fleurys

change your coils. they are done. If it does not bounce, it means your shocks are still good.

yep.. Pezzy is pretty good at serving them !

My opinion is if your truck is still in overall good shape (good engine, no rust, etc..) meaning it is worth it, I would definitely rebuild the trans with a overhaul kit. have look here http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transmissions_automatics/nissan_pathfinder_pickup_trucks_van_and_xterra_overhaul_kit.html and ask these guys what they think about the issues your having.... I think it might take you less time then a complete swap and you will end up with a brand new transmission.

all of a sudden i feel like a dinosaur.... I really do not fit anymore with the new <fashion>.. this thing is hideous and I miss real trucks..

Thanks !!

That looks interessting... I always wanted to put something there to better support my mid skid... Do you know if it drops lower than the sub-frame or the transmission crossmember ?? If you could take a picture with a ruler or long bar going from the sub-frame to the trans cross member, it would show how far it drops... like a straight line longitunally

Well, it looks like my pathfinder model is not an SE but SH....... SH for Self Healing I did not had the time yet to look at the vacuum hose or connections but the code has not reappeared...Wot or not... So case closed...

Go AROUND IT !

This thing has saved my TC, driveshaft, ujoint, etc... many times over. It is seriously the best mod on my truck just because I have piece of mind when trying an obstacle knowing i'm not gonna destroy all those expensive things...not to mention, I,m usually far from civilization in my trails making it much more stressful. I encourage everyone to go get a plastic sheet and start the patern of one of your own, you will not regret it.

I have the same and I know it's the pignon bearing... but it's not getting better or worse. Considering the cost to change this part , I would say, if it stays like that and worsen , then leave it alone... Other than that, like nunya said, it could be your ujoint.

I beleive the lean condition for this code applies for the ford and mazda only.... The nissan advanced code for this p1131 that I found refers to this : P1131 - Manufacturer control fuel air metering - Swirl Control Solenoid Valve Are you sure of your source simon ? I will check the hoses tonight... S.

Started tuesday... I get the elusive P1131 code. I know the description of it and I suspect that my last drop in high water might have something to do with it, but I wanted to know if anyone had some hint of troubleshooting procedure since it is not in my mitchell nor in the fsm. I understand it is related to the p1130 code, but the procedure to troubleshoot this one is so long that it can be pretty much anything from the maf to the crankshaft sensor.... So I said to myself, if nissan added this advanced code for their vehicule, it might be because they can better pinpoint the issue... So I have the p1131 code and nothing else... Right now I think it has to do when I go WOT (wide open throttle). I have been gunning it a little tuesday and yesterday and the code came on both days (had erased it tuesday)... Today (thursday), it has not come up yet, but I'm also trying driving with slow to moderate acceleration... So this might confirm it... I understand that the action of going wot makes the Swirl Control Solenoid Valve work and open, the so dear to us, power valves ... So if anyone has specific troubleshooting info on the 1131, please speak ! for now I will gather infos and tests with different way of driving to try to find a common point.. Other than that, the truck runs and feels fine. Idle a 750, no shaking, quick recovery and same fuel mileage. so other then a nice <service engine soon> light, it's normal. Gracias, NPORA crowd!

Taking a break from fabrication for the trail season... I'm wheeling every weekend lately. Right now, my version 1 is doing the job very well, so no plans for now...

I think it's a good thing you opted for an INSIDE sticker...just in case some toyota guys would walk near your truck and somehow 'modify' it

Hey Daddy....you're alive !! :-) I<m happy to see that nothing bad happened to you... Since you told me in 2009 that you planned on offering a special front and rear spacers for christmas (2009), you have to understand my concerns when nothing came from you, either from emails or pms.... the last one I wrote you was start of june... Don't want to hijack the thread, but welcome back !

Sorry to say, but I have emailed and pm the guy many times since april 2009 with no answer.... very disapointed... I will be making my own this winter...

it cost me 500$ for the link bushing just in time... so i say it's about right.... If i knew that at the time (that it was going to take that much time), I would have bought the stronger links from tmorgan which you can change yourself and beef up your setup at the same time... now you know... the question is now : what are you gonna do about it ?

no you got it wrong.... they are not a bitch to install. the issue is to remove the old ones... So poly or not, you sill still swear removing the old ones.... putting the one piece rubber ones takes exactly 30 seconds with a vise and wrench sockets... with a few tools, here's the procedure to do it... Here's summary 1) do one link at a time 2) torch the rubber bushing 3) use a zip gun to remove the sleeve 4) use a air sander to clean the inside of the link 5) use a peice of tubing, a socket and a press (or a vise) to insert the new bushing 6) re-install the link but do not tight the bolts..let very loose 7) once all bushing replaced, VERY IMPORTANT, drop the truck on ground, then proceed to tight all the links. some video of 1 link being done in 15 minutes.... amazing how a job can look easy when you have the right tools...(and experience) Torch: http://vid435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/CIMG0574.mp4 zip them: http://vid435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/CIMG0579.mp4 sandpaper the link: http://vid435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/CIMG0581.mp4 insert the new bushing: http://vid435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/CIMG0583.mp4

I wheel my truck in trails regularly and I was at the same point last year. I figured that if the oem bushings lasted all this time, then maybe rubber bushings are not that bad afterall.... I live in Canada too, so bringing stuff from the US was also an issue for me. I went for this : http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=part~ID=1998~Nissan~Pathfinder%204WD~241517 Have a look. the shipping is free to your door. These are exactly the bushings that I put on my truck and they still hold very well, mind you it's only been a year or so... They do are a b*tch to change... if you do not have a vise and/or torch and/or sawzall , then I recommend you buy whole links with bushings already in. S.

good luck with that..you"ll need it I think...

to confirm or not if it is the maf.... unplug it... see if the problem changes or stays the same....

Hey Adam, anytime...bring it here, I'll help you...

I guess it would be interesting to see some data like the volume of air (maf), o2 sensors voltage, air temps etc... when it does it on idle so to see if any of these directions can be looked at in more details... If you were here i could help you with that.... do you know anyone near you that would have such an obd2 software that can read stuff a bit like this : http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/scanxlpro/index.php ? right now you have to navigate blind.... the only thing i'm thinking is faulty coil(s)... but i'm not sure how it works on a 3.3..On my 3.5 we have 6 coils on plug... how is the 3.3 setup ?? if p0300 means multiple cylinders misfire, then the only common point I can think of is if they all share 1 or more coils... sorry can't help more...good luck.

For what's it's worth, I had my share of frustration with seals from non-nissan... My last aventure cost me 2 hours of my time and some diff oil when I tried to use a timken (federal-mogul) diff seal instead of nissan one. I was in leak land.... so no more seal other than OEM for me in the future.... Hope you are more lucky then me... S.

I suggest you start by reading about your frameless vehicle , therefore limiting your choices to suspension lift only... Take some time to read the info here...