MY1PATH

I still gocha covered on 10 whenever your ready.

I'm sure it works on 87-95 but IMO 2.5" is too big on a stock pathfinder if you want to keep low end torque. but for a dialy driver and higway cruzin' it'd be fine.

there this stuff, I thnik its called naval gelly you brush it on let it sit and than scrub it off. maybe lookinto that.

summitracing.com sells them and they are on ebay too and 4wheel parts sells them. click the link to find a store near you. edit; ok you In europe... your profile says georgia. Idno where you'll get them. and I was thinkn "hows it get -20 in gerogia" maybe somone stateside could buy one and mail it to you.

The HooHaa centerlink is an improvement no matter what your driving conditions are. It corrects the faulty points of the original factory system that wear out too quickly and cause shimmy and bump steer. when I installed mine, the 85 higway miles I would do once or twice every weekend became allot more plesant; Smoother, straigther & no lag on the turns.

From personal experience, but I think many will agree, Hoohaa centerlink and new idler arm bushings would be the best way to go and a CALMINI idler brace soon after to make sure everything lasts and don't break/bend.

Grats man! IIRC there is a noticable diffeance after you put it on. enjoi!

I thought I would add some aditional info for future lookers; I put in an HB shifter today and did some comparrison shots. The first pic shows how much taller the HB Shifter is which compensates for the lift. The upper portions are actually the same its just the piece between the upper section and the pivot that is differant. this part does not come with out dissasebling the 4H to N plunger (which cannot be done on the vehicle) so no short cuts there sorry. The Middle pic shows that the HB Shifter kicks foward some improving floor pan clearance in 4 low. it will also make your shifter sit closer to your radio if your not BL yet. The last pic shows the 3 bolt locations for easiest removal/installation. The bottom bolt attaches it to the actuator lever on the T-case and will be covered by a rubber boot that keeps the busing greased and the 2 upper ones bolt it directly to the tranny. I think it's most easily done whith the shifter in 4H. Other than that just shove the new one up there and have somone wiggle the shifter boot untill they find the end thru the hole (may take a few tries if you snag the boot liner) the rest aligns itself if you bolt the 2 upper pivot bolts first.

just get an optima yellow-top, it should meet all you expectations. If you need something less extreme the red-top is more affordable. most auto stores can get em and most performace & 4x4 shops stock em.

Late OcTOBER is arround the corner. IF your on schedule don't forget to keep us posted I really wanna see a VG33ER in a WD21!!!!

I'd say 45 ftlbs and a flatter tq band is a BIG differance. Do trubo diesels produce flatter torqe bands? Or do they spike like all other non-diesel turbos?

specs for the QD32 pulled off the internet.Couldn't find and MPG ratings but I'm sure it could be better that what you have now "QD32 - 3.2L L4 OHV Diesel (81kw 221nm)" 81kw=108HP 221nm=163ftlbs tho you would have a lower tq band I belive it would be flatter to. Faltter is good but lower is bad and 108 hp.... well if you could make it a turbo diesel it might be pretty awesome but thats also more $$$$. I don't think its worth it.

I belive it works something like this; Higher combustion temps means more energy is used creating heat, energy used to create heat is not being mechanically used by the engine to propel the veicle therefore it is wasted energy and wasted fuel. even if you pickup power from having a cleaner air/fuel mixture it comes @ the cost of a less efficent engine.

I'd say locker only 'cause you've got an open diff right now and nicknames like "1 wheel drive", "3 wheel drive" and "wrong wheel drive" come to mind.

In doing so the sysetem reduces combustion temperatures which helps MPG's. mine sitll drips rust and leaves pretty stains inside my engine bay so I don't think its functioning 100% after I replace it I hope to see .5 more MPG's @ the least.

pm Alkorahil with this thread in mention. He works @ a dealership or somthing and may be able to get it for you. I will be getting the whole assembly from him @ some point down the road.

once alll is done why not have it undercoated instead of spray painted.

so you've been told and in most cases it would be true but in this case another member here has used both and could not tell the differance between the 2 but since u gotta do it anyway whats it matter right? have fun! I plan to do a disc swap one day.

I would think the 2 are un-related. if your timing is correct your timing is correct even if the distro shaft is 1 tooth off the fuel is electronicly contoled based on the TPS, MAS & o2. Then again I'm thinking of my 89 where 2 injectors feed 6 cyl. If you have a 90 or later (1injector per cyl) I think you'll be off because I think the crank angle sensor is in the distro and so the injectors may opening to early or too late. in any case I would pull the distro and correct the alignment of that shaft before doing anything else.

i SANDBLASTED and painted mine. never took apart the hinges. just moved them when it was wet too keep it form craking when it dried but powdercoating may be another story.

x2 I have to pull my front mudflaps just to get it all out. this time I left them off so I can just srape the dirt out any time.

your link is a reman unit, If you look up the new ones form cadone they are prolly the ones the description was intended for "unlike traditional new parts" and the new ones 100 bucks which still aint bad. parts america prolly just slapped the desciption on all cadone axles instead of just the new ones. I'd say try it, the new one that is, take pictures against your old one and mic the shaft diameter to see if it really is bigger.

big passenger ? lol maybe my theroy is wrong.