MY1PATH

89/xe/man/lsd/4.3- "sport package" came with 15x7 AR outlaw II rims, 31x10.5 tires and LSD. I-beam trailing arms yeh tnz, there beefy compared to the tube ones I see on others. I thought all se and all sport package models came with lsd

29"!? whats wrong with 31x10.50? They came on many Pathfinders stock (like mine) and there are plenty of AT & MT tread options in this size from almost every brand out there. I've got good things to say about the Uniroyal Laredo good in dirt, gravel, dirt after 45 min of rain(mud) slush sludge and snow as well as a good quiet higway ride. I'm Gonna try the Nokian Vatiiva mt next.

I broke an easy out in 1 and decided I also was not gonna do it outside so for over 600 bucks I had 3 broken ones and the other 9 replaced, I also had my headders done @ the same time. I was gonna do the headders myself but I figured why put the old manifolds back on if I already had the headders right? then I found out the the first guy who tried to order me headders from thorley would have done it for under 500 broken studs and all!

Ball-Seat washers are a good friend when it comes to uneaven surfaces. For others w/ less toys you can take a 1/2" bj spacer from AC's and cut/sand it @ an ange and get the same part. Does anyone know if the calmini uca's correct this angle?

they say that fwd is better for snow & adverse weather, but I've learned how to react to situations in a rwd its hard taming those reactions so I don't create problems in a fwd car. as far as ice, open is good if both weels are on ice and it wont send you sideways if one wheel grabs a bare spot. But if your stopped and 1 wheel is grabbing and the other is slick on ice your gonna have to use a little break with the gas @ same time to even out the torque and even then 1 wheel might just sit there and spin while the other does nill.

Bringing this back form the dead; I've been seeing allot of r200 Hellical LSD's on ebay. How would a Hellical type be vs a clutch type. I know I'm going LSD in front but is a $300 Helical a good move or should I stick to the clutch type?

having recessed bolts is a really good idea! anywhere there is a bolt just use double thickness, the outer layer will have a hole big enough for a socket and the inner layer will have the bolt in it holding it in place. steel is heavy and corrodes easily but maluable and strong (if it takes a dent you can pound it out). alluminum can be hard but higer tempers will be more brittle(may crack on impact or get more bittle if you pound a dent out) Alluminum doesn't corrode too bad or fast alone but bare alluminum when in contact with bare steel can lead to some bad rust problems. Sainless is worst and best, Its heavier, strong enough and wont corrode as much. its also maluble If your gonna use aluminum I reccomend 7075, from my experience @ work it seems to be less brittle than other (same temper & thickness) alluminum. and stay away form 2024, most beginners in my shop crack 2024 t6 their first time trying to bend it; not a good impact choice. Hmm... If I were to make it;(spendy) 7075 T6 .375"(3/8) bond thin (maybe .020") titanium stripsok I'll be reasonable, bond rubber strips where ever it contacts the frame across bolt locations and such to prevent aluminum-> steel corrosion contact) Counter bore each bolt hole .25" that leaves 1/8 of material to hold skid on and .25 should sink most bolt heads up to 5/8 diameter. make cutouts to access drain-plugs and (in my case) t-bar ajusters. Doubler(another piece riveted the outside for extra strenght) across areas that are in closer contact to the skid and my need more protction anyway like the crossover exhaust pipe. thanks for makin' me think, now I wanna make one! (the ti version)

I don't call it stealing either but beware your company prolly gets $$$ back from all the steel it recycles I'd hate to see the wrong person see you take out of the recycling bin. Thats how it is over here anyway.

I don't know where your @ on the project but I'm sold on durabak ; I wrote them with my color scheme in mind and they sent me severl smooth and textured color chips . I've had em sittn' arround for a while and the other day I got 2 thinkin' "Hey can this $#!t be as tough as they say it is?" and immediately attempted to key it! The color chips creased in my hands and there is visible damage to the backsides of the chips but on the coating side the coating was intact and un scrathced. It only creased a litte where the chip itself was creased. Today I drug a scisor across it while backing it on the table so it wont crease, after a 2nd harder addempt I finally made a visible scratch but it only scrathced the surface.

I think the fronts would be your biggest concern with 13" thats a wide pice of rubber swinging arround, depending on your backspacing they may stil hit your doors after extensive trimming and if you move too far inward then there may be frame rub but if you get it just right and ajust your steering stoppers so you don't turn as far you might make it work. This is all speculation btw, maybe somone with 33x10-12's can tell you better.

x2 On everything! Esp Better gass, locker (shimmed lsd) locker in the rear can do better than an open diff front and open rear.

most those machines run off of CAD drawings. If you can do it up on CAD for them so that all they have to do is set the start/stop for each cut and bring it in on a disc thats less work for them which may make them more willing. I have a waterjet next door, I just wish it wasn't "government use only" wait how'd I make that ball joint spacer...

I think all american NISSAN trucks and 4x4 have 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern. this has also been used for toyota trucks and 4x4 for many years I don't know if they changed it recently. I would assume that the patrol is the same but @ least you know what size you need so you can ask if its 6 on 5.5 anytime you see a set of wheels.

I went to a specialty bolt shop called TACOMA SCREW with my OEM bolt. They measured it and got me longer ones 10.9 under $20. when you ask for a bolt there they ask for "hardened" or "not hardend" the hardened being "grade 8 equivalent or higer" and not hardened being grade 5 or "close equivalent". I guess if you wanted specific grades like grade 3 you could order them but why when grade 5 is @ their fingertips.

I pulled emissons sys & cabon canister pulled for more working room when I went to my bigger coil (yeh its that big, 55,000v) when I put it back it acted the same way; 1 vaccum line was leaking and the other 2 were mixed up. double checked my vaccum lines, replaced 1 corrected the other 2 and all went to normal.

I do understand the idea of apperciation for what this site has provided, I am greatful as well. IMHO the best thing you can do is point others in the right direction, do for the newer guys what everyone on this site has done for you. As long as people like you give back becuse they are reciving the cycle should be perpetual and the comunity will maitain it self. On that note I would also like to say; THANKYOU EVERYONE, for making this comunity what it is. And as a second thought if there ever is a need for a larger or better server for NPORA to reside on or maintainace for a better search engine(my only complaint) I will pony up a small amount of my hard earned as well.

is there a cyl head temp senosr in addition to the coolant temp sensor in these vehicles? if there is that might be the burried culprit we are talking about.

I bought some longer UCA bolts to ensure that I still had plenty of threads left in the frame for when the shop aligned it after my t-bar crank... If they diddn't have enough treads due to too many alignment shims that may have been a contributing factor. my longer ones were 14x1.5x60mm long metric grade 10.9 stock is 14x1.5x50mm grade metric grade 8.8

ok and its got the vg30 engine in it so my previous post still stands

the tranny is worth more than the vehicle so buy the vehicle and steal the tranny and any other parts you may need.

i belive sarari by arb makes makes pathy snorkels and there are writups for that and cousom ones on here. pace setters; inspect all your pipes, sometimes they forget to ream out the union & the y pipe after the weliding is done this causes exterme resriction. I don't reccomend greater than 2.25' pipe from the cat back on a stock vg30. too big and you lose low end torque. I actually went down form 2.25 to 2.0 AFTER I did my headders and felt an increase in low end with no noticable loss in top end.

330 is an exellent price considering the calmini system is like 600 the specer low system was like four digit hig and the L&P systems ranged form high $$$ to really high $$$$. So you spend 330 for a modified part that you can get un-modified off ebay for 70-80 bucks but the un-modified form is just weak and the very little ball joints built into the factory centerlink are just one morepart to create play in a steeing system. Replacing them with a 5/8 grade 8 bolt that is less impacted by shear force than the puny OEM joint. and the corrected gemetry of the HOOHAA link ensure that the surrouding components will last longer too. you don't have to buy it but will most likely be THE LAST cenerlink you buy if you do. Mine wasn't even that worn out when I upgraded and it still made a noticable improvement on the road.

really? wow thats lighter that I thought. do you think a vg33 is lighter because of (same block)bigger bore or heavier because of bigger pistons? its prolly not enough to matter is it?

I think 4x4 parts sells a 350 tranny adapter. and theres a datsun 510 site that also sells parts you might need. I'm guessing the pathfinder with its cast iorn block and overbuilt forged internals weighs almost 500 lbs so another 100 or so in the bay souldn't hurt you if you run aftermarket t-bars.

x2