MY1PATH

Any aftermarket torsion bar will provide a stiffer ride than stock. This is often reccomended to counteract the weight of heavy bumpers and winches. If your looking to save $$ just get UCA's(crank on stock bars), Rancho 2" lifted shocks and Jeep Grand Cherokee coils from a junker. (use the search to find out which year/model coil specs etc) If you want the complete package and your not as consiervetive on $$$ I'd look into the Calmini setup. I comes with everyting above, t-bars, panhard relocator, brake line extensions and more.

In standard not metric; what are the HP/Torque specs of the TD27?

@ start up when its cold I get that sound but a little higer pitched only lasts 45 sec max usally not more thatn 10 sec. I Mine anit a header leak, I got thorley headers and it still does it. when it does it on a warm day its usually about 2500 since the last oil change and I add 1/2 qt and try to remember to change the oil in another thousand miles or so. My guess is its a lifter or valve slap from a not closing fast enough but w/ no ill effects over the years I'm not too worried. I am concerned about yours tho, going constant like that....

I didn't do it all myself but some notes one my thorley install are on this page. I picked up @ least 2mpg from them too. (about 20mpg higway now) dealing with broken studs will be the worst part everything else is not so bad in compare.

IMO IFS swaybars only reduce body roll and have no impact on articulation

I'm pretty sure calmi uses the MOOG OEM style replacement and can be found @ any parts store. The T-bars are not a must unless you want stiffer suspension or you want to prevent bottoming out too easy with the weight of an extra heavy bumper and/or winch. IMO go I would go with the calmini just cause I like having a done deal like that + I think the calmini UCA's look stronger. I like blue so that by itself makes it worth every penny.... JK but blue is still nice.

3/4 to 1" uca bumpstop gap is good, that way you still have some downtravel. the reason you didn't hit after craninkg 3" out of the t-bar is bcause they have sagged from age so your first 1" was prolly back up to stock and the other 2" is just more . as for the alignement issue take one of your uca blolts out and bring it to a bolt shop or specialty hardware store ( using a diferant vehicle of course) and get 4 longer bolts so that the alignment shop has enough bolt to give you a proper alignement. about a 1/4" longer should be enough (thats what I got) I don't know how long you can go b4 bottoming out on something. anyway 4 of these should run you about 30 bucks, put them in yourself and the alignment shop should be able to get you aligned just fine.

It neat to see you look back on your experience. Hopefully I don't look back and have too many regrets with my WD21. In 19 yrs I only have a few; Dad getting hit hit the day he bought it in 89 (a life of alignment challenges) Hitting a quad jump from the landing side instead of the launch shide ( I hit the launch the first time and it was awesome!) altho I think it did help the alignement issue even tho it messed up allot more lol. ...But I guess so far my list only includes errors not mods mainly because for 18 yrs its been a mostly stock toy. now that its mine the mod list has been getting put together and I'll try to choose carefully.

You can also goto his site grassroots4x4.com

All the minerals (incl salt) in a hot spring cant be too friendly on a vehicle can it? I soppose if you wash it well when yer done wheelin it don't matter tho. just my $.02

I think the socket may be bad, solder in a new pair of 9004 sockets and see what happens.

go to the store and buy whats called a back tap. use it, b4 you get it out far enough to see the treads take a scibe, a tool steel poker or thin screwdriver and jab @ the gasket. hammering the poker and using PB blaster Penitrating oil will help. once the gasket is free finsh removing the backtap with the gasket on it. you now have it off w/ no extra dirt in the engine.

OE w/ brace it is then!

IME the best on-road tire for me has been the Uniroyal Laredo. It has lasted a long time and is still decent if you get in to a hairy travel situation off road. I don't know if they make it the same (or even at all) anymore but the thick too muti-ply casing (can't remember how many but more than 3) made for a firm ride even when PSI was running a little low and I never had a flat with them.

Bearing races DOH! I bet I coulda found those cheaper than $40 @ nissan. anyway do you know if these other ppl just slide them on the rod beteen the busshing and the frame and call it a day or do the weld them in place to prevent shifting of the rod?

I have a hoohaa CL do you think reaming out my tapers and convering to heim joints is a good idea?

What does the factory sevice manual say for the 4wd compression/tension rod bushings? I went and got energy suspension bushings for them but now I find the factory bushing cups are shot. I heard somwhere that they are originally tacked in place. does it say anyting about that or do I just new cups from nissan and slide them in?

how does the one-off steering setup work? advantages? Better yet whats the advantage of replacing TREs with Heim Joints?

In the beginning I had a the 18" long 2.5"magnaflow spiced into stock exhaust. It sounded better but thats about it. Now I have headders, Magnaflow 2.25" cat and 14" long 2.25 magnaflow mufler with a 90 deg dump above the rear control arm right b4 my sway bar (had to trim the bar a little) To cutback on backfiring/ popping noise I kept the stock midpipe b4 the cat and I used 2" pipe after the mufler. I think it sounds the best it ever will, I really like it.

look closely, I see it.

If your looking to rebuid your cluster or add new guages go to summitracing.com If you just want the white overlays for your existing guages check ebay, they pop up there from time to time.

why does the 3" cost less than the 2" doesn't the 3" come with more stuff like brackets and extentions?

A 3.3L out of a later model pathy will bolt right on, use your old intake manifolde TB sensors etc so you don't need to update your computer. swap the crank and cam gears over so you can use your original accesories. vg33 motors can be found on the JDM market for less than 2g

wow I almost thought I was looking @ my own pathy only I used a single filter. I never said anyting about overheating, IMO letting oil cool a little b4 going back to the engine is good for the engine but maybe it doesn't make any differance since its gone 18yrs w/o it. I don't know. we Can all agree that no matter where you put it; it will make it easier than trying to squeze filter between the headers each time?yeh?

ABS = Antilock Brake System Locked brake / wheel = a wheel/break that is no longer spinning. If the vehicle is still moving this means the wheel is skidding or sliding locking up = a wheel / brake approacing the locked brake condition ABS control module uses a wheel speed sensor on each wheel so it knows that all wheels are traveling @ the same speed. when you hit the brakes (mostly on slippery condidtions or when you hit them hard in good conditions) it makes sure that none of the wheels lock up. so if you need to stop and one wheel rolls over and oil patch the wheel speed sensor will see that wheel slowing down and the ABS will reduce brake preassure to that wheel while increasing brake preassure to the other wheels. because that wheel did not become locked the vehilce was able to slow down without swerving or pulling. rubber stops you best when its just below flirting with that fine line between slipping (locked) and gripping pavemtent. the ABS controls your bakes to keep you close to that line while trying not to let you cross it. You may have noticed the light comes on (when it was working properly) while brakeing really hard, then again maybe you didn't notice the light because of the reason you were braking really hard. (damn j-walkers) anyway I helped a friend whith is pontiac, the wheel speed sensor was integrated into the wheel bearing, we were actually chaning the bearing but it comes as one unit can do one without the other. For your sake I hope it is simpler than this since I'm gessing changing a wheel bearing on a pathy is a little harder thatn a pontiac G6