MY1PATH

if your stock bumper isn't tight enough, it can come up and smack your lights pretty hard without you knowing it.

2 keys from my dealer using code; $19 each getting lock cyl set for my key @ lockshop; $20 something same lockshop offering me a spares from code or copy for $9; $9 Hindsight being 20/20; priceless

I would think using lube when its errect would be the best method. (the antenna that is) has that not woked for you? or have you not tried it yet? If that works don't forget to wipe off the exess so that it doesn't attract too much dirt. Or you could just swap to a fixed flexible antenna, that would be more durable when you get into the brush.

:02: Ok, never owned or driven a VQ so my vote goest to the VG33 for having a flatter TQ band that picks up lower and for giving W/D21 owners an almost direct drop-in 10% increase of displacment. IMO newer engines are harder to work on and offer you less room to accomplish this more difficult work.

OK, I took off my mirrors today, had a little peak inside... 3 wires, I assume horzontal and vertical axis with variable polairty common(ground one way (+) the other) I did not see a heating element... so I guess all the times mirrors stayed clear it was because the defroster vents the sides heated up the door jam enough to keep the miorrors clear or some other fluke. Bummer. At least I know its not broken lol. maybe if i clean my heater vents again I can re-create the same phenomenon. LOL or maybe I'll put it on my project list for future mods.

I usually just group it up with the other sites I look @ and refer to it as "my nissan forums" or If I'm trying to be specific I wind up I transposeing the "O" and it comes out ; "NORPA" I know its wrong but it comes out easier

yeh, they don't even need to mount a tire to prove brake clearance and then you have a solid yes or know in less than 20 min. haggle em a little too, theres a coulple of stoies on here of ppl talking dscount tire pices down with little effort.

I like the tons of ruber look... anyway you coulda asked him to prove it. It takes no time to remove a wheel and take a 15 off the shelf and see if it clears the brakes. you don't even have to bolt it up so theres no chance in scaring thier new merchendise. allowy 15" generally cost less (they cost less than alloy 14" to extend my point) so if a guy wants to give that line and not prove it chances are he wants to sell you a more expensive wheel.

Idono about the 3" springs but I got my stock springs out w/ panhard connected. I unbolted the shocks, swaybar and e-brake lines and removed the wheels(couldn't jack the frame high enough) and then put the frame on jackstands (fully extended). both spings came out easy. I put JC spings in (the small ones) and I set the factory bottle jack on the driverside bump pad to push the it down (1") far enough to get the spring in by hand but the passenger side went easy. If I pulled the panhard I'm sure I wouln't have needed that trick. DID you DISCONNECT the E-BRAKE LINES, and the SWAY BAR ENDS? those will keep it from dropping all the way.

I would think it would be qieter, even tho they are both flow thru each one would be handling 1/2 as many exhaust pulses. migth even sound nicer...

may I re-iterate(sp) that I am very happy with my aftermarket fixtures. I went to X-pel to get some (indestuctable) clear adeaseive over them,because they are plastic and ya!! I really really like em! I can see em in the rain too! (couldn't do that with stock)

ok me (and you) have found a tangent lol that asside I donnot think that izz the problem. lol we could state our views all day but I'd like to find this guys sollution. ( which I'm not full of ideas for since my heat worked better immediately after changing themostat)

woops lol did not realize you an r50 srry. no ideas form me then.

that is incorret, "coolant" is not as thermal effecient as water. It will heat up faster and the thermostat will reach full open sooner. If there is too high a water ratio and the weather is cold enough the thermostat will remain closed and will still not get warm enough becasue there is still water going thru the heater core and thru the jiggle valve. if the engine is colder the heater core is colder and so is the hot air.

do you have a bodylift? I knew a guy w/ a bronco that had this problem becsue the filler hose was not extended so it "stretced" actually it more like flattend out. He decided to just get in the habbit of filling slow.

@ work breaking a drill bit or easy out inside a screw is not an excuse for leaving a bad fastener in a plane; using a scribe or hammer an chisel we try to rotate the bit counter clockwiese. or place a socket larger than the dirll over it and beat w/ a hammer or rivet gun, the piece may fall out into the socket because of the surrounding impact w/ no direct force on the drill itself and my favorite; use a 1/4" ball rotary file (can be found @ harware store) and a High speed air tool (slower tools work to just not as fast lol)to grid the drill /easyout out untill there is fresh metal to try dirlling again. (a dremel tool will work fine here) if a screw head his broken and the protruding threads are clean enough sometimes (use some pb blast or heat to losten it) the force of the drill on it will cause it turn untill threads itself thru and out the other side.

don't forget, you hit TDC 2x in one rotation of the camshaft the 2nd time (1 full crank rotation) is the exhuast stroke and your cams have only turned 180 degrees.

Ok now I'm doing this mod (only its for my 89)and the wires are all black, I have no Idea where do start(other than mounting) and don't want to put power to the wrong wire and fry it. nissandoms47 if your watching any info would be greatly appreciated.

sorry if you already go this base covered but did you get it aligned after you lifted it?

I see it as being more pieces to break. you can never get a spacer with 6 bolts to be as strong as the molecular bond of the actual metal used to make the rim (correct or incorrect spacting) and then your going to bolt the wheel onto the end of that in addtion? I got my AR Baja 15x8 (5 of them) for less than 450 new and I saw sets of used ultra wheels (4) on craigslist for 1-200 all the time b4 I decided to just buy new ones. Infact once I get my Bajas painted I migth be selling my AR Outlaw II 15x7 (5) for about 200.

I'd prefer a dropped one to an extended one. Geometrically; the closer your pahard is to paralell w/ the axle @ rest, the more centered you axle will stay whith suspension travel.

Im gonna take one appart in a JY for farmilarization and then I'm gonna snag some extra clutch plates form it(89) might be worth doing the same for your 01 if you have a few hours to spend in a jy.

Its ok, we all started somwhere. yes, the TSB states 5.1 L which is equal to 5.4 QT. ther is no mark, you just have to pull the floor shifter and measure out 5.1L (5.4qt) when you pour it in

thanks, i'll look into that if a ever get any time off from work.(worked thru the weekend & have to work this weed too)

yes