MY1PATH

he already did that, with a paper clip. make sure the surface is sanded w/ 100-120 grit and cleaned really well. don't want the JB coming off in the tranny.

I'm wondering if the new swtich is as long as the old one? and if maybe the contact point in the tranny also wore down enough to where it doesn't reach the switch or a combination of both. Nice tool btw My reverse lights seem to only work consistantly once the tranny is warm (assuming worn parts not reacing far enoug when cold) so I'll be making one of those tools too on day.

stock you should be geared kinda low already, I know @ idle in HI mine goes about 3MPH (1st gear) most cases if I'm going slow up an obstacle I'll keep 900-1200 rpm without usind the clutch. If I need more torque thatn that @ a low speed I'll sift into low. @ Idle I know that my vehicle can can easily roll up a 6-8" curb in low so giving it a little gass I've been able to creep just tabout anywhere I been with out using the clutch too much. now if I'm being slower than that like parking on the log in current picture I'll use the clutch a bit. from what I've heard the OEM cluthces are pretty tough, I'd figure as long is your not buring it excesively (over 2000RPM when doing so) you should be ok. But I'm also just a beginner, so we'll say what others say as well. edit; wow I type slow! you can already see what others said b4 I finished^

I found a direct fit magnaflow cat on ebay for 70 bucks, I couldn't pass that up; I'm very happy with the results. they actually have a few on there now just search the part# 22765 for 86-89 pathfinders & HB 22760 for 90+ vg30 pathinders & HB list price is like 250 but you may find em for under 100 on ebay lately.

thats neat but what would that kinda thing cost and at 400 lbs each i'd have to be for a trailored vehicle cause I wouldn't wanna swap to tires all the time.

nah, you'll be alright. Grap a cluster of a junker or from ebay and steall a 4wd shifter from a nissan hardbody pickup and you should be ok. steering problems are common. I reccomend you go to grassroots 4x4 and order their upgraded centerlink when you do your tie-rods. this will make them last allot longer and improve driving feel. oh and welcome to NPORA!

x2 thats what I got, works fine.

It came in 87-9? VG30 and vg33 pathfinders and hardbodies and I thought it came in the 4x4 4bangers too It also cam in ?? 300zx but the rear of the tranny was differant so it wont bolt up to the t-case

I don't know about the other stuff but the sensor in the back monitors your rotation speed compared to the front wheels, under braking conditions it the sesnor finds the rear moving slower thant the front (ie about to lock up or locked) it will apply more braking to the front untill all 4 wheels are rotating the same speed again (but not locked up) congrats on going disc, thats something I wanna do 1 day.

you only need the 12 turbo studs, they are stronger than your old ones and should not fail. the thick washers are to help cope with thermal expansion as they expand with the manifold and the nuts wont. it recuces metal fatige on the manifold and stud/nut by tranfeing it into the washer. I dont know anything about the other 6 studs maybe somone else knows something about that. EDIT: oh yeh the flanges thats right, I got the turbo studs for my headders but my lower flanges used bolts so I didn't think of that!

I had a broken stud that was trapped in the mainifold heatsheild, it made all kinds of noise! now I have headders and all studs fixed

the the oil in the MC and the brake booster are totally independant. brake booster is tapered on the inside wide dowards the firewall and narrow towards the mc. there its a disc inside that rests against the firewall side untill you push the brake as the brake is pressed the disc moves to the smaller side and the gap arrount the disc becomes smaller thus increasing the vaccum and helping you push the peadal farther inward. lastly, all this action comes out the Booster thru a rod that presses into the MC.

my dodge stratus does a fan pattern and I like it!

2nd feels a little stiff when cold but it was always like that even with the old tranny. thanks guys, I'll get it nice and warm b4 I drain it both times.

lifters aint too bad. in http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422&hl=dyno&st=0 ://http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php...=dyno&st=0 you will see how the lifters come out. you obvously wont need to remove any belts or timing covers. just the manifold, valve covers and rockers.

so recently I read on here that GL 5 is bad for the nissan tranny, so I went to my car-port and looked @ the 5 gal bucket of 80w90 that I bought 2 years ago and it said GL 5 on it! The tranny was replaced 4 years ago @ 190k (I suspect it was under filling that made the syncros go out) and I am wondering if this tranny will be short lived because of my mistake Now having run GL 5 In this tranny for 2 years what are the negative impacts I should expect to see down the road? so now my paln is to buy some GL 4 (5.1L as per the Nissan TSB) run it for a week and then drain it to try and fulsh out/dilute whats left of the GL 5. And then I wanna treat my poor tranny to a full refil (5.1L)of Redline MT90 (GL 4) anyone got any better Ideas?

you need a 4.25" hole for yor hubs

there is one more option if your 2wd; allot of the 5spd 2wd pathfinders used a Borg Warner T5 yes, thats right, a mustang tranny. but really 88 is right about noting being better that the Nissan 5 spd as long as you keep it filled with 5.1L of GL-4 (not 3.6, see nissan TSB)

can't afford new lifters? abcnissanwholesale has em for $10ea IIRC. and since you can do it yourself why not it wont be much more than $120 for 12. don't forget to soak them in in oil and cycle them a few times b4 install. as far as additives, 1qt of lucas oil has always made my lifters shutup but then mine aren't so bad in the first place.

4.25 OD sounds too small... and from the JGC post yup too small see if they have some yota perches that might work, heck just give em the demtions above!

375 for the post runner. I think I'll do it sometime this winter. does anybody know if there is a w/d21 roll pan out there that I can put behind it so it looks cleaner?

on the other hand if you don't, an automatic locker is quite easliy intstalled wich povides better traction than lsd.

I'd try and get that from him. the oem pathfinder "bottle jack" has been the best oem jack I have ever used. the only downsides I have found is the narrow base(I'm just careful) and it won't fit under my car (lol duh its for the pathy). I even hooked a drill up to it for speed lifting (before I got a real floor jack)

thats pretty neat! I also saw their "post runner" back bumper and made an inquiry about it for the pathfinder.

I must say @ least in my case, when I did my reckles experamentation (on a barren road) I discovered that my brakes were not sufficent to slow me down very much untill I got below 80 I had to rely on smooth downshifting and engine braking to slow me down enough to feel like my brakes were actually helping. maybe 300+lbs of rubber, auluminum and driveline components rotating @ over 90mph is more than the stock brakes were designed to handle let alone the additional inertia of the 3500lb vehicle sitting on top of that. I didn't get any shakes or wobbles, but knowing my brakes don't seem to work to well @ high speeds has been enough to keep me from doing that again for now.