MY1PATH

I kinda wanna see how far the rear end will scoot under heavy throttle before somthing breaks... lol

ok, thanks for setting me straight.

I would not reccoment using 4-HI on wet roads unless the roads have lots (as in basically flooded) of standing water on them and travel under 35mph when doing so. 4-HI is for low traction conditons like gravel, dirt, snow, ice, mud etc. Yes wet roads have decreased traction over dry roads but its still enough traction to put un-nessescary additonal wear on your tires. Your front diff is also not lsd so locking them into our driveline (both auto and manual locks) creates additonal wear arrond turns. from a mechanical standpoint I belive the reason 4wd creates additonal wear is because I think the t-case puts more power to the front wheels so that your vehcle can pull you outta tight spots with the front rather than have the back wheels push you in deeper. low traction surfaces give enough to not put too much wear on anything but on paved roads this would create the effect of your front weels pulling the back wheels faster than they want to spin.

TrailChaser, I've watched your videos a few times I was wondering if you taped any more progress.

I don't think there is too much harm. A lot of ppl add and extra QT of redline to thier manual trans(after its already full) to make cold shifting smoother. The fill pulg will only let you fill so much before it spills back out of the tranny so overfilling requires lifinging one side of the vehile higer than the other, an overfil spout (aftermaket part that you prolly don't have) or remove the shifter (manual) and pour in form the top. chances are your mechanic did none of these he just filled to the plug and that ammount was "~0.8" more than the minimum reccmended level. I'm sure other will agree that your fine.

Is there any harm in running an upgraded coil? I already have one and I wanna make sure that I dont have to dig up a OE coil somwere so that I get the most benifit.

A guy I work with is doing this to his jeep, we were talking about it and he said that I did it I should get stainless valves and stainless exhaust because there will constantly be a little bit-o-water dripping thru your system that wasn't fully converted. I told him I thought that the temp that the engine reaches was more than enough to get rid of with any small amount of watter coming across the valves and there'd be none left when it came out the exhaust. (if there really was any to begin with) I dono if thats the right answer or if what he said migt be a consideration for yall but I just thought I'd put that out there.

in my 89' I only pulled the PS belt, the metal hose the rubber hose above it and the thermo housing above that. yeh it may have been easier if I pulled the fan but oh well. its not too bad, just a tight space. I think you could handle it.

Thanks, I guess I was visualizing it backwards. edit: Also If anyone wants a used cevy 10-bolt w/ 3.43 gears(IIRC)PM me for details

I would use the slip yoke off the paty

I we put a moser 9" w/ 3.89 gears in my friends 99 z28 and we also swapped to a newer aluminum diveshaft. He said I could have the old aluminum one and said it would be neat if I could get it on the pathy. that being said I took some measurements; center to center i think it was close to . Pathy 36.75" Camaro 40.5" That being known, does anyone know how deep tranny yoke will slide in? It might work @ ride height but with the more than 3" extra will it slam something B4 suspensoin can bottom out?

??? explain...

I see your point of energy desity but isn't the hydo cell going to be running off of surplus energy from the alternator?(energy that was being created but not used) I veiw it has taking un-used engery from the alternator and putting it back into the engine.

what kind do you have? OEM ones are smaller and mount to a tab on your CL and a tab that must be bolted to your driverside frame rail.(you'll see a pair of threaded holes between the steering box bolts) If your using aftermarket you have to cut off that tab and use the one that comes with the kit, It goes on w/ U-bolts. You can't use the stock tab because aftermarket shocks are too large in daiameter and will hit the CL. posditon it angled down sligtly so that if it slips it won't take out your oil pan. the other end depends on the kit some use a tab and the OE mounting holes, others have a bracket that U-bolts to the frame and some even clamp onto your pitman arm. when you position the shock crank the wheel all the way right to hard lock(drive it 1ft so it doesn't spring back) extentd the shock all the way then push it back it about .25" CL and slowly turn the wheels hard lock left. have somone whatch so that you don't crush it. If it looks like your going to crush it you need one with a longer stroke or you can ajust your steering stops to reduce your steering to its movement range(not my favorite idea)

NVM I'm just a curious one, I'm not doing a SAS

I got a new alluminum radiator from my local repairshop (not parts store) for $150 I put it and the difference form old mudspattered, rusted fins falling off to new whas tremendous. I think a 4 row might be a tad overkill and i fear it may prevent you running proper operating temp even if the thermostat stays shut.

what if you reversed it so that axle is leading the links instead of following them? or would that cause problems?

I seem to have read that here a few times before.... The Oil PS sensor gets loose and leaks on the starter and then the starter craps out. I better double check mine.

Has anyone ever tried to duplicat the 5-link rear suspension used in wd21 pathys for there SAS?

your stock is 27x18 IIRC, I think you would prolly be able to make it work with a little coustom bracketing and plumming.(the hoses are on opposide ends) as long a its not so thick it hits your fan. Are you having heat problems? edit: also the GM is a crossflow radiator and your stock is downflow radiator. I don't know if that makes a difference but maybe somone else on here can tell us.

my pathy has been broken into a few times and with each lock Cylinder replaced I came to learn that the little actuator rods are bent easily(I imagine if your turned the key to hare you could bend one) and this makes the lock act funny. It took several tries of straigtening and correcting agles for me to get my passenger door to unlock normaly.

1: bad ground is a common electrical problem and alot of ppl usualy assume that first. the fix is as easy as finding the poor connection in the circut(sometimes can be hard to find) or it could be bad sensors (the fuel one could be a bitch) 2: All my gears jump a little under load It could be just the way our tranny's work... anyone else? 3: are you holing the door handle up when you close the door? This was a feature designed to keep you from loking your keys in. Lock the door, hold the door handle up as you close it and don't let go untill the door is shut. hope this helps.

thats allot of dirt under your skid! wow!

interesting... my '89 doesn't have a guage just a ligt that shines red @ startup and I think I saw it yellow once when I may have been low. Anyway I would assume that the light and the guage would run off the same sensor but maybe somone else can provide better info since I don't even have a guage. wellcome to NPORA BTW