to larger, higher-quality material pads and more capable rotors is only so good as the pressure being applied. That means larger calipers are needed to handle that increased pressure over a greater surface, which means brake fluid should be upgraded, too. Think of racing applications. Just like with suspension, engine and transmission applications, you can't simply upgrade one part and expect some noticeably immense improvement in performance. It would be nice if it were that easy, though. As for noticing a difference between my braking and so-called "stock" braking, there are several factors to consider. Based on my experience with both, I haven't noticed a difference that is in any way significant. However, that's regular driving in normal conditions.

OME HD coils should settle approx .5" which is why dealers often sell them as 1.75" springs. AC's settle just as much, if not more (depending on vehicle factors) and from a design standpoint, OME's HD offering are far superior. You'll spend less and get more out of them. That's just my

Window seal material might work well... As long as you can find the right channel type.

Pezzy put it best. You could always go with some custom seals, using superior material than OEM.

Cheers buddy!