MY1PATH

If you send me a big enough piece of 3/16" or 1/4" steel plate plate I can plrolly make you one @ work. Don't expect rush delivery (we do actually work somtimes) but when I get to it I think you'll like the result.

I was able to get mine "stuck" in the both on position on a road trip and drove for a couple hours in the HI+LO configuration. my switch got a little buggy after that (too much current thru a tiny li'll swich) but my bulps, fixtures and wireing up front were fine. I was gonna run a DIODE from my HIs to my lows so that the lows stay on but I havn't done it yet. I also recently got aftermarket lights and I find my want for this DIODE mod is less than it was. Might I sugest running a direct battery relay for your head lights b4 you try something like that so you don't cook your switch. also, runnning a direct battery relay may free up the current you need to not even need both on. I think I'll be set after I do one myself.

Bringing this up from the dead because my heated mirrors stopped working. a few weeks ago the drivers side stayed foggy the whole drive home and now both sides stay frosted. As anybody messed with these yet? I want mine to work again.

Bringing this back on track with an update; Sta-Lube was the only GL4 I could find that did not also have a GL5 rating on it. I was also pretty cheap so I ran that for a week to fulsh out the GL5. About 3 days after running the Sta-Lube, downshifting to 2nd when warm became easier. The other day my redline arrived and I swaped the whole 5.1L(5.4qt) with it. MAN that stuf is SMOOTH! It hasn't gotten super cold up here yet but @ about 35 out it does not shift hard b4 warming up. and downshifting when warm is perfect. Defenately worth the 70 bucks or so for the MT90 from REDLINE!

they are indeed and a differant shape and the e-brake will have to be moved to off center. But, It does fit. I plan on sealing a 96+ console or a late jgc consloe or maybe even fabing a custom one.

a 180 degree theromostat will help. Also, the themal effieciency of coolant is less than the water we mix it with, it is used to prevent rust and raise boiling temperatures so the water doesn't evaporate on us. So running 100% coolant will shorten warm up times and maintain warmer engine temps. I did this last winter and then went back to 50/50 in the summer.

thats the curvy dash right? kool. takes allot of determination to do someting like that.

your equations show your dedication but I think you missed something; when you open up diameters to "increase flow" the gasses travel thru the pipes at a lower velocity becuse there is more room for them if the velocity is too low it can create turbulance within the pipes and combined with the fact that being able to expand into that area makes the gasses cool faster making them create more tubulance. this turbulace, if present, will disrupt the scavenging process(which heplps draw more air/ fuel into the engine) untill you reach a hig enough rpm to create enough exhaust to rise the velocty to a point where it clears the turbulance. that being said I'm not going to disprove you results, just providing some for thought. honesly noting speaks better that actual numbers and charts. I had my vg30i on a dyno and I will post my sheet for comparison when you get yours up here. MY low tq band is very flat (desireable) and my hp also is low. I assume you will show MUCH HIGER HP and higher peak TQ @ a higer RPM but with a steeper TQ curve to go with it. In the end and everyone should agree; you do what makes you happy. And it seems this mod made you happy so enjoi it reguardless of what others say.

I think he's talking about the gear ratio; there should be a dataplate under the hood, on usa models its on a plate in the engine bay above the fender well on the passenger side. one of the last lines will say someting like hg4? hg43= 4.36 gear ratio hg46= 4.6 hg49= 4.9 whatever this ratio is (unless you changed them) you will have to match in your new front axle

I arrived @ a gas station In oregon on fumes, literally, it was sputtering as I pulled up.(stupid not all their stations are 24hrs) the clerk pumped just shy of 21 and that is the most I have ever put in it.

lol seeing those pics @ first I was like " wait is is idler on backwards? no thats the outsie of the drivers frame rail...WTF?" then I saw you were an ausie and smacked my self lol. nice work tho, I like your brace. I think I'm gonna make a brace for my next idler(once my moog wears out)

x2 my buddy had a ka24de in his 240 and it didn't look much bigger than my other buddies ka24e so fitting shouldn't be an issue. I'm pretty sure all the KA motors share the same block (like the vg motors) and it was only the heads, bore and aspiration that defined them.

pull the sending unit and make it think its empty.

the hoohaa (grassroots) has a larger end that pivots on a 5/8 bolt rather than a tie-rod that tapers down to 1/4" the end is soppsed to "correct the factory geometry" so other parts don't wear out as fast. I compared the two when I installed mine and there is a differance side by side. and the hoohaa has felt smoother and straighter in all driving conditions.

i would not run it empty just to see if the light works, I hear its bad for the pump to be run dry (shortens its life).

maybe somone esle has the actual number, but I thought nissan only made like 500 2doors in 1990 which makes em pretty rare and IMO the best of both worlds; the 90+ MPFI engine and the 2 door body which is a few hundred lbs lighter thatn the 4 door. for any body/chasis related items pretend you have an 89 and for any engine related items say you have a 90. lol In a few years I'll be buying 97 timing belts for my 89 (after I do a 3.3 swap)

you could also just grind an 3"radus into the end of your stock brackets and weld those on. I'm sure it would be fine, I'm all about making things stronger and useing big machines to bend 1/4" plate is fun.

IIRC I read somewhere that calmin has started putting zerks on the UCA's because so many ppl had squeaky complaints. x2 on the T-bars. Aftermaket t-bars have higer spring rates (calmin +20% & +30% on the other big brands) I'd keep the camini bars if your planning on a heavy winch bumper up front. then you can put them in to compensate for the extra weight.

x2 I also have a manifold available for cheap. so take you pick who evers closer I guess. I can also have mine blasted @ work to re-condidion the fatigue life if you like. few $ extra for that tho but really. I think pacesetters are like 220 vs 228 for a pair of stock manifolds. thats like paying more for less lol. Yeh there's more work involved but Its worth it. If your worried about noise they don't really make your vehicle allot louder unless you use larger pipes and mufflers.

I'm going to promote the used smittybuilt option for the bumper. (see slicks picks) Slick another member and (oneday) I have smitty built bumpers modified to fit the pathy. slicks is off a mid 80's yota and mine is off a 93ish s10. I found mine on craigs list for 100 bucks and I think thats where slick got heres. I think she welded hers to the frame but I'm going to make replicas of the stock bumper backets out of 1/4" plate and weld it to those. Like you I have access to the plate metal so its actually a fairly cheap but strong bumper compared to aftermaket brands. I think slick has even mowed a few things down with hers.... Slick you wacthing? did I miss anyting?

allot of drivers don't think of that in traffic either! Damn them; being inches away on a steep grade in Seattle or San Franacisco!

why not just swap the whole consoe? then you'll have cup holders!

I found a direct fit magnaflow cat on ebay for 70 bucks, I couldn't pass that up; I'm very happy with the results. they actually have a few on there now just search the part# 22765 for 86-89 pathfinders & HB (I needed to use some 1/2ID high temp rubber hose to hook up the cat emissions side pipe) 22760 for 90+ vg30 pathinders & HB list price is like 250 but you may find em for under 100 on ebay lately.

EBC?or something like that... I heard good things about em. Stillen if you want the pro stuff. but I haven't heard anything one way or the other about them

KIWI EDGE dressing. it comes in a squeeze bottle with a sponge aplictaor. great for boots and appearnatly great for my supervisors jeep fenders! He does it every few weeks or less and its pretty cheap too. I also heard romor about propane torches and heatguns as a more long term fix that makes em look like new. name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars="">