fleurys

SUCCESS ! RockFord has modified their boot fitment catalog.... you can see this now...

On a 1/4" steel, probably not to that point, maybe a bit les, but on a 3/16" steel, I suspect the same since I did the sledgehammer test between 1/4" alu and 3/16" steel... With that kind of size, I can only imagine the fun I would have removing a 200+ lbs steel skid...

Here they are... New pictures with the front skid welded to the mid one (after the gazoduc trail ripped apart my bolts threads from the sub frame). The welds are awfull as we tried with a rod instead of our usual mig method (using an aluminum spool), but at the end it holds...that's what's important... So I now have a full length skid that is bolted with only 6 bolts. I just removed it and put it back myself minutes ago to unbend a few spots that were creating noise vibration inside the cab. So I'm pretty happy after all to have used aluminum.. would not have been able to remove it and reinstall it like that alone if not alu.... using a hydraulic hand jack to hold it in place while I unscrew the bolts, it took me about 10 minutes to remove completely.. about 15 to put back. Here's the scratches and abuse it got in 2 trails...considering what it has protected, i consider it did it's job very well. That's it.. End of project for this one. Next project : limiting straps or if you want <anti-bang> straps

You're not gonna let us here with only one picture are ya? !!

You don't NEED straps... if you change the way you are driving... It worked for me for a few months... BUt the roads here in quebec are so badly maintained, that I was getting surprise by a pothole or bump and was toping out at least once a week.... just got fed up and bought the hardware... will post the install soon.

It happened to me too, but went the way of the nissan dealer.... You will probably need also to buy the rubber seal kit...if you pins seized, then water went in...mine was rusted and pitted and the pin had actually grow in size..because of the rust it was really stuck in there... Sorry I can;t help you with more...

If you are in the market for links, I would definitely buy the ones from tmorgan4... read on here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22652&view=findpost&p=490150

ok...20% of 115 (stock) = 23 + 115 = 138 lbs/inch so I would say near AC specs... probably will end up near OME....

really.... I did not know springs were rated in lbs over stock... always thought it was lbs/inch... in any case don't forget you have 2 in the rear, then following the logic, it would mean 800lbs more.... before buying anything, i would make sure to clear this up cause on there web site (camel4x4), they say they offer them in 4 or 5 different spring rate.... So if you are confident with there explanation, that`s all that counts... S.

whoh.... 440lbs over stock on the rear.... This seems like a lot more stiff than AC...like more than double... I guess for those with a tire carrier it might help, but f you do not have any then it might be pretty bad in the trail no ??

definitely moog... They cost more but I will be going with them on my next set... the ones I bought last year (japan), already started making some noise... http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/SouthAmerica/SteeringSolutions/Products/MOOG-Steering-Suspension/BallJoints/

Thanks Fueler... morpheus had came to the same conclusion a few weeks back... I don't know why all along I was assuming it was the front drive shaft....For me it's a mixed feeling news.... happy because I will have something to lessen the wear on the shafts, bad because now I have to find more money... hahaha

I feel your pain... I am also fed up to top out and have decided to make a move about it... It is not installed yet but here is what I have bought.... Just have to find the time to fabricate the part that will be weld on the control arm... everything I go from pacific customs Hopefully I will have time in June...

I had the same behavior with my crown vic long ago... The Starter is going bad.... Why it starts sometimes and why it does not is related to where the bendix on the starter stops when you're finish starting the car. I see that you brushes are probably used more at some places than other and sometimes they will be far apart just enough for not letting the current pass, then after a couple of tries they will... Personally, I would change the starter and be done with it. S.

Pictures with marks on them will come...I have put some nice one on it last weekend... As for the windows, I'm more convinced now than before that it was the best idea because.... last weekend trail, stripped the other bolt that was holding it in the front.... The skid still hang in there, but now I have decided to weld the 2 plates together at the sub-frame junction. This way, it will hold it's structure better and the whole assembly will distribute the force when it starts to bend or gets a hit. So it will hold from 4 main bolts directly in the frame plus 5 bolts on the front skid... It will be removable as a whole, therefore the windows are now very welcome.... :-) Thanks for comments everyone.

Well, the plate is installed and I never had so much problems in one project than this one !!! I broke 2 tap, 1 drill bit and strip 1 skidplate bolts (big one). On top of that I had a shoulder tendonitis. Now try drilling 2 inch thick aluminum blocks from underneath the truck in your driveway with a screwed shoulder... After the 5th hole I was done... Boy did I swear making this one... I was still able to finish it just in time to my weekend-long trail in the gazoduc which I post some picture soon. I can only say that the skidplate was VERY usefull.... no regrets... Here's a few pictures... BEFORE: AFTER: With the windows open: I also ended up welding the plate to the blocks.. I do not have any picture of it yet but I will try to take some. I did this cause I did not feel that the plate was attached enough on the blocks. So It actually takes only 4 bolts to remove the plate and it works very well. I can access the block bolts through holes that I drilled in the plate.. I will try to post more picture soon. In the end , it's a good first try... I will definitely do a version 2 of it in the future with some bends in the right places so that I lose less clearance at some places, but it will do for now... S.

R50 rules....Simon said it

Update.... Was finally able to do more work on this last weekend and tonight. At last there was a nice day on the last weekend and was able to cut my aluminum sheet from the plastic template. I have decided to just go along with the one that I had and not redo another one symmetric. The reason being i'm doing a big trail this weekend and since I'm gonna try some new parts of the trail, I wanted to be plated. Now, I'm realizing that such a project with hand tools and a shed is starting to be difficult. I cut the plate with a handsaw and grinder. This makes it hard to have perfectly straight lines etc... So for now, this plate is far from perfect but I'm very happy to have it made. Now what will I do in the future is still up in the air as it is quite difficult. I guess doing this in a fully equipped shop with hydraulic bender,cutter etc. would make the work alot more enjoyable... For the mounting points, I have decided to go with blocks of aluminum 2.5 X 3 X 2 (W x L x H). They are made from 2 pieces of 1 inch aluminum plate then mig welded together. The transmission cross member is the lowest point on our trucks and the frame rails are exactly 2 inches higher. So once the plate is stiffed on the crossmember, I will screw in 4 blocks in the frame and attach the skid on the blocks. The blocks are not hollow so they will not bend when side pulling force is apply on them when the truck hits a rock. Here's a few pictures.

Good idea... I just finish writing the sales person that sold me the boots. He has pictures and full story... The ball is in their camp now. !

hahaha.. Tks... ...(hey don't start another wd21 vs r50 war hahahaha)

Well, I finally took 1 hour of my time and assemble my first cv half-shaft with new boots made from thermoplastic. Thermoplastic is a blend from plastic and rubber that can withstand higher and colder temperature. It also resists better to puncture and tear. The rockford thermoplastic boots are made from a patented blend called santoprene made by monsanto company : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santoprene My adventure started when one of my boot teared. Went to check what was available and choices were not that great. I checked the ones from a pinzgauer which also has an ifs, and his were made from thermoplastics. At the time I did not know anything about this material. My friend told me that they were very resistant and seeing him going to places I would not dare (at least not at the time :-) ), I beleived him and started to learn about the stuff. My research brought me to RockfordCV ( http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm ) which is the only company I found that carries cv boots for nissan pathfinder. Unfortunately, they did not have anything for R50 (96-2004). They only had boots for 87-89 and 90-95. Not stopping there, I decided to do some reverse part number searches. I looked at the EMPI catalog for part numbers for the boots of 90-95 pathfinder vs 96-04...no luck.... then I hit the jackpot... The 87-89 pathfinder EMPI cv Boots part number are the same than for a 96-04 ! Bingo... Called rockford cv and ordered 2 sets of their 87-89 boots. (part number : 166-21 and 166-23). I decided i was going to take the plunge and see. The boots are about 11-13$ each. I decided to rebuild my OEM nissan shaft with them instead of rebuilding the EMPI crap (that barfed out it's grease 4 days after I installed it!).. I trust a lot more the oem nissan even though there is some surface rust on it, I feel more confident with them.. They fit like a glove and have a nice tight fit around the cv. Was made to go there ! So here you have it : the first (I think) R50 half-shaft with thermoplastic boots. For now they will not go on my truck just yet. I'm keeping them for spare until I put my front strut spacers which will put the cv at more angle. This should be a good test. All pictures here : https://elstevo3.smugmug.com/Rockford-cv-boot Foreground = rockford (santoprene) background = EMPI (shiny (crap) neoprene) You can see the difference with the material. The thermoplastic is a lot less shiny and a lot more stiff. It is also noticeably thicker.

Hey Terry, check your PM when you get a chance...

no, no... You still have to use your shifter like before... Hubs only link the wheel to your axle (half-shaft)... it has nothing to do with 4hi or 4lo.... When your hubs are locked, then if you go in 4wd, the power from the TC going through your front diff then to your front axles will get to your wheels. If you disengage your hubs, it's like disconnecting your wheels from the axles... power will travel the same road but will die in your hubs, therefore not reaching your wheels... hope it's clearer now...if not, I'll let someone else try to explain as my english is not my main language...sorry. S.

If you don't have the button then you have the tx-10 TC... You're good to go without worries.... You don't change anything to your way you engage 4hi (well of course if wont do anything if your hubs are not locked... but you won't damage anything...) S.

I could not find any mud tires for the size you wanted but did find a alot for one size bigger 245/70r17 This means the tire would measure 30.5'" instead of your current 29.5" Now since these new ones would not be wider than your old ones, it would not cause any problems with the struts in the front and fender flares on the rear ar full flex. I'm pretty confident that these would work no problem for you. After all, it only really makes 1/2" of more tire to fit... So I cannot be 100% but would be willing to put some money on it ! :-) Pick you poison : http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?skipOver=true&width=245/&ratio=70&diameter=17&x=12&y=12 Use the selector on the left side to only see the Off-Road Maximum Traction. should be 5 of them...