MY1PATH

well thats a location I have not seen or thought of for the oil filter... maybe rotate it so that it wont drip as much(on your headders and newly painted valve covers) when you change the filter.

I'd call daystar and see if they have a spacer of that style for your specific diameter. they don't have any specifically for nissan but another vehicle may run the same diameter spring.

you do not want to use those spacers, theres better ways of doing things

i dono.... were designed to fit the JGC pigtail that you cut off? or the other side? could work if its not for the pigtail side.

are you running just colant or colant+water? and how old is your water pump?

the tsb acutally states 1.5L aditional oil= 5.1L total

there have been other cheap intake mods done on here that open up the air box this is the first I've seen of the deck plate. I like it, it could work like a snorkel bypass too!

ok that explains it. my haynes does HB and Path but in some pics It just says 2wd only or 4wd only, I doesn't state which vehicle.

I thought it was funny. I might start doing that in good traditon jk

if it is realy bad I'd say its time to swap in a vg33; pretty much the same engine but with a bigger bore and can usually be found for less than 2g and under 70k miles. why go with a new stock motor when you can go 10% larger for the same price?

that screw is the fast idle screw. now, sanding in front facing the vehicle look about 1-2" behind that screw. there should be a screw facing your passenger fender. It sits just below your throttle cable bracket. pic...linky so the screw facing you in the bottom of the pic is the one you turned. and the srew head above that one in the pic, facing slightly up and left, is the one you need 2 turn. its head is pointing at where the cable bracket would be if it were installed.

4x4 evo & 4x4 evo 2 by terminal reality. I got addicted to the 2nd one for a while, the gfx are kinda weak but they have frontiers & nissans and you can race for stillen and install a sitllen prototype supercharger.... and other teams have their bonuses too!

I think your turning the wrong screw. on the pre 90 models there is a "fast idle cam" controlled by some coolant and vaccum lines on the throttle body. It sonds like the screw you are turning is ajusting how far the fast idle cam puses the throttle. the Idle screw is almost next to that but faing the passenger fender instead of up. as far as the rear defroster I'm guessing that as the electrical demand goes up on the alternator the engine has to work harder to meet that demand so it idles up to produce more power for the defroster. sounds normal to me, mine does it too.

ok my greasy haynes manual did not scan to well (I'm also lazy & ready 4 bed)but the drawing shows 2wd "tension rods" coming foward from the lca to what looks like a tab near where the front tie down is. and the 4wd "compression rods" coming back form the lca to(doesn't show)... well I know that tab is on the frame just behind the diff x-member. It also shows the T-bar ajusters being differant. but I don't think that will be an issue.

wow, who said they were bad? we're just discussing the options. and I said my PIAA's have outlasted my silverstars.

1989 same block, same waterpump w/ same fan/clutch on it and I belive same radiator and clearance.

will a 3" SL disrupt my ability to do what those guys were doing in the parking lot? maybe I'll just go 2" lol

my 89'(vg30i) tops out @ about 97mph but it takes forever to get from 85 to 97 on a flat. I assume your 95 (vg30e) can do @ least as well being that that your MPFI provides 10 hp inrease in top end over my TBI.

low sound, not really louder but will sound differant if... headders alone actually won't make it that loud and keeping to 2" pipe(or stock 1 7/8) will also keep the noise down. a high flow cat; not so loud if you keep stock pipe. leave the muffler alone and all should be fine. No sound; -removing manifold coolant lines, will keep the manifold(and air going in) cooler and z31parts sells manifold spacers to enhance this effect. -a K&N filter may help -switching to an Electric fan frees up some power -MSD or Jacobs Ignition system -Keeping everyting in fresh tune; cap, rotor, wires and plugs can rob you power when too old or worn. -installing the euro spec cams or some other mild upgraded cam will make the most noticable differance but if cost is and issue stick to the other mods

where'd you find the rebuild parts? My V/R went out and I Just replaced the whole thing.

I'm pretty sure they do, Or maybe its only the 2wd HB I'll scan the page in my book if I remember to after work.

MY WD21 IS ABOUT 4.5" from tread to fenderflare on 31x10.50's I have a slight t-bar crank and some crappy spacer in back It's prolly up 1" if that. Hope this helps

MINE COMES OUT FROM THE TOP WITH NO CLEARANCE ISSUES ONCE THE BOTTOM "STRIP" IS REMOVED

so far my PIAA have lasted longer than the siver stars and the silver star ultras that I have tried b4. BUt if you really want longevity... I have a set of GE bulbs (not as bright) that I have been used for years and that same pair goes back in every time one of my other bulbs go out. also, for less than the cost of the Piaa or a silverstar you can set up a direct battery relay that will also improve your lights as well as

dont forget the factory located the M/T fill plug to low and you need to add more either by jacking 1 side, pulling the floor shifter or makning an over fill petcok.