MY1PATH

Going thru all my old records to find factory diagram for another member I found these: The very day my dad bought it in 89 he pulled out of the dealer and WHAM! Wasn't looking, got t-boned in the passenger fender and that is the oldest pick of my pathy showing it afer a body shop visit. BUT! More interestingly... I found this article: Hope Its BIG enough for yall 2 read I didn't feel like typing it all.

here It is: looks more like a dealer parts page of the 2 differant styles rather than instructions but it does show how it all goes together. that carier will also greatly reduce the damage done to that back corner if you ever happen to get Rear Ended By.... lets Say a Chevy BLAZER for example http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18998&hl=

the e's put out slightly more HP and TQ but the i's TQ band starts out flatter.

the "underskin support" should already be there just like the nuplates are for the latch. all thats missing is the hardware that goes inside the back cornerer. Dad put the carier on the pathy after he bought it in '89 only he bought the kit from the dealer I think might have the dealer Instruction sheet(he kept all records b4 he sold it 2 me) if u want me 2 scan it.

Hey if the bore aint big enough, put your rig on jacks and hold a file to the bore on the rear wheel while its in gear then move the rears to the front once they reach 4".... jk

gosh B I hope he din't read that and storm out to his pathy b4 scrolling down lol

Heres how to make use of that switch to check / clear old error codes or to find out why the CEL is on (check engine light) http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...;hl=diagnostics

Basically It Controls your Engines fuel mixture and monitors some of its condition and some of your emissions systems.Your 88 may appear to be Carburated due to its round style airbox on top to the engine but it actually has 2 injectors right above the throttle body and therefore requires an ECU to control them

as a general rule of thumb I put a dab of grease (antiseize works too) on every fastener that that goes into my vehicle makes metal to metal contact. not only does it prevent seizing but it also dampens vibrations that would cause a fastenter to back out. On screws that go into plasitc clips and such I leave alone because I think the grease might soften the plastic.

Does it drive ok or does the steering act funny? Your suspensoin bushings may creek and pop a little going over bumps and making turns... maybe be a little more spcific about the noise... Whenever I have the vehcle off the ground (maintence, rotation etc.) I pull the front tires off and grab what I guess would be called the steering knuckle with both hands I try to rock it in multiple directions. then I grab the cv by the shaft, push and pull on it and try to move it side to side. pushing and pulling it shouldn't budge side to side I feel I wiggle a hair, can't really see it move but I can feel it. grabbing the steering knuckle I get even less wiggle (the vehicle moves more) I also do this to my centerlink and tie-rods (thats how I pinpointed my worn CL to be the cause of my bump steer) I don't know if there is a more prefered method out there or if there are anyflaws in my method but it's seemed to work for me so far... anyone else got a differant method?

AND HERE IT IS! I THINK ITS AWESOME! Few More PIX here

little off topic bu how do tha cams feel? big diffeance? which cam and did it help your low end?

keep in mind, I think a 10" rim can put allot of stress on IFS and the front wheelbearings.

Form what I've seen here, its been done. The tire store told me 15x8 would be better because the tires want to ballon out in the center tread on 15x7 and that running lower preassure to flatten the treadprint would increase sidewall friction & temps. "so eitherway your going to shorten the life of the tire with 15x7 but well still do it if you want us too" on the other hand I have heard the arguement that; 1st gen pathys weigh arround 3800lbs divide by 4 wheels is less than a thousand lbs a wheel for a a tire thats prolly rated for over 2000lbs and therefore "sidewall friction" is not going to be an issue. I think its up to opinon from there... My opinon is 15x8 for anything wider than 11"

my friends 94 se auto used to run really high rpms on the freeway, like it wasnt shifting. then one day it just wouldn't go, anywhere. the engine would start and I know reverse and N worked for him but he had to get towed cause it something was wrong going foward. He said that the mechanic said "a wire holder rotted out and let the wires get burned on the exhaust" It cost him $400 to have new tranny wireing slpiced in. And thats all I know about the problem he had.

wow your plugs are that old!? Maybe its cause I have TBI and the intake manifold is allot smaller but I just take the air box off the top and I can get right back there.

yes and no on the tounge weight, making A longer will increase your leverage and reduce tounge weight @ the cost of making your trailor longer (maneverabilty issues come mind) the position of the axle(s) in relation to where most the weight is on the trailor and the angle that 'A' comes from the axles are other factors. Your gemetry may already be fine as far as the trailor. I did get a little mixed up between you montero and your pathy. I'd say try loading up the pathy and see. If it sags more than a few inches or gives you handling issues on a test run then upgrade. Keep in mind that the pathy is only rated to tow arround 3,500 lbs and if you think your tounge weight is over 450lbs I wouldn't try it. Hopefully somone with a little more expeice with towing and pathfinders combined will chime in.

I bought a 5gal bucket of gear oil and used half of it by the time I had done my Tranny(manual), tranfer-case, front dif and rear diff. then you have enough to do it again in 2yrs or sooner if conditions deem necessary. If you have a haynes or chilton manual the ammounts are listed in there.

I'd say your vehicle is going to sag under load and an inch isn't very much. Unless your having handling issuses I don't see much need to upgrade. The weight you need to know about the trailor w/ reguards to springs it the tounge weight. This is the actual amount of weight that the trailor puts on the hich and the rest is distribuetd thru the wheels of the trailor.

I was thinking more like .25x3" hoizontal bars spaced 3" apart. Like on the rear of Datsun z cars but more durable

id say the 15w40 is the culprit mostly because I've only run 5w30 & 10w30 in mine and never had that problem. Differant viscocities will also behave differant.

Makes me want to make a sun-deflector for the back window that is strong enough to stop broken pieces from entering the vehicle.

The tapping was abnormally loud, the new injectors are quiet and My exhaust was also smelling rich. now that its quieter and the exhaust smells normal(ecu is able to contro air fuel ratio better because injector is not leaking) and I might be getting better mpg are all things that re-enforce the the old one was bad. Are you thinking youre having problems too?

I'm guessing he was using a cable or rope because a chain would have just let the hook drop. Mayhaps using recovery chains where possible will ruduce chance of risk?

Update: I finaly got my new Injectors in. I went with the Python Performance injectors. It took the ECU a full day of driving to fully ajust to them(exhaust smelled pretty rich for a while) No noticeable differance in performance but my CEL stays off now and I think I'm getting better gas mileage. My wife drove it and got just as far on a quarter tank as I normally do (she usually gets worse MPG; waits to long to shift & revs it to pull out from a stop) so it seemes to be doing better on gass but I'll have to wait a few tanks to be sure. EDIT; oh yeh, and it starts up really quick now! On a warm day it will start faster than you can turn the key and faster than I've ever seen any vehicle start. I guess this is a good thing right?