fleurys

I used it exactly like it is on the picture and hit the spider witha rubber hammer (whatever you call this)... and for the cleanliness, you can see on the second picture a white bucket... I filled this with paint thinner I think or acetone... Get yourself a good pair of rubber glove that can resist acetone and you'll be able to clean this out in no time.

yes they are interchangeable.. same part number both sides. The spider joint was easily removed by 1 or 2 hit well placed on it... you did remove the snap ring ? I used a vise to hold it and frankly it came right off...

if they don't help, this is what I went with recently and i'm very happy with the quality. It comes with a new rear block and the fit is just perfect.. These are the 4 inch extend line. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Goodridge-Brake-Line-1996-2004-Nissan-PATHFINDER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439b94682aQQitemZ290373003306QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1602wt_971

is it me or this setup (maxima) will create a huge mess when he changes his filter.....? !

That is your engine oil cooler o-ring. yes vqs have that (only on automatic trans ones).. No special tools needed but a long 15mm ratchet key might be usefull. Get the part at you nissan dealer only ..cost is minimal and the leak will be gone. You do not need to change the oil or time it with an oil change cause the oil will be lower in the pan. This is the part you need : http://www.courtesyparts.com/21334-oil-cooler-ring-pathfinder-r50-1996-2004-p-198475.html?cPath=4700& called an oil cooler o-ring. part numer you want is : 21304 .. some people also buy the smaller o-ring : 21334, but mine was still good and did not need it. by the way, the vq all eventually leak oil from this originally. I guess the initial o-ring at the factory was a bas design... When I changed mine, it was obviously pinched... so here you go... a good 30 minutes to do the job... faster if you have access to a lift

cut a hole in your skid plate and weld 2 plates on each side. a bit of work but well worth it..

drilling is the name of the game. Start with small bit and go bigger step by step.. You will eventually get to a point where you have not yet reach the threads, but are able to insert a screw driver or something in order to remove the fragments of the bolts... get prepare for a good 20-40 minutes to do this... and go slowly

Get a lot of towels, this is messy. Also hope that your boot was not ripped too long ago or else you`ll be doing all this for nothing if sand/dirt got in the balls and race of the cv... Good luck. S.

Great writeup. That's exactly how I do it. One thing to check with o'reilly is the fine print , if there is any. In my neighborhood, I also found a place where the half-shaft are guaranteed for life, but talking with them about the specifics, they told me they do not replace it if the boot is damaged or teared. So basically I can bring them a shaft snapped in two as long as the boots are ok ....

one thing you must know.. moog is guaranteed for life.... last set you'll ever buy.... it's worth something considering if you start offroading it seriously...

go moog ! (the problem solver ) ! hahaha http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/SouthAmerica/SteeringSolutions/Products/MOOG-Steering-Suspension/BallJoints/ get your part numbers here : http://www.fme-cat.com/

There is some errors in your description...but i'll start with the boot. Yes it exists : https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-outer-cv-zip-boot-p-2831.html and yes people have not said good things about this... it usually is a good compromise to get out of a trail and get a propoer boot installed...not a permanent fix. As for the truck. A 97 does not have auto-hubs. It's a direct drive with flanges. The half-shafts always turn, even in 2wd. When you lock the 4x4, the lock happens in the transfer case and all the rest is turning. So changing an half-shaft on a 97 is about 20 minutes and 6 small bolts and 3 big ones to remove + a snap ring. That's it... nothing to worry about..

hahahaha yeah you wished ! hey it's a start, you have the box...! Good to hear it arrived to you... post picture of your mod when you do it. S.

I was just checking the member map and you're not that far away from me. I'm sure we could do a nice trail somewhere in the middle... I know adamzan and northenpathy are at a reasonable distance also... we definitely need to meet next year and do a run. S.

I say remove your halfshaft 1 at a time (so that always one makes your driveshaft turn) and have a test run if you feel the vibration is coming from the front.... If it shakes only at load, then I doubt it's the motor mounts or trans mount... the halfshaft test is easy to do and takes not a lot of time.. or else, how's your rear ujoints doing... did you replace all of your ujoints or just the front..?

wow, that's cool... with this we can bypass the freaking 3 letters limitation in the search engine....

he is interested... i'm sending it this week...

if you pay the shipping, i'll give you my lsd diff with bearings and all. It has been sitting in my shed since I installed my ARB... it's from my 2001 and has 4.36 gears.

ice is for telling you that there might be ice on the road. I usually see this on mine too when temperature goes down to around 2 or 1 Celcius... about 35-34 F

you want cheap, you got cheap... seriously I feel you pain.. I have seen this thing work miracles... it is worth every penny and might save you an engine rebuilt. IT HAS WORKED FOR ME AND DID SAVE ME AN ENGINE REBUILT WITH A KNOCKING AND OIL CONSUMPTION ISSUE with a GM. I'm writing in bold so that before people start bashing, they know that I do talk from experience on this one... http://www.restoreusa.com/restorer.html this is no bull really... do it, you won't regret it. In my case, the engine stopped making rocker noise and stop burning oil within 24 hours of me pouring the stuff in..

i don't know for sure what it is, but I doubt is it a relay.. I mean a relay will work or not with current.. not after being without current for a while... The only thing that would make sens, for me, would be related to the ecu... this is the only thing that gets reseted when you do such a procedure.... I say get yourself a used ecu from another 96 and give it a shot. S.

mine... I was too lazy to figure out a place..so I bought one that the hand device is the cb... just a small connection box that was hidden under the center console.

sorry man.... I could not find any bushing replacement for these... they sell the whole control arm assembled with the bushing in... :-(