MY1PATH

thats what I was thinking, cleanest air possible (filter would not clog as fast), consitant air temp; in the summer w/ A/C on its cooler than outside air and in the winter w/ heat on no possiblity of ice in the intake. But the noise.... I think it might be pretty loud hearing that air being sucked in from the cab, would prolly have to make a sound dampening box for it.

back to the diff drop, It's sopposed to work on all r200's no? anyone know why it wont? And as far as being worth the money Its only $40 now instead of $150 from SLR

heres a curve ball: Instead of running a snokel, pipe the intake into the cab....? Or would that just be too loud?

I think you may be over thining it. but doing a diff drop may help take cv stress off your mind. https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...roducts_id=5277

hey, I think the cutting boards are pretty neat.

so r50s are always locked stock? hmm learn something new every day.

sure its a word! it means your vehicle stays intact and structurally sound longer right? lol be sure to post pics when its done I'm thinkin about trying this stuff too!

in the locked position woulnt the hubs provide more resisance the the auto hub in the unlocked position? I mean they are turning the cv and diff while locked right and w/ my autos i can hold the cv and spin the wheel freeley when unlocked...

I'm not sure how thick your skids are but I'm thinking a permanat soloution would be to counter-bore the holes big enough for a socket and deep enough to protect the fastener head. On second thought that would have to be a thick skid to be able to counter bore that much.... Next Idea:Not as simple but still simple. drill the holes big enough for a socket and weld a backing over the hole with a hole in it for the fastener so it sits flush or vise versa make 1/4-3/8 plate doublers with socket sized holes and weld them over the fastenr head. end result. no more washers to break, fastener sits in a recessed hole safe(er) from impact so it can easily be removed and best of all when a rock hits your doubler it does not apply any shear load to the fastener whereas the rock washer would.

Could you see more of 1 wheel and less of the other in your side mirrors when accelerating?

I don't think those will protect the bolt head. Finishing washers are designed for a countersunk screw to nest into them. what you are looking for needs to have a flat bottom in the center for your bolt head to tuck into.

Agreed, magnaflows do reduce allot of backpreassure. my first magnaflow 2.5" and 2.5" pipe all the way seemed like it killed low end torque. When I went down to 2" It all came back. All single pipe of course.

well the smttybuilt will protect the grille so its only half-thread-jacking lol. The smittybilt came from an 93ish S10 blazer and was IIRC $100 on craigslist. I plan to make replicas of the pathy bumper mounts out of 1/4 inch plate w/ a 3" concave on the end for it to weld on to. If you look @ slicks picks her "mini me" pathy has one from a mid 80's yota on it.

keep in mind the website stated you need a large opening to spray this stuff, its thick and i fear may cause trouble in some paint guns.

yeh, the whole think kinda just died huh? Maybe its cause gass went back down...But its a trick!!!! even tho prices went down after the dramatic rise it is still not as low as it was a year ago. They want us to think its better but its not as good as it was. keep trying I say!

good on you

your door may have sagged a little over time. if you lift up on the open door and it wobbles than it may be the pin if its firm than losten the hinge blots shift the door upward and re-tighttnen. you can also losten latch on the doorframe and ajust it so that the door catches more smoothly. IIRC there may already be a writeup on it here.

I'll try to remember that 92, I do plan on doing heculiner up to the body line (hopefully next summer) a hercline stipe between the gutters on my hood and the roof of my vehicle. the rest is going a darker blue. I don't know if thats enough black to make em look better and they will also be sitting behind a black Smitty built bumper. EH, I still don't know... thanks 4 the input guys.

I'm running the HOOHAA setup and steering has been allot more responsive and less play in the wheel since I installed it. You also want to check your Compression/Tensoin rod bushings, or more-so the cheap metal cups they are seated into. once the cups wear out the rod will start to elongate the hole causing slight changes in alignment as you go over bumps. have a bearing race or a 2" pipe weled on both sides to keep them in place. To reduce the wear on the CV's you can get a diff drop kit form energy suspension(they used to make it for SLR). its not on their site but the part number should be arrond here if you search.

I'm having trouble deciding... what do yall think of the blackouts? I Originaly bought them when I found out my aftermarket lights had plastic lenses. I was weary of the durabily and ease of scratching vs Glass. But then I looked arround and realized over 75% of the vehicles arround me today have plastic lenses and maybe its not so bad. Plus I have to take the covers off @ night cause they dim the lights too much... I'm leaning towards just leavin em off (at least while I have a night job)

I'd like to see a vehicle with areotubine lined up next to the same vehicle with magnaflow(using all same diameter parts) and see If there is notable differance (other than sound). I'm kinda inclined to belive that magnaflow is the most bang for buck since it reduces and tune sound with now restriction in flow and that areroturbines whole "venturi effect" style muffler is just advertising. They state is lowers EGTs and engine temps too but any system that keeps less backpreassure than stock will do that and as long as its not too free flowing it will also give gains in performance and mpg. I'm not dissing your setup or anyone who wants to try it, I'm sure its great(and I'd love to hear it), I'm only wondering how much it stands above other brands.

I would say it can take up to 3 gallons to spray a vehicle your size with regular paint in a good thick coat. that being said, this durabak is prolly a bit thicker and I'm assuming your rolling it so I'd say @least 4 gallons. Edit: from their website; that would prolly come out to 3 gallons eh?

I thought all optima batteries were deep cycle batteries?

To bogle you more optima also makes a blue top.... http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_edge...nical_specs.php If you read the link you may find out what you need. The Jist I got was this; Blue tops average the most cranking and cold cranking amps. helps starting(Pathys turn over pretty easy so I don't think thats a big need) Yellow tops average the most capacity and reseve capacity over the others which is what will be used by a WINCH Red tops averaged higer cranking amps than the yellow but lowere in the other areas I assume they are the more affordable battery. Looking at only the 10" SAE post style batteries (stock style for pathy) It seems the yellow may be most suited for your needs but that doesn't mean a red won't . to be on the safe side you could always leave the engine Idle while winching to provide more power or have an Idle up control so that your alternator becomes the powerplant for the winch.

lol I noticed that too I dono whats up whith that.