fleurys

Hey rod.. have a look here.... http://www.cdn-ntc.ca/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2339&start=0&hilit=bushing For buying them , I bought mine here : http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=part~ID=1998~Nissan~Pathfinder%204WD~241517 good ol rubber bushing... and they're running strong... The key is the installation...DO NOT TORQUE THE BOLTS until the truck is supporting his weight.. i'll be calling you in just a few bit for the other thing. S.

UNless there is absolutely no more grease in your balljoints, I doubt a metal against metal part can do that kind of noise....The first thing that came to mind reading the description was the strut bearing... which is made of plastic... this could definitely make that kind of noise....

A tsb is not a recall.... it's just a note for techs to better identify an issue... sorry, but you'll have to lay down the money.... or do it yourself... S.

pretty much yes.... on my part, I just did not wanted to drill any holes in my fender... What I like about this one is that when you have the filter opening opened + the second hole, the engine can actually pull more air and therefore have less restriction.... and having the buzzer and light security makes my water crossing a lot less stressful....

This is what I did... You'll be ok with water almost up to the windshield... I felt that this would be the absolute maximum I would be willing to go to... It took me and my friend about1 whole day to do...including the buzzer and light .... have a look here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25150&st=0&p=460747&fromsearch=1entry460747

Hey guys... you're giving false infos here... he has a 98.... there is no auto hub, or upper-lower balljoints... only one ball joint per side and only one control arm... folow what adamzan said.. just remove the snap ring and it will be easier if you have an helper to pull on the strut/hub assembly while you remove the balljoint....

yes I did and there is nothing there or even in my mitchell.... anyway, I guess I had a blonde moment last night because it was not the the alty but the battery! I do not know why I did not check the level of charging when the truck was running, but doing so this morning, just before starting the job, showed a nice 14.4 volt at the battery. Then when trying to start, the battery voltage would drop from 13 to 5 V. So I ended up walking to the store with my battery under my arm and got a new one. Considering that the old one lasted me almost 7 years, I decided to buy the same (Motomaster with 700 amp) at 100$... so a nice 20 minutes job instead of a 2-3 hours one.. I,m very happy and the truck is back online !

Hey guys...I need your help.... My alternator just went south on me a few minutes ago. So I will need to change the alternator tomorrow morning and want to know if it is possible to remove it from the top (engine bay) instead of the bottom... I have my big skid plate that is installed and would like to try to prevent from removing it etc... because I need to go back to work after this ...so if any of you have changed an alty with the later r50 (3.5), please let me know a small summary of the steps... right now, i'm thinking the following 1) remove battery 2) unscrew the alty belt tensionner and remove belt 3) somehow unscrew the alty and bring it from the top I have no idea if I need to remove the rad shroud etc.... so I need your help and experience on the ones that have done so that tomorrow morning I have the fastest and most effective way of changing it. Thank a lot in advance.... Steve.

yes

nope that's not what I meant. when I change the half-shaft I do not touch the balljoint... I really unbolt the 3 big bolts that attach the control arm to the frame.... I find it easier and less chance of damaging the ball joint.

1) jack the front, remove the 3 bolts of the lower control arm, remove the dust cap of the wheel hub, remove the snap ring of the axle, remove the 6 bolts of the half-shaft from diff flange, remove the half-shaft pulling towards the middle of the truck. easylly done in about 20 minutes or less. 2) once you see the price of the oem nissan shafts, you will probably go after market ... and if you do not trail with them, then no point of paying extra for nothing. If your shafts are still good though, you can also just replace the boots : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26677&view=findpost&p=492986 cheers.

you have to it the old fashion way : talk to a real person : 1-815-962-1411

If you want superior boot for the r50, there is something available.... read my post here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26677&view=findpost&p=492986

update : The code eventually re-appeared a few days later. I then got the help of one nissan tech that hangs out on another forum (bender) and he pointed me in the right direction. I learned that the fsm for your truck is not always the right one.... meaning, that even though I have a 2001, it seems that the ecu/programation is somehow from a 2002 because the p1131 code only started to exist in 2002. So I have a late 2001, early 2002... And this code was pretty easy to fix... a simple disconnect/reconnect of the green connector with some contact cleaner did the trick... I guess after my dip in high water, this connector did not like it... A big thank to bender on this one. here`s the picture of the connector location. Case Closed !

I know for canada, it is possible to import diesel engines... here's a story of a guy who made his on toy from a frontclip imported from france : story (in french) : story imported from here : http://www.4x4occas.com/

This is a great subject... Hopefully you will go through with it... When and if my engine dies, this is the way I want to go too... so good luck and I will be following this...

I do offer to have the window on the passenger side for the vq's and on the driver side for the vg. But because of the placement of the oil filter on the vg engine, I have been told that it is difficult to reach it anyway even without a plate...

I don't.... I pass my arm in the access window from the front to get to the oil filter...

they are even more important when wheeling cause I can jump around more aggressively when climbing steep stuff or deep ruts without the fear of killing my struts.... they prevent strut failure eventually if you wheel hard on the trails...

not sure if you mean "how do limiting straps works" or "is this setup working for you" ?? 1) limiting straps, limits the travel of your suspension just a tad so that it does not hit the maximum... So I cranked it between 1/4 and 1/2 inch before maximum extension 2) The top out has been eliminated. works very well

me too !! this is my cousin's garage.... I'm usually flat on my back in my driveway !

This one is long overdue... Here it goes... I decided last winter to buy what was needed to eliminate the strut top-out I was experiencing almost daily. The road from my house to my work are not in good shape and I wanted to so something about it before my strut disintegrate ! I tried last saturday to take a few pictures to better illustrate how I have decided to do it. There is other ways, but I like mine for different reasons. 1) I used adjustable clevis so I can move the adjustment of the strap if I need it or if I change the setup or suspension. Since At the time of doing this I knew I was going to add a spacer later in the year, I knew It would be a piece of cake to do so. If you have a fixed setup, then you need to either re-weld or change your straps... 2) I welded a plate on the inner fender of the pathy cause I feared the metal sheet of the pathy was not going to be strong enough for the long run if I just welded a small surface mount on it... So I welded a plate, then welded the surface mount on the plate, giving more strength and area to the mount. I bought my stuff at Pacific Custom ( http://www.pacificcustoms.com ) Great service and fast delivery, no mistakes...worth mentioning these days.. The parts I used are the following : 1) CHROME STEEL ADJUSTABLE CLEVIS FOR LIMITING STRAPS - MADE IN CHINA Part Number: AC510050C Price: $35.00 2)WELD ON FORGED MOUNT FOR LIMITING STRAP CLEVIS Part Number: AC510050CV Price: $10.00 3) BEARD 13 INCH LONG 2 PLY BLACK SUSPENSION LIMITING STRAP WITH 1/2 BOLT HOLES - MADE IN USA Part Number: RA17113 Price: $24.00 In my setup, a 13Inch strap was limit a bit and that's why you see the adjuster all the way to the minimum. But since I will be adding a spacer this winter, It will go down 1 inch and will be perfect. Be advised that straps do stretch a bit. I would recommend a 12inch for a regular pathy lifted with ac springs but no spacers. The bottom was made from a welded piece of steel that was bent a bit in order to have a direct line with the upper mount so that it pulls in straight line. Here's a few pictures... If you have questions, don't hesitate. ha yes, almost forgot... gone is the bang of top out.. now I don't hear anything. General view: Upper mount: Lower mount: Hopefully this will help clear the many questions you guys may have about this mod. S.

Since I have started making front skidplate with the oil filter window for the R50, many have asked me how the oil filter could come out without creating a mess. I tried explaining it but english not being my first language, I had a bit of difficulties finding the right words. I decided, since last saturday was a maintenance day for me, to take a bit more time and take some pictures to better show how it's done. Once you remove the access window, you will see that the oil filter is right there, a little higher then the window. Then, I usually use any piece of cardboard laying around and shape it in a funnel or half-pipe shape. I then insert it just under the oil filter. Once this is done, start slowly unscrewing the oil filter to let the overflow drip on the card board and into your oil bucket. The fact that the window access is big enough for a hand and the cardboard makes all the difference. After a few seconds, you can totally remove the oil filter, and wait for all the oil to drip out. Put back a new oil filter and you're done. This last picture is to show that you can do this without dropping one drop (those drops are not mine)

mmmmm.. I think this already exists... at least the front one.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22475

under the sub frame for the front, under the diff for the rear.