MY1PATH

did you actually read any of it? He cut open over a dozen filters: He anylized their filter elements by quanity, density and material composition. He looked at the holes thur wihch the oil gets in and out for possible souces of restriciton. he compared how the differant filter elments were caped on the ends (cardboard being a source of leaks arround the element and fibreous break down) he also looked @ the overpreassure bypass valves for when the filter gets too cloged(some of those leak too) now, granted the article is old and things may have changed since he wrote it. but give the guy some credit, this guy does not seem amateur.this guy put allot more time into exploring the physical characteristics of the filters and not just writing an "opionated article" he posted his findings too so if you don't like his reccomendations review his findings and decide for yourself or cut open another 20 filters and make an updated article.

so he needs a 4-3.75" backspace on the R50 If your gonna get new wheels I reccomend getting some 15x8. Its not reqired for 31x10.5 tires but it will make balancing easier as well as even out the footprint for longer treadlife

"backspacing" Is a measurement taken on the rim. It is the distance from the inside edge of the rim to the boltcircle. so a bigger number means your wheels stick out less. you can decrease backspacing(not reccmended by me) by adding wheel spacers or shims but you can only increase it by buying differant rims. If you are really concerned about it you can try differant wheels Hopefully somone on here with and r50 can tell you what backspacing provides the least rub. I trimmed a little off my fender flares and have "0" rub, but then my WD21 came stock with 31"(on 15x7" 3.75" backspace) and I don't know if that was an option for the R50.

maybe on the spendy side but I think there is "some fancy sequencing system" called Diff II fan controller that is designed for 2 speed fans and dual single speed fans.

go to the store, open a TG6607 if it has C2 stamped inside it the treads are the same as the TG3682 and TG3600. grab one, see if you think its too tall (if its a wider diameter then of course its a no go) thats the only way to know. if the TG6607 has something else stamped in it, keep opening boxes untill you see a taller one with the same stamp.

if your fluid looks the slightest bit dirty, or had been burnt from running too low of fluid. I'd say yes its worth it. (both apply to me rt now) as far as fluid type, I think power steering fluid is almost the same as ATF only without all the detergents and not as strict control of viscocity from brand to brand.(valvoline max life PS fluid is thicker than regular ATF).

don't know if this applies or not but some altys only charge above 18~20krpm untill then they just supply "enough" power to run vehicle and accesories.

sorta off topic but, if front diff is removed and the front driveshaft and CV's removed would it be safe to drive the vehcile in 2wd only (hubs pluged to keep the dirt out of course)I'm just wondering for future referance purposes.

I did read that(manytimes over the last few years), and it still has fram TOUGH GUARD on its reccomended list. which is what I use becuase its most redily available @ my store. I stay away from the other fram filter models. Heres a list of a few Other brands that fit the tg3600 aplication in sorted in order of quality;(assuming the VQ motors use the same thread pich (C2)) #1) Purolator PureONE - PL20195 2) Bosch - 3422 3) Mobil 1 - M1209 4) K&N - HP2009 5) Motorcraft - FL400S 6) FRAM Tough Guard – TG3600 (all other FRAM filters are inferior) If those are too tall the oe wd21 filter is about 1-1.5" shorter.

on my wd 21 I use a larger filter, Fram stamps a code for the tread diameter and pich next to all the threads on thier filters. "C2" in this case, I just started opening boxes untill I found a taller filter stamped C2 and the new filter PN was TG3600 (oe PN was TG3682). I traced that PN back to being for a 2000-2004 Ford foucus among many other vehicles. So Now I have a vehcle to cross reference Oil filter PN's if I wanna go for another brand.

I did, but the mechannic showed me that I was testing the harness backwards(I tested 3 wrong wires), testing correctly revealed that the injectors were not returning the correct voltage. If injectors don't solve it ECU is my next step. On the bright side while I'm waiting for my injectors I'm gonna install my e-fan.

your right but I think it kinda impies that it could happen the other way. I'm gonna do injectors firs and see what happens

here's the article that suggests my old ecu may be bad. I did not know the injectors had to be tested cold(physically cold) and when tested properly their resistance was wrong. so they may have damaged the ecu which may lead to more problems.

oops lol I saw the pic on another site and thought it was good design. but I guess unless the frontiers use same idler its a no-go. lol guess I gotta look b4 I link lol I still vote for the calmini design tho

if it lines up I'd ream it. but if I had any doubt I'd send it back. I do not like AC's design. I think it may be weaker. calmini and total chaos make better ones IMO http://www.chaosfab.com/nissanaccess.html

In theroy yes but its not the high voltage side that had an issue it was the 12v. The higer voltage coils put more load on the 12v side too, insde are 2 coils of wire arround a ferous bar. one is chaged with 12v and when it is discharged the engergy (elctrons) is tranferd to the other coil of a differant winding via the electron energy in the ferous bar which then generages the energy(voltage) for the spark. The voltage is determined by the differance in the 2 windings and the potential of the ferous bar. Differant windings, differant electrical load. HIGER elctrical load more demand on the ignition module/transitor. the mechanic says 55,000 is too hot for stock electrical but fine for MSD (still gonna get the 40). If anybody wants to run a hotter coil on stock ignition I recomend a stock 240zx or 300zx coil, Its hotter coil that runs on the same ignition modules/transitors as the wd21 pathfinders so it wont be too hot for the electrical sytem. and Its plug and pay!(same harnes) well the mchanic pulled up a mechanics buliten off the internet about early nissan ecu's "code 51" was his search term I belive. I'll post the article when I get off work but I think it said someting about injectors failing and the ecu being damaged from one injector fail causes it to damage future injectors. I'm sure the article details it better than I can but it seems that if I don't want to be in the habit of repacing injectors(this will be my 3rd pair) a re-man ecu is in order. I know some of you have TBI ECU's you might sell but I'm gonna go the reman route because I think I need the California Specific ECU as my pathy is a CA emissions model not a federal emissions model. again I'll try to get the article up to night.

that may or may not be why the transitor went out, it is the spark voltage were talking about and muscle car guys but huge (bigger than mine)coils in all the time. I just chose what seemed like a basic low cost coil. armed with a little more knowledge I'm gonna chose a smaller one when I do my MSD down the road. The mechanic replaced the transitor and continued running tests... my python injectors are sending the wrong voltage back to the ECU, I am picking the vehicle up and I will put basic reman or used injectors back into it. He said he has no way of telling w/o new injectors but he hopes this wrong voltage did not cause permenant damage to the ECU. so... Injectors... LOL *sigh*

well the mechaninc & I discussed a few things... like having perfomace injectors on an old N/A motor of stock displacement and how a shorter duty cycle (to keep from running too rich) can increase the resistance(heat) in old wires. and also how a 55,000v coil may be a little to hot (ignition transitor went out while they were trouble shooting the injecotr circut) and a step down to an MSD 40,000v coil (with MSD hi 6 box) in the near future is reccomended. that does not mean we have difinitive results, we were just discussing possible causes of problems... If I had to guess I'd say the stock coil was 28-30,000v on the spark side? anybody know for sure?

been there done that, you get a $#!t ton of wheel hop spinning in reverse that you can feel thru the whole vehicle until it randomly grips on dry spot and when it griped it gipped hard, jolt!

well yesterday I took it to my mechanic and today they said "well we know allot of things that its not" so I feel better about myself being stuck on it but worse @ the same time cause thats more time(my$$) they have to spend on it.

I do notice that if I start up below 40 it does not want to run 3rd @ 20mph(it groans) and will not accelerate but as soon as the needle starts to move I can shift into 3rd @ 20mph (speedlimit on my street) and it does fine and even accelerates.

Check your abs sensors? I'm guessing be one near the bearing on your front wheels and one in your rear drivesaft

the buttons in my 89 lit up and they got brighter and dimmer with brighness knob for the guage cluster. I wish my aftermarket stereo would do that.

makes sense to me

I'd be interested in being a guineapig with with my VG30i if I had a spare ecu to try it on. Its my daily driver so once I get it fixed I can't go bricking it again without a backup. I know 4x4parts/JWT do this for ecu's but I don't wanna run premium and I've also heard their programs burn a little on the rich side. If it saves me gas great! if it adds power too even better. If it cost gass but adds power I may let somone else try it.