MY1PATH

I've had the MAF 2x I've cleaned it, tho I did that a few months ago too. and the wires are firmly attached. maybe the chip inside it failed or maybe something else grrr...

well, running same tests with same non concluive resuts I got mad and threw my foot into the pedal @ WOT It sounded throatyier than it ever had B4 (untill it hit 2800) don't know if this has to do with anything but I'd put it out there. also would a fuel filter cause a problem that is consistantly @ 2800? I changed it a year ago but???

yeh the spedo works, and I can't see any relation either. but I'm stumped. If ecu says eveything else is fine then why is it still acting up? I guess I'll just endure the costly process of replacing @!*% untill it works. on the brightside all the replaced parts will be less likely to fail.

ran mode 5 2x for 5 min reved it till it limited itself up but no indication from the ecu. Pulled out the seat, pulled out trim and carpet, pulled out ecu and checked all wires from the ecu to the firewall not shorts there. Ran mode 4 to check the TPS. TPS checked out fine but.... the green led did not come on over 12MPHNo with the 89 I thought the speed sesor was mechanical so does this apply? or is this the sorce of my problem?

having second thoughts about my impulse buy of the MAF, If it is realted to my timing experiment I'm thinking It might be the crank angle sensor....

LOL really? If your going to make a habbit of that just get front line-locks then you won't be using the back brakes when its turned on.

I think it checks MAF, TPS, and ignition systems. read the ecu self diagnostics post in the how-too's for more info.

good call, I'll try that tomorrow b4 work.

I pulled the MAF and it looked ok exept the pulg, so I cleaned the contacts. anyway all back together battery in and it still has issues. base ON what I've read here I'm thinking the MAF is dead and its in "limp mode" I've called every parts store and they don't have one. anybody got one? the jy motors here are picked clean. the 4cyl tbi MAF should work too, same throttle body and parts.ROck auto had one.... There goes all the money for my FAL 180 Black Magic Extreme Fan.

Its a possibility, I haven't ruled anything out. No CEL, No codes(55), and haven't been able to find a FSM for the TBI motor.

If thats the case maybe I'll splurge for the PYTHON MAF to go with my python injectors. I cleaned it a few months ago so I know it can't be dirty. Being that it still feels normal up to 2800, and there are no unusual sounds coming form then engine. do yall think its safe to to limp to work with it? 8 miles round trip 20-30mph and I normally shift @ 2g during this trip.

If thats the case maybe I'll splurge for the PYTHON MAF to go with my python injectors. I cleaned it a few months ago so I know it can't be dirty.

my supervisor worked @ sears auto for a while. he told me its common chain-automechanics practice to tell people thier ball joints are worn out. Since most people don't get under and look and because its sold with the line of "maintaining alignment and steering SABILITY" most people buy it.

well I tried the key and brakes with the battery out and either it didn't work, or something else is the problem. I thew in the towel for the night letting it sit till the morning unpluged, that should be more than enough. I seem to remember reading somewhere that on the tbi engine it does air/fuel based mostly on the MAF and some on the o2 sensor untill it reaches 2800rpm an then the o2 takes over. I don't remember where I read this, and it may have only been somones speculation but its a place to check. my o2 sensor is about 6 months old so unless its defective or pre-mature failure.... ahhhh! I'll just check some stuff tomorrow.

yup thats what I was thinking. Good Idea on the brake trick(learn a few things every day). Oh I just remembered, I'm gonna burn really rich again while my ecu re-learns my PYTHON injectors. It did that last time too. If this works, I'm gonna stick with 15 BTDC timing and 87/89 octane fuel. I have better ways to get allot more power planed for the future.

tonight I ran some errands, My pathy started up slow. HUH? after my first stop It started even slower and pulling outa the lot It suputterd @ 2800RPM. I pulled it over and free-reved it and it was as if it had a rev-limter set to 2800. to lay waste to my first suspision I pulled out the timing light and set it back to 15(what I'd been running for months) and tunred it off for a few min. It started slow but not as slow. I stopped by japanesse auto and the guy there said (inspite my experiment) it sounds like a MAF sensor. (he owns and loves an 89 HB, same motor). b4 replacing anything he said to set the timing back (done) and unplug it for a few hours to re-set it.(In progress) It started up normal after that but still won't rev over 2800. I'm starting a new thread "wont rev over 2800" incase the probem is unrelated. but I'm done with my Timing experiments untill I can prove its un-related. any ideas reply to new thread thanks, -jacobs

tonight I ran some errands, My pathy started up slow. HUH? after my first stop It started even slower and pulling outa the lot It suputterd @ 2800RPM. I pulled it over and free-reved it and it was as if it had a rev-limter set to 2800. to lay waste to my first suspision I pulled out the timing light and set it back to 15(what I'd been running for months) and tunred it off for a few min. It started slow but not as slow. I stopped by japanesse auto and the guy there said (inspite my experiment) it sounds like a MAF sensor. (he owns and loves an 89 HB, same TBI motor). b4 replacing anything he said to set the timing back (done) and unplug it for a few hours to re-set it.(In progress) It started up normal after that but still won't rev over 2800. This is a branch off of "advanced sprark timing for higer octane" but a new (hopefully unrelated) issue so new thread. I'm done with my Timing experiments untill I can prove its un-related. thanks, -jacobs

some good insight, I think I heard the LS1's run hotter too.

thats prolly why I hadn't seen it on allot of 4x4's save for the LandRollovers

Ok I turned up to 20(farthest I'm gonna go for now) drove it quite a bit more here and there and longer streches. Temps seem pretty much the same. MPG will be high this tank because where I've been driving so I'll have to wait till next tank to see any actual mpg benifit. I don't have any proof but I'd say it seems to be a little peppy on the highway compared to what it used to be. as far as ecu managed timing how much control over other engine functions did the TBI ECUs have? I think octane rating depends on allot of things and yes I agree a vast majority of it has to do with compression ratio but heres some food for thought... some old carb'd 350's can't run pump-gas on 11:1 CR but the LS1 (350) will run on midgrade if you tell it to But allots changed between the 2; fuel delivery, head design, combustion effeciency, ecu controlled coilpacks and fuel maping etc... and some sport bikes have like a 13:1 CR and still run off pump-gas.

don't forget to snag an HB grille, the lights sit in differant positions and there will be gaps if you use the pathy grille on the HB lights.

Determineing Octane Requirement If you scroll down to "7.4 What is the effect of changing the ignition timing?" You'll see what I'm trying to get at. Some time ago I installed a 55,000v ignition coil and moved my spark timing form 12 deg before TDC to 15. I noticed little impovement in power but a definate increase in MPG. with the current drop in fuel prices I decided to experiment some more based on the article linked above. I filled up with premium and set my timing to about 18. I then drove it in multiple RPM ranges up steep hills and put it under a few hard accelerations trying to see if i get a knock or hear any pining. So far no issues, 4th and 5th don't seem as weak as they used to be. It also feels like a can shift earlier and run lower RPM arround town. I didn't expect big results and was surpised I could notice any differance right off. I'll give a few more test drives see what comes maybe leave it for a while and see how it does on mpg. the floor is open; Ideas, Questions, Concerns, Warnings etc...

headlight cups; thats the one part I never see missing on a jy HB arrround here. I considered the conversion once so now I notice every time I'm in a JY.

I stumbled across this one day; Watt's Linkage and after reading up about it seems like it would give a solid axle allot more freedom to articulate vs. a panhard bar and keep it much more centerd while doing so. I seen em on landrovers and theres conversion kits for muscle cars out there but I havn't seen em on any other 4x4s It'd be an interesting thing to try I suppose

the early model pathfinders were a glorified carburator.(injectors instead of fuel tubes and venturi) using carb start will help. or try what I ususally do; turn the key to "run" but don't start it and leave it there for a few seconds you should hear the injectors spray.(mine only does it when its cold) if you tap the throttle a little to agitate the air/fuel(just added) in the manifold and then turn turn it to start it should turn over. On cold days (30 and under) I do this 2 or 3 times before trying to start the motor After doing that it always starts right up.