tekazgtr1984

I'm a little daft when it comes to automotive electrical, and I'm having some trouble trying to figure out how to modify my DRL circuit for JDM headlights. Does anyone know what's what or if there is some kind of wiring diagram for dummies I can use? Thanks!

Definitely a difference. Steering feels less mushy, improved rigidity, especially on crappy roads. The truck just feels better. Nissan should have run a bar like this from the factory.

Lift it! Get some OME coils and those 31's will fit just right.

Post some pics. It'll definitely help us brainstorm what kind of options we have in order to secure it properly and conveniently.

Sounds like you might need to figure out a way to secure it. Post some pics!

Didn't know that. Definitely good info. But I don't run Mobil1 in any of my rides, anyway. Never will. Motul Synthetic 5W-40 FTW.

Exactly. If it can be done a D22 Frontier, it can be done on the R50. There is a write-up link on this forum, BTW.

Meh, to a degree. But this mod is actually much easier than it looks. It's just a matter of taking the time to do it.

A lot of members run Mobil-1 and rave about it. If the price is right, go for it.

Blast away. I was expecting it. Clearly, I'm not a road test assessor so no need to read into what I posted to that degree. But here's my scenario. My '98 with 2" lift and 32" tires brakes the same as my friend's bone-stock '98. I've driven both, and both feel the same when I apply the brakes, be it at 50km/h, 80km/h or 120km/h. I'm going on some very simple findings I came across based on my own curiosity. I'm basing what I said on the fact that a 2" lift and larger tires didn't significantly alter braking on my rig. This is an SUV so braking performance on these R50's isn't necessarily a focal point. The difference IS negligible. Unless my experience is an exception to the rule.

I've been running 32" tires (265/75R16) for the last two and a half years and it feels pretty much the same to stock. In other words, the difference is negligible. The stock braking isn't all that fantastic, anyway.

You can go synthetic, and you'll be happy you did. Just don't ever go back to regular dino oil.

You could get away with removing the rear but I wouldn't even recommend that if you're riding on stock coils. The clicking is nothing serious albeit quite annoying but I would replace the sway bar links, bushings and strut mounts as soon as possible. You'll be glad you did.

KYB GR-2 struts with OEM strut mounts FTW.

Just a FYI, the kit comes complete with instructions. And the pics I posted should be pretty indicative of how it works. As for clearance, read here: Clearance

Ah, B... +1. Angle the top down, like a spout. That way it'll stay dry. Good job. A nice coat of matte black paint would be a good finishing touch.

Good show!

Yup, he's the head honcho. Awesome guy, knows a lot about all kinds of vehicles. ~$50 to the US is sweet! Hopefully, this catches on.

There was a thread floating around a while ago about custom fender flares... Can't remember where it is, though.

I can tell you right now it works great. Steering feels less mushy, and there's less body roll on bumpy roads. There is a noticeable reduction in body flex all the time and if you're rocking a lift and larger tires, this should only amplify the improvement.

I have the same issue at the moment. Just going to wait and do full stainless.

+1 I am also curious on those R50 rear links and panhard rod.

For taking off the rear hatch inner plastic covering, an upholstery tool works wonders.

Definitely a great price at $40. Not that I'm trying peddle local wears or anything. I didn't picture (trying to hold a yardstick and a tape measure required both hands) but going longitudinally, there's ~5/8" of clearance compared to the tranny crossmember and the subframe. Definitely enough room to work with a mid-skid. Absolutely!

PM Alkorahil and see if he can help.