MY1PATH

the interlock bypasses the clutch switch in M/T and I beeve the park position switch in an A/T, thus allowing you to start the vehicle without pusing in the clutch or having it in park. The purpose is to allow you to start if you have stalled (say in a rut) without disengaging the drive train (which could cause you to roll back or lose ground). you should be able to press it and turn the key. If you have to hold it and turn the key, you need to check your A/T relay fuse but I think its called someting eles on the fuse panel. BE CAREFUL and know your surroundings using this feature will cause the vehicle (if in gear/ drive) to move the instant you turn the key because the starter will be turning not just the engine but every thing else attached to it too. hope that helps, I've also used it in a parking garage when somone parked 6" from my driver door(they folded my mirror to do it) I got in the passenger seat put it in 1st, hit the button turned the key and pulled it outa gear/e-braked it when I was out far enough to open the door. Yes I coulda crawled over the center console but this was more entertaining. Our nissans are so versetile aren't they?

abcnissanwholesale.com lists it as an "air vent" on the rear quarter panel glass. 73.55 NEW sellect the collisoin catalog and your year/make/model and use the drill down on the left side; quarter panel>Glass>air vent>rear jy may be cheaper I might be going this weekend you want me to look? left or right?

good question. I soppose it would depend on driving conditons (dusty) and your filter. last I cleaned mine it only left a few very thin black marks on the cotton swab and I don't think I'd been done b4. My guess would be every few years wouldn't hurt. anyone?

on those bushings you may want to inspect the cups they nest into(keeps them centered) if they are worn the rod will dance arround and elongate the hole. If its split or gone(in my case) weld a bearing race or thick piece of 2"OD tubing arround the bushing to keep it centered

+ ligher means less holdin us down when we take off & try and leave you heavy 4doors in the dust

high rpms @ 65-70 is quite normal, the stock final drive ratio is 4.3 and 4.6. 4x4parts.com sells 4.1 gears if you want better mpg, lower rpm on the higway and maybe higer top speed but most ppl go the other way so they can turn bigger tires. Yeh, these are kinda slow, if it feels like its falling off over 75-80 than its normal. If that bugs you the most benificail thing I reccomend is swapping out a 3.3L (same engine w/ a bigger bore and cheap and easy to find) form one of the later model nissans but if your only looking for small gains, headders and full exhuast should pep it up a little.

my mpg increased after I did headders, the challenge being gentler on the gass after you have them. try filling @ half tank, the existing gass has allot more surface are to evaporate from once you go past half tank. tire preassure @ 34 maybe change your o2 sensor and cat those got me improvements too. I get over 20mpg higway (other minor mods; HEI coil, K&N drop in...) and 13-16 arround town depending on if its the 20mph military base housing area or the town arround it @ 35ish(people normally going 40). oh! heres a good one! are your front hubs stuck in the locked position? jack the front end and spin each wheel if the other wheel & front drive shaft move then your hubs are stuck. thats allot of extra rotating weight turing CV's, differential and drivshaft that should otherwies be sitting stationary when driving in 2wd. as far as calling it heavy... I disagree, the 2doors weigh in @ under 3600lbs and the 90-95 4 doors are only 3800lbs stock. thats light for IMO. ALSO; feel free to post an intro in the "new people start here" so we know more about ya!

them's fight'n words...

You guysl 'll hate this; I use which ever 5 qt(2 oil changes) jug cost the least when I'm @ schucks + 1qt of lucas oil(each change), I think it was shell this time....

HA! thats an Idea. Just don't use tradespro I have shattered like 5 of those crappy sockets 3 of them exploded while doing my friends headders and only one of them was under the force of a bar the rest were in a regular rachet. I can picture my pathy new... I was 5 and it was dad's brand new truck!

I think thats what the original poster was going after in the first place. lol 92, I think I'm gonna get rid of the covers, Winters coming and I'll prolly never gonna leave a back shift which means 90% of my driving will be done in the dark (covers removed) I also have taill light covers that have never been instaled. I'll say 15 for the front cause they're used and the edges are slightly modified (to fit across the hb grille, prolly won't notice the differance on the pathy grille) and 30 for the rear +shipping

After getting a break job, if it sitll don't work just take off the the aft cable going to the weels and have a shop trim it and crimp new ends on it. costs less than a new cable and won't stretch in 20 years (since it already has) so you won't have this problem again.

clinmbing the food chain... were doomed. LOL jk Keep up the good work, I like the comunity we have.

I got some 14x1.5 in a 60mm length @ a local bolt specialty shop (TACOMA SCREW, has every fastener the hardware store doesn't) I got these because my Alignment shop said they would feel more comfortable getting my lifted vehicle to spec if they had a few more threads in the frame.

Thanks, thats A neat article. I didn't know about the cardboard. however, the Fram Tough gaurd (what I use) is actually on the reccomended list while the other 2 FRAM models are on the avoid list. Being that the tough guard is on the lower $$ range but still on the reccmended list and always available @ my parts store, unlike some of the others ,I will continue using @ my own risk. Boy that guy had allot of time on his hands! and now I know what defantly not to buy and why.

9004 might be called HB1 over there anyway thats what your American counterparts run. I been lookin around for aftermaket terrano lights on ebay (with no luck) so I can run the PIAA Plazma Ion H4 bulbs>

Yes B, I have only compared Thorleys thus far. If someone wants to throw up a set of pace-setters out of the box for compairison they can. the vehicles used in each test were differant and so results vary. Some show very dramatic differances becsue they used very differant setups between the long and short tubes. My favorite one is HERE because they tried to elimnate as many variables as possible keeping to same brand headder w/ same diameter primaries & collectors. (both thorley headders have 1.5" primaries & 2.25" collectors) in their mustang dyno sheet the long tubes started thier pull maybe 10ftlbs higer and lasted over 500rpm longer before starting a much more gradual drop. The short tuebes peaked about 10ftlbs higer but climbed steeper and fell off ALLOT faster. I would prefer the flatter tq band better because you can't always keep it at peak so way not aim for a greater consitancy of high tq rather than a short but higer peak. Do keep in mind esp w/ 3.0 or 3.3 opening the exhaust too much after the headder may undo this. I have heard several cases of the pacesetter Y pipe fot pathfinders having a risticive hole (as in coin sized) where they meet becuse somone didn't ream it after welding @ the factory. I have also heard tell that the pacesetters are less bitlle under impact whic makes me think I will replce my thorley Y pipe so that it dents rather than cracks if I hit a rock. Other than that I have now knowledge of length compairison or compatibility but I assume it would be similar. If your talking about thorley yes, however the long tubes were designed for the 86-89 so they migh have the years mixed up. if you get a 90-95 header for your 88 rember even tho they bolt to the heads, you will need to have the correct port added for your PAIR system well as add a stove pipe for your airbox. this can be made by taking of a pice of 1.5" pipe 2-3" long and cutting a curve or V shape into the end 90deg from the v drill a hole big enough for a radiator clamp. the v shoud nest well on your primary in whatever angle suits you and the radiator clamp will hold it on. bam! you have stove pipe for your hot air pickup for ~$2 @ the parts store.

on the subject of terrano parts; TNZ do your headlights use the h4 or the 9004 bulb?

"mirrors sideways; who cares whats behind. Just like always..." -Passenger by Deftones

dude those are the @!*%! I'M half inclined to buy them and paint em black!

yeh, your just odd. lol

BRINING this up form the dead beacuse Doing a search this was the most relevant thing I could find about Thorley Headders I made a discovery today that I guess #1 already pointed out but I thought others would be interested not to mention I HAVE PICTURES! The long tubes extend almost all the way to the bottom of the transmission before meeting the Y pipe and the shorties meet the Y pipe near the firewall maybe 10-12" farther down than the stock manifolds did.I also know for a fact that both models bolt up to all VG30 and VG33 heads. DTE-464-1 for 86-89 pathfinders are _LONG TUBE HEADDERS and have 2 emissons ports(EGR and PAIR) for VG30i and a "stove pipe" (intake heater) for the hot air pickup. DTE-464-2 for 90-95 pathfinders are SHORT TUBE HEADDERS and have an emissons port(EGR ONLY) for VG30e. Why does this matter you might ask? well google long tube headders vs short tube and you should find several sights with test results proving that longtubes provide a flatter Torque Band which means more consitant torqe @ any rpm. I'm glad I have long tubes! The Long tubes will go on the Vg30e just fine. you will need to plug one of the emissions ports and adapt the other to your existing EGR. The "stove pipe" can be cut off or just ignored. HERES MY LONGTUBES & MaritimeMan's Shorties. You can see the diffrance! I wish I had seen this info b4 doing my Headders, the outcome would have been the same but I still wish I'd seen it. I hope someone else finds this useful!

B, Pezzy, 88pathoffroad and anyone else involved; Thanks for helping to keep our comunity what it is!

working on ariplanes, we are quite anal about corrosion here. there is not much that corrodes without our knowledge and it doesn't get very far. one thing we do is apply sealant to every thing. anywhere that 2 pieces are srewed, bolted or riveted together there its sealant; in between and somtimes an extra bead arround the edge. The selant does more than waterproof, it prevents dirt from entering and reduces vibration that would cause dirt and friction of parts to wear down other protective coatings such as paint. That being said, I reccomend after yall get your fenders repaired/replaced using sealant when installing the flares. A few tips on aplication to keep it clean and neat looking; -tape off the outline of the flare first so it doesn't squeeze out onto the rest of the fender and tape the outside edge of the flare too -use a portion of a saw blade (9-15 teeth per inch reccomended) to "rake" the sealant once its applied, this ensures even thickness coverage and reduces exess "squeeze out" after part is installed. -install flares and remove tape carefully as it will have exess squeez out on it. -unlike aircraft, a regular tube of clear RTV silicone and a caluk gun from the hardware store can be used for this. I'm gessing 2 9" tubes for all 4 flares.

I'm also over 210k on my 89. I use 1qt lucas oil every change, it keeps them quiet until about the time I need 2 change it again.