MY1PATH

My uca's came with welding slag beads stuck underneath the powdercoat. some of the coating peeld when I chiped off some of the slag. Powdercoat doesn't peel unless the metal was not properly preped thus not allowing a proper bond of the coating. No zerks added to wd21 UCA'sdespite their FULL KNOWLEDGE FOR YEARS that their bushings squeak unless greased well, they won't admit it. Their wd21 UCA's hit and dent any shocks that are wider than theirs and they are FULLY AWARE again FOR YEARS, they won't admit it. And they wash their hands of you as soon and they print the shipping label. I can't find the thread anymore but if you buy used calmini from another person and then try to buy a few new parts to fix it up (aka missing sas parts) they label you a liar and a theif and cuss at you on the phone... On the bright side they are by far the beefyest UCA's and if you get yours cut for the shocks, zerks added, use energy formula 5 (keeps it quiet for about 1year) and have them blasted and re-coated(properly)--- then you will have the best UCA's that would never give you anymore issues....

Get a sensor pipe, cut about 0.75" out of your upper hose where you wnat to locate it and splice it in. It will literally be a pipe with a threaded hole in the side you could polly grab a nut and have an exhaust shop make you one for $20 or less.

Last page, I've never seen that rear bumper before. Looks pretty cool.

2 or more coats of herculiner would soak up the sound too. (or other thick bedliner material)

I almost did this mod, took all the stuff out of the donor and everything.... ...then I found out I didn't have my Wallet @ the JY. I never got back to it. center belt will still be a lap belt. I cannot remember if there are pre-existing anchors on the 2dr for the sholder reel and the loop for the strap up top so you may want to peel back your interior and look before you go further. Reel ends for the side belts will need to be removed from under the seats and the recievers from the sides of the seats (you can keep your stock seats) You will need the recivers from the donor (on webbing instead of metal tabs) and everything attached to the reel belt on the donor. Your interior pannels will have to be modified or removed and the donor sholder belt panels will not fit. I'm sure there is more but at least you have a direction. Keep us posted if you go thru with it. I may or maynot try again some day.

It will not list on the label. Yes, you can use a dual spec oil since it still meets the requirements of GL-4. I belive royal purple is dual spec. In addition to redline; sta-lube and amsoil also make a GL-4 75w90...

I'll stick with my homebuilt stanza guge faces and good old fashiond analong technology thankyou.

Body work, part of my job. No, we don't bondo our flying airplanes but we do bondo our museum planes and we have to repair other things like support equipment when idiots crash it lol... small dents and contours, use bondo big dents or flexible areas, we use whats called epibond I don't know what the outside equivelent is but suppose the short fiber bondo would work holes and other stuff, full on glass patches If it doesn't have a smooth resin finish (glass only) always use a good filler primer. this Is a heavy thick primer that sprays like mud, designed to fill the porosity of bodo and bad fiberglas jobs. it can even fill smaller dents to be sanded. sand the filler smooth and then cover it with sealer primer (your regular primer) and now its ready for topcoat.

UM... thats EXACLY what Redline MT90 is. RED Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil Hece my whole drunken right oil rant on post #2 BTW I read this the next day, and its so true lol

I have always said the cream of the crop is the rare 1990 2dr MPFI (vg30e) I think there may have been only 500 or so in the usa. That being said I grew up with my 1989 2dr TBI (vg30e) 1owner (dad) and then me. Well cared for and only a few headaches but nothing I couldn't learn to handle or possibly even prevented if I had been raised working on vehicles here and there.(good thing to pass on to your kids) I say it all depends on the rig you get a 95 4dr with 15 yrs neglect might not even hold a match to my 20yr old rig. but if somone even so much as did regular oil changes and didn't drive it on the beach or in the rust belt it then the tables will be the opposite. If I had a 1990-93 4dr in perfect shape, 235's then add e-fan, headders(+mpg mods only) ... I'd keep it stock height and just make it our family car. (child seats are easier with 4drs right?

The second one is for right hand drive (RHD). So if your steering wheel is on the wrong side or you have an idler arm on the left instead of a box then you need the second one.

It was about $55 a gallon but it seems it has gone down to $49.95. shipping really isn't so bad and they send it out right away.

whats your coolant ratio? If you are having heat issues or are expecting heat issues this may be the culprit... "coolant" itslef isn't really that thermaly efficent. the reason we use it is becuse It prevents 3 bad things, Boil over, freezing and corrosion. Its just called "coolant" because we mix it with water to cool the engine. 50/50 coolant/water = normal 75/50 coolant/water= will hold more heat, some people do this in the winter becuase the engine warms up faster and holds heat better for their heater 100% coolant= this has been known to overheat some engines just beacause somone thought it would be better to just run straight coolant. 25/75 coolant/water= very efficent but may have boil/ expansion problems, corrosion might be a concern too for long term use. engine may start up dead cold after as little as an hour of sitting. 100% water= don't do it. additives like water wetter etc. some of them work, use the right one with a 50/50 mix and your effiencey will increase. nissans are overcooled, i ran my truck on the hottest day of the year with no fan shroud and it didnt even run hot at all, the radiator is pretty big and has a nice thickness to it. you could probably run it with a radiator half the size and it will be fine there is some truth to this, years ago I had a radiator so dirty that you could lay it flat and puddle water on the outside. my temps averaged 3/4 back then.... (a new radiator revealed my thermostat had failed because I couldn't get it to warm up after lol)

do you know how maytimes I have left an oil cap on my air box only to find it melted to my exhaust some time later? It wansn't untill a secret santa here gave me a nice blue anodized one that I stopped for getting it. I polly had enough spent on the cheap plastic ones to buy you and me both a some of those billet aluminum caps lol. you'll be fine as long as nothing fell in. and really, what could fall in? a piece of lint from your hood liner? that wont hurt, anything else?

2 very important things before I explain anything. 1) your transmission fluid may stay in there for 2 years or more, so unlike running cheap motor oil you actually have to rely on it for that long 2) a new transmisson may run you over $2,500. a rebuild may cost close to the same and used may be cheaper but whatever you do tack on another 8-12+ hours for the combined effort of supporting the vehicle and removing the t-bars to get the tranny swapped.(thats allot of labor if your paying for it.) now for the explaination, GL4 is a specifactaion for the contents of the oil. this spec does not allow for various phosphours that can harm our brass/bronze parts inside our transmissions(cyncros) GL5 does not place a limit on these elements so it may or may not contain them but after reading the above, do you really want to take the chance? think about it this way, lactaid milk is still milk but they screen for the lactose that harms those who are intolerant. do you really wanna give them regular milk just because its cheaper? If you said yes I'm never coming over for a glass of milk and niether will my nissan. what I do... 2 gallons of MT90 from redline oil website. (it is 75w90 GL4 made specific for our type transmissions) you should be like $110 or maybe 120 shipped... (well worth it esp in cold climates it shifts soooo smoooth) I think its 5.3 qt in the transmission and you can put another 2.3 qt in the t-case which leaves you with about 0.4qt left over when you are done.

lol, I wasn't sure if you meant ABS when you said plastic but I guess you didn't. there are many types of plastic...

3"? Really? I don't know about diesel's but petrol engines can benifit performance-wise from having a longer intake tube (given the right diamer) because it increases air-charge. I would think 2"-2.5" would be better. Not to mention, @ the front of the fender there's only about 2.5" max or 2.25 if your making a bend with tubing. .025" wall ABS tubing is pretty tough, then again I don't pan on smashing my fender so bad it crushes the pipe inside. for the full snorkel running up the side, the A pillar should support it pretty good and its angled so branches and stuf would be more glancing than just a dead 90* impact. I'd say if you break a well posiond ABS snorkely you'll prolly crack a window too. I think arb/safari snorkels are made of ABS too... a freind of mine who wheels in utah said he's seen those get rolled onto and they've bounced back better than the body work when the vehicle is righted. But yes, I think a nice brushed steel snorkel with clear coat up the A pillar would look awesome too.

nice, did you ask about progressive springs?

I really like that filter housing. I may consider something like that if I ever go EFI. anway I though I'd attach some of my partial snorkel pics for ideas.... I screwed 2 drains together face to face with the fenderwall in between. on the inside I have a 2" 60* elbow with some pipe sticking out of it. the stock tbi intake pipe fits snugly over it if you cut the last 3" off. the fender side I saved donwn a 90* short elbow(hard to find) for the turndown so it has about .3" clearance of the fender. the U is a 90* street elbow and a 90* long elbow. the last bend is another 90* street elbow. I used a rubber hammer to contour the boxed section of the fenderwall for the pipe I ran a hose clamp thru a fuel line(dampening and protects the sheet metal) and then thru a hole in the box. I slid a 2" flexible union over the pipe for more dampening and protection where the clamp goes over it. permentant unions are bonded with ABS cement. removable parts(just in case...) were sealed with red RTV the U is also meant to accmodate for some water as gravity pulls it to the bottom. No the water won't just sit in the U forever but it will get drawn in at a slower rate hopefully slow enough to prevent hydrolocking. Maybe slow enough to do a good valve cleaning an nothing more.

Link fixed. Gains, all depends on conditions/ atmosphere. I wouldn't call it gains either, the power is there its just being stolen by a belt-fan Water crossings- No more bogging from your belt fan hitting water. Belt-fan steals 20+hp? Idono, allot! you can feel it when you hit the water. Fanclutch seized - fan locked on 100% pulley speed seals 12-15 HP? you'd feel and hear the differance Heat 95F+ - (85-90% pulley speed max) Belt-fan steals 7-10HP? on a hot day after sittin in the sun @ a 10 min light with the a/c on HI, you might feel it give back power up as you cool black down and you will hear it. Cold- (15-20% pulley speed) 3-4HP? your not gonna notice a thing Electric FAN- start up alternator load is enough to squeak my 2" pulley* running load only slightly drops engine rpms from idle. goin down the road I don't notice a thing when the fan kicks on. Oh and hear the differance this fan has a low pitched humm that blends in pretty well. if you pop the hood you may hear the woosh too lol. I have heard many other high pitched whiny fans even inside the vehicle enough to know I'd rather have the one I have because the sound doesn't get on my nerves *2" is extremely small so not enough belt wrap. stock is 3"

x2 thats pretty much it. A used set of pathfinder AT tires might do you good. A new set would do you better and aren't to pricey either. Discount tire sells the new ones and I have heard amzing stories about ppl talking the prices down.

I might also add the the black magic 180 has and nicely contoured shrould that covers roughy 90% of my radiator Amazingly after a short start up draw of 36 amps(all motors draw more when they start) it only draws 18 amps while running. 4x4 review did a good aticle on it compareing it to its previous model which was also pretty decent http://www.4x4review.com/Reviews/ProductReviews/Electrical/FlexALiteBlackMagicXTreme/tabid/366/Default.aspx

whats really shaking, to me, is that just 3 days ago I was thinking I would get to meet him wheeling @ evans. neither of us ended up going but when I think about it like that, it hits home a little more. if you know what I'm trying to say... Online here I thought he was a good guy. I am sad the loss. additonaly, If he had any military service in his past he may be eligible for military honors at his funeral. If his family choses this (and if he was prior air force) I would kindly do the honor of the service.

Ok, my specific point of view. Save up the extra dough and go for the Flex-A-Lite Black Magic Exteme 180. It will come in a kit with instuctions, mounting brackets, thermostat contol with built in realy, temp probe... Everything you need and more. set it to your key, set it to your temps add a switch if you want to or make it come on with your A/C. its all there. Now the fan it self, More air and better dirctional draw than your belt fan could ever do at ilde. Hell this thing will bolw you away. I've had mine in for over a year, its been in water, its been in sub zero and rough driving it still lives. Faster warm ups, more consistant temps. It is, one of the best purchases I think I made for the pathfinder.