fleurys

I say why don't you take a bit more time to fabricate some kind of easy and cheap sway bar disconnect for our r50 then sell one copy to me ? ! :-) best of both worlds..

would not want to roll over with this one...yikes !

No prob... Don't forget the front diff too... This one gets forgotten most of the time...and the seals are not that great on it, so if you ever went in high water, i'm almost certain traces of it will be in it... This one though is a bitch to fill back with a hand pump... Last time I bought an electric pump...this one : http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/Marine/BoatingAccessories/PRD~0799008P/Oil%252BChanger%252B12V.jsp?locale=en The plastic tubes are crap...once you change them for rubber hose, this thing is a charm... S.

I doubt greatly that someone replaced it with gear oil... Your TC (like mine) contains clutch plates that would simply not work with gear oil. Doing the trail you did last weekend, you would simply not have been able to climb anything without your TC slipping like crazy. What is happening is the same thing that did happened to me the first time I change my TC oil too... Simply that it was never changed... Mine was dark black when changed.... Now I change it every 2-3 trips that I go in water higher than the TC... Like I said, if it was gear oil, your TC would NEVER have been able to lock and hold while you're were going up. The friction plates need what's in the ATF oil in order to stick... sleep well!

Too young...RIP.

For God's sake, where did you get the rear spacers ???

It looks very goooood !! I should be with the cool kids next year...

You can add a big FAIL for the AC R50 snorkel.... made for the Australian engine that has a totally different airbox design... You can search for gopathygo thread about it... I don't understand why a company can sell stuff that do not fit and get away with it..

Definitely O2 sensors... On R50, we have heated O2 sensors, but I assume in 95 they were not heated...So the ECU will run in 'safe' mode for the fuel/air mixture until the engine is hot enough that it starts relying on the o2 sensors for better fuel/air mixture (therefore explaining the 30 minutes delay and when you let it cool down) . If you're good with a voltmeter, start your truck and wait for it to be hot... Now take your voltmeter and drop in on your O2 sensor. If you get anything out of the 0.2 to 0.8 Volts, you're sensor is done... I suspect it thinks it's to lean (0 volts) and sends tons of fuel to the injectors to help fix the issue... It's not your fuel pump, or else it would start to fail right when you start it. S.

Which parts company did you go with ? Nissan, Moog, ???

Maybe one..... : THE DRIVER !

pm sent about FAST

Wow... Thanks everyone for your inputs. Really appreciate it... 1) As for the air intake, I'm not planning on putting one since it would have to be done on my first skidplate (the front one)..and since the plastic original did not had any, i'm not too worried about engine damage.. 2) Heat dissipation and mud cleaning.mmmm Well, the plate will be flush with the trans crossmember but will be spaced with blocks on the back since the transfer case and the rest is higher. So to have a straight plate, I will do that with small attachement blocks.. So there should be plenty of space to put a tip of a power washer and clean everything without having to remove everything... But the beauty of this metal, is that if you wish, you can simply take a hand drill with a regular drill bit and make your own holes... I mean it's not alot harder drilling through this than though hard wood... So I'm not planning on putting any holes, but the client (you guys !:-) ) can easily add them if you wish or if you see that the cleaning is not as easy as I say it will be... In any case there will be a testing phase to see all that, but i'm keeping the suggestion. As for the heat, I'll see how it goes... not sure what to expect yet.. My plate will stop right after the TC, so before the muffler and the rest of the piping can have more wind etc from the side... That's one unknown for now... 3) Window access... That's one that has been haunting me for a while... I'm trying to think ease of maintenance and ease of trail fix... I actually have less than what I originally wanted.. ! I wanted 2 more for being able to change/remove the front drive shaft in a trail in case it broke... I dropped these 2 windows but to be frank I would have difficulty dropping any more... I change my trans , TC and 2 diff oils every 2-3 trails where I go deep water (above the diffs).. So for me this can translate to 2-3 times during the summer and I usually do it one last time before winter comes just to be on the safe side (don't want water in the diffs when temp goes -20c..). I Think they could also serve the mud cleaning issue... How about taking 5 minutes to remove all four windows and start power washing through these ?? I think It can work...We'll see.. Thanks again.. ;-)

almost... atx14a is 2.6 and the tx10 is 2.0 S.

I remember someone on the forum did it with pictures and lots of info... but somehow by search skills have brought nothing... I thought it was laxman0236...but i find nothing....

Personally , I think it's a great modif for anyone that wheel hard their trucks... We're talking here climbing serious rocks (like the rubicon trail or the moab etc...) Not for the once-in-a-while trail up on the woods... Yes it should work in the pathy...cause they have a link for it : https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-transfer-case-gears-p-4076.html With the trails I have done and about to do , If I had a tx10 in my rig, this would have been done for sure... I think you get the best of both world (high gear stays the same for fuel efficiency and low gear makes your pathy a crawler) and with 4.36 or 4.6 gears, you don't need to change these and have a very potent little crawler here.

Well, I have finally started my second skid plate project. This time I have used a piece of transparent acrylic to help me see where I needed to cut and where to put access windows. The final plate will be made from 1/4" Aluminum with SS bolts The goal I'm setting for this one is pretty much like the first. Which is hopefully no compromise... So the goals are the following : 1) Light 2) rust protected 3) Gives access to Engine oil drain screw without removing whole plate 4) Gives access to Trans oil drain screw without removing whole plate 5) Gives access to TC oil drain and fill screws without removing whole plate 6) Gives access to Front Diff drain and fill screws without removing whole plate 7) good and solid points of attachment 8) one plate for Trans and TC protection 9) gives access to the transverse link bolts in order to remove an half-shaft without removing the plate Number 7 was the toughest part... That's one of the reason I decided to make the plate as large as it is. Because it will attach to the <frame> rails, that is why it is larger. I did not wanted to fabricate more brackets or other gizmos... For now I am at my first draft and that's why my measurements are not symmetrical .. I just wanted to have a feel for the size and see how the parts would be protected underneath. Next step will be to do a second plastic one with final measurements and be 100% symmetrical. Then I will be working on the support blocks that will bolts in the frame (and where the plate will bolts to the blocks). If you look carefully you will see where I have tentatively decided to put the attaching blocks. I have draw a square with an X inside. The ruler you see on the side is 48 inches long just to give you a sens of the size of this thing. The holes will be covered and removable just like my first skid plate. Any comments or idea , good or bad, are welcomed. Here are the first pictures of the project.

I have the same leak..coming from the small windows where the trans meet with the engine... I have been living with this for 2 years and has not been worst or better.. does not leak on the ground.. so for me too , I just accept it but always keep an eye on it.... I have read the procedure to change the main seal and it is not something i want to try on a friday night in my driveway.... :-)

limits the travel to prevent the strut to top... so it's basically two hooks with a trap in the middle... The strap takes the hit instead of the strut.

Yes..same here... and I don't know how long it takes to sag or if AC did a newer version of their springs, but mine after a full year, tops out as much as day 1... So for me, there is no hesitation, i will be installing soon some limiting straps...

what about re-molded instead ?? http://www.technopneu.com/en/tires_remolded.php

I'm thinking that the 2-4 Switch selenoid valve is sending the wrong signal to your TC... The front drive shaft should not turn in 2wd...so somehow it thinks it is in 4wd.... So either the 4wd dash switch is damaged/broken or the solenoid valve has something... Check the resistance on the shift switch and 2-4wd solenoid valve...check the procedure here : If worst comes to worst, you could simply pass a switch inside the cab that would control the signal you're sending to the 2-4 valve..then you would control when you engage or not 4wd...

very nice... to get a sens of size, what tires are you running ??

OK, it's confirmed... I'm not THAT old ! yeah!

I just wanted to make sure you knew about the 'extra' procedure with these... So it's not a simple bolt on anymore.... You really have to choose which troubles you want... cause if you do not have an extra half inch of threaded space on your studs, then you will have to buy new longer studs and install them if you go with the plates.... or you cut your existing studs with the 1 inch spacer.... or you do like me (i'm lazy)..you buy 1.25 inch spacer and be done with it in an hour...