MY1PATH

good answer! yes, there is a star wheel in both the full drum and the disc since the disc still uses a mini drum for parking. the FSM states for both types of brakes to ajust untill it drags (just barely) and then back off 3 clicks

yes, but as I've seen on N4W once locked and geared new weak links appear. CV's.... and stretching the drive chain inside the TX10 esp since the newer rigs run a narrower chain. Hell even my 20yr old pathy had stretched the chain some with no gears and no locks just moderate wheeling and some jumping lol(jumps will do it in a hurry lol) and the chain is like $300+ ...If I ever do gears, I have considered dropping the extra coin on an ATLAS box since its fully gear driven and guaranteed for life.

were talking about coolant temps not combustion temps. just about every street driven vehicle out there (there are few exeptions) will fall into the 170-210 range. lager displacement and american (design) engines tend to be a little higher and smaller foreign engines seem to be about middle. I don't know much about diesel but this much applies to almost all vehciles; If the correct and proper functioning thermostat is installed the coolant will bypass the radiator anytime its too cold thus allowing proper temps anyway(as long as the radiator is staying above 160) and this will happen above warm up temps so the fuel ratio and perforance will be uneffected. another good guage is to let it keep the needle near the 1/2 way mark (if your needle is accurate) or near where it used to sit before the e-fan.

smart ass questions get smart ass answers. and I belive search ettiquette has been covered before lol JK thanks for using my post as a sampe I actually thought I was letting the person down because I didn't have the link ready. (I broke my main computer and the POS I was on doesn't surf very well)

the mounts are all the same Its just the gas tank clearance that may be differant. if its level with the bottom of the frame rail it will not clear your fuel tank. I think it has to be down about 3-4" IIRC.

well one example is that there is a sensor inside the carbon canister, and EVERY TIME my buddy gets is 3.3 X in a puddle or in the mud it gives a CEL. The emissions systems are more restrictive which dampens the power even more and it has a habit of running rich and sucking gas every time it thinks the emissions are too high. (unburnt fuel is less harmful than Hydrocarbons, nox emissions and co levels) it runs fine off the 3.0 ecu so why try to make things more compilcated?

go onto 4x4parts discussion board and search Chevyman_57 he has a very good writeup. I would link it to ya but this is not my primary computer.

you should be just fine if you dial it in to keep your coolant in the 175-190 window (your goal is 180) enjoi

most learing-type ecu like ours are capable of compensating for +/- 10%-15% in displacement. hell me and a budy were talking about trying to run a vg30i of the z24i ecu since the TB is the same lol. (maybe not as likely) anyway talk about lack of tuneablity and loss of power thats exactly what you get with the 3.3 ecu. theres too much crap holding it back. I've even heard nissan mechanics say the vg33 is a terrible platform in stock form because of all the crap that went arround it compared to the 3.0.

my 89 xe (sport package) has the holy kind. It got pushed in on a few places but its still holding.

not centering... how tight did you get the 7/8" bolts? (40-45ftbls, go 40 then turn till the cotter pin will slide in) the sperical bushings on the hoohaa may need to break in? aligments are recomended any time a front end part is changed

Good,you keeps the 2 little fingers on the shaft that hold that top screw intact.(pinion height ajuster) they like to break when ppl try to beat the arms off.

yeh, these trucks need beefier pullers that don't flex or break. u made sure not to use a fork or hammer to get the arm off right?

? are you saying thats what I should do? or are you on a wrong thread? neither of those will lean out a mixtre. not to mention, I already have both... I was thinking more along the lines of conroling the %of air that goes by the MAF passage in the side like installing a large set screw in place of one of the plugs on the tb and calling it the mixture screw. or placing a mesh over the air passage under the injector cap(leads to MAF) to slow down the air in the passage. the idea is that the egine takes in the same amount of air but the MAF can be make to think its taking in less and thus the lean out the mixture. I'll need to get an Air/Fuel meter because it might only be rich @ idle in which I'll just leave it alone....

Nope! Intake MAY get louder. this is more typically seen in the higer rpms and with more agressive cams. A cam as mild as mine should not make it sound like I have a supercharger. the dried up vacum line for my stove pipe door wouldn't stay on making a loud hiss under the air box... line 3 fixed, Idle is allot smoother and I can hear everything under the hood again.... buzzing of the MSD box, MSD coil & cap the lack of sound from the new lifters broken in with lots of ZDDP and a good 2krmp run-in sounds like my T-belt is a little tight (I was only able to twist it about 80-85 degrees) I'm sure it will quiet down as it breaks in. all seems to be well, still smells a little rich. but I have a few Ideas in mind to lean it out.

AGAIN OCTANE IS resistantce to detonation thru a slower burn. your mpgs go down because your gas is not burning fast enough.

on the contrary, for our purposes (not buiding high rev race cars) the 3.0 intake is better on the 3.3. The runners on the 3.0 are already almost too big and the 3.3's are slightly larger. putting the slightly smaller runners on the 3.3 will improve air charge velocity (pronouced torque) in the lower rpm range and will still breathe plenty well in the higher rpm. Now that you have (hopefully) decided to keep the 3.3 manifold. there really isn't much point to adding the 3.3 thottle body and maf sice the maf needs to be re-wired anyway. You are planning on running the 3.3 on the 3.0 ecu right?

and I wish I could try them Far from it, the JC Tbars were actually 4 bars. (2 bars, 1 short & 1 long end to end on each side) this created a varible rate or progressive rate Tbar. the short bars were stiffer to prevent bottoming and the long bars were softer to maintain a more comfortable ride. I think they are the first and only progressive rate Tbar I have ever seen.

not all engines like those platnum and irdium plugs. I have always had best results with standard V-powers in my pathy.

the 3.3 heads use the same internals but are of a more efficent casting. And they have 10mm studs which you will be thanking if your tryig to put a turbo on it. the 3.3 heads will go on any vg block but if it goes on a block that was or sitll is a 3.0 the water jacket holes in the head gasket need to be walked a litte to line up with both passages.

don't forget water in a spray bottle for this test. it will make any poor connections more appearant . my MSD box, coil and cap all emit a same fast High frequency buz. I'm sure my stock setup did it too just not as fast or as loud.

not necessarily. more agressive grinds may be able to get the pathy over 125 but its off ilde power would suck. I have seen cams so agressive that if you are not agressive with the gas it will stall out trying to get rolling. I've tested the stall-ability (this grind will work on automatics) and a few times I've put in the clutch to start it only to find out it hadn't yet died lol Lol I passed your work the other day and thought about stopping by but it was 5ish so I though you might be gone already... but yeh can try to come by some time. The sound is not as obnoxoious now that I have corrected the timing some but u can still tell its differant once it warms up and the idle drops.

I wouldn't say allot of anything just yet.... yes I did set my new speed record, and yes it seems I can use higer gears @ lower RPMs Like 4th @ 1500rpm (under 35mph) to cruise on flat grade with no groaning or lugging sound unless I try to accelerate too hard. I'm still messing with timing and it smells rich. the intake sounds loud enough for me to think theres a hole under the air box so I gotta check all my lines... all and all Its still too early for solid results but I will keep you posted.

or you could split the calipers, clean all the standing gunk out, check the seals and then bleed fresh dot # into the whole system...

I belive the 90-95 has the rear bolts for the 4 door where as the 86-90 includes the rare 90 2door why are you going to BL a SAS? I suppose it makes things easier to work on / reach but other than that all the lift you need can be added via the sas...