fleurys

you can use 4.6 at the back and 3.73 in the front , no problem...

Yeah, well, I learned something in 4x4...it always cost more than you expected or planned. I know that steevo from ruggedrocks has fitted an atlas transfer case on his older pathfinder, but believe me, it does not look like something I could tackle by myself...maybe i'm wrong, but it does seems intimidating ...have a look here : http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/2009/04/01/nissan-pathfinder-atlas-transfer-case-install-time-to-crawl/ not to mention you'll probably need a new front driveshaft, etc... this is a costy modif....and at the end, you would probably still not be able to climb up where you broke yours...there was obviously wheel spin, and a lower ratio would not have helped you there... I think on the other end you are thinking the right way when you say, you could get the pathy locked and repaired for the price of new atlas... and with lockers you would definitely have been able to slowly crawl your obstacle...and at slower speed...so less chance of doing carnage..

ouch...sorry I can't help you with your question, but if I were you, I would open up the TC and find and replace what's broken. I'm sure it would cost a lot less than any other options... Since you were able to get home on 2wd, I suspect you broke something that connects to the front driveshaft...so it could be the front shaft or even some of the teeth of the clutch drum fitting an atlas to the r50 can be quite a task... I can only assume the amount of fitting, welding and $$$ that it would require.. just my 2 cents..

If you went to the left when braking, this mean something happened to your right caliper... I would remove the passenger wheel and have a good look... you don't want to take any chances with your braking system... Maybe a pad got moved or even broke...really don;t know but when you look it should become clear...

Ho Boy,,,This would be the best news ... I don't know why I assumed it was the front. It's true that the fsm only specify <main shaft> not front or rear... Are you able to confirm that with some of your mechanics ??

What I,m saying is that the atx14a is not like the tx10 transfer case. Meaning that it is NOT idle when in 2wd just because is contains a set of clutch disks just like an automatic transmission. This makes the AUTO mode available in the r50, because the ecu, can engage these clutch disk and pass on 4wd automatically. Even if you are running in 2wd, the whole TC is turning, just not the front clutch pack...but these clutchs needs oil running on them to prevent premature burning... Go on the highway, stay at 65-70 and let me know how long it takes before the 4wd yellow led lights up.... Do get me wrong, I find what you have done very good as far as the description and pictures. I just wanted to make sure that everyone knows every facts about the this... open up your fsm for your transfer case and read it...you'll see that it is a completely different animal than any conventional transfer case... over and out. S.

I don't want to burst the bubble, but it should be noted that installing hubs on r50 that have the ATX14A Transfer Case is more than likely going to cause premature failure of it. This transfer case is clearly different in the way it has been designed and relies on sufficient oil pressure to lubricate the internal parts. It has 2 oil pumps and the primary one is driven by the front driveshaft. The secondary is an electric motor that operates in certain condition and 2wd is not one of them. So basically when you have the hubs unlocked running on 2wd, there is no oil pressure in the TC. be carefull with this... complete explanation of the ecu logic for the sub oil pump of the TC here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22160&view=findpost&p=405931

I think I might have found what msavides was saying. It does look like federal mogul (owner of moogs), did newer products in 2009 ... read on : http://aftermarketbusiness.search-autoparts.com/aftermarketbusiness/Distribution/Federal-Mogul-continues-MOOG-expansion/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/601463

My experience is : I put new ball joints in march 2009 . I choose the cheap ones a 50$ each... welll, there done... exactly 1 year is what they have given me... I'm looking at the moog ones, and will install them, but they don't have zirk fitting on my year/model : I have made about 20000km in that year and probably 1000km in trails.

Kyb strut bearing have been renowned to be problematic.... It's the part that goes between the strut mount(rubber) and the upper strut mount. It's the little plastic ring that has alot of pressure on it , and when it starts to fail, screaching noise starts.. You will have no choice but to disassemble the strut to really have a look at it...because it it really fails, then you will have a bigger bill.... if it's not that then you have lost a weekend and you can go on to the next logical thing....(Which would probably be tie-rod related, but i doubt it..they don't usually make screaching noise, but more like clunking noises..)

AC stands for Automotive Customizers... www.4x4parts.com this place is your friend....start there and look in suspension section.. welcome S.

wow...you did not sit on your a$$ did ya ! can't wait to see the final product ... Bravo.

does not exists.... you either make it or buy 1 of the 2 bumpers that are available for a winch (arb and this place : http://www.kenmtnac.com/WinPat9904.html)

looks like it .. I have a new switch in my dash.. some pics here... http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?start=0 now I'm working on a new unbreakable half-shaft setup because I know it's coming...

Sure anything for you rod...which one you want ...I got 2 now you know ... ;-)

I think if you get both the 4.6 gears AND the TC gears, you would have one hell of a crawler here...little calculation : (first gear(2.79) * TC ratio(3.7) * gear Ratio(4.636) * 2 (auto trans)) = crawling ratio of : 95.71 Considering a rubicon has a 73:1 ratio with the 4:1 TC and 4.10 gears, I say yours will go up just fine !! :-) the beauty of this is that you will be able to go easy on the fun pedal when crawling and save your rig... Sometime i whish I had the tx10 for the TC. I have been searching a way to change the ratio for my atx14a and it's not going to be easy. Since it uses a completely different system (sun gear and planetary like an auto trans), the modification is quite a bit more touchy than yours... I say this is (TC gears) a well invested 1000 bucks. I know I would if I could.. by the way, try to be ready for the end of may... I'm shooting to get some of you guys in here for a 2 days crawling fest...:-) stay tuned...

have a look here : http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/brake/462-brake-piping-control/-c-4700_4701_4806_4811.html you can also always call a good nissan parts guy that will find you the parts...no need to buy new brake hoses :-)

sounds like a strut bearing is going south !... don't wait to long to have a look at it. Someone here in the past had kyb strut bearing fail on him in a catastrophic way... If they make that sound, it means they are probably toasted.. Get yourself some from nissan : ref# : 54325 Pathfinder BEARING-STRUT MOUNTING

Why do steevo at rugged rocks list them has being compatible for r200 up to 2004 pathfinder ?? maybe someone could ask him...? http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/pathfinder-differential-gears-c-38_854.html

yep...japan made...metric it is.

If i'm not mistaken, the xterra have the r180 in front not the r200 like the path...

The reduction gears are gears you change within the transfer case, and you keep your existing 4.36 in your diff. There is also a new set of gears ratio availale at ruggedrocks. You can choose from 4.8 up to 5.8. The vad thing of this is that your high gear will also suffer from it and the price is basically the same. http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/pathfinder-differential-gears-c-38_854.html . Not to mention that if you do not know how to adjust the gear lash and setup a diff properly you will need some help from someone that knows... usually money will be involved for the install so that your gears last a long time. Changing the gears in your tc is just a matter of changing parts. There is no adjustements to be done and only your low range will be changed, which is what is important on the trail.. going from 2:1 to 3.7:1 is like going from your 4.36 to 8.08 . So in my opinion you get the best of both world..

I say going from 4.3 to 4.6 is a waste of money considering you are going with 35"... If you do not want to break everything, you could really considering this : https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=165_494&products_id=4076 .. This will bring your TC ratio from 2:1 to 3.7:1.... This will greatly help your 3.3 ..

4.36 http://www.driverside.com/specs/nissan-pathfinder-1998-2513-5503-0

I have the very same thing of my 2001. My cv's are brand new... I have found out that my ujoints in the front are shot. This is where the vibration comes from. One way to know for sure for you would be to simply remove your front driveshaft and see how the ujoints work... if they are stiff and seem like stuck (like mine were), you can give them some life back by hitting the end cap with a hammer. This will loosen them up a bit until you change them. I have already done a few research on the parts and i'm gonna try spicer. (there is spicer,precision,neapco and oem nissan) the spicer part number you are looking would be 5-153x for the front (x2) and 5-1505x for the rear (x2) (if the ones on the rear driveshaft are shot too)... They cost about 1/3rd of the oem nissan I will will give them a try...Also, the spicer have a zirk fitting for lubrication , which nissan ones do not .. **update** : Spicer ujoint listed here are not the good ones. I ended up going with neapco : NEAPCO 1-449 for the front (which are greaseable) and the higher end 1-0029BF Brute Force series for the back. See complete story here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25609&st=0&p=481906&hl=neapco&fromsearch=1entry481906 S.