MY1PATH

I think NAPA can order a universal aftermarket module. I don't remember the pice but dad got one for his volvo some years ago. I liked it and its on my things to get list. the function is uniqe i think it went like this; when you use your single wipe function it works like normal single whipe if you do it again within the next 11 seconds it sets the interval to whatever the delay was between the 2 a third time shuts it off and a 4th sets new intervall(w/in 11 sec) etc..... so if you get a mist and do a single and its back in 5 seconds you hit it again and now it goes every 5 seconds.

thanks

WOW too many replies to fast! lol I am interested and this may have been covered but I didn't read all the replies. what about designing one that has a solid poly on the frame side(like oe) and a Johnny on the axle side. I'm not well versed in this sort of thing but I would think the whole link does not need to pivot just one end under flex(and johnnys do that more than most others) I would also think that having a solid poly on the frame side would help its high speed road maners vs. having a johnny on each end. YES? NO? or is that just totally not a concern?

for the vg30i I reccomend keeping pipe diameters down to 2.25 max with 2.0 as being optimal for non-poping exhaust and low end torque. If your running stock 1.875" pipe then I guess something else is the cause.

with final ratios of 4.3 & 4.6 and low geared trannys I would stay away from using 1'st in any engine breaking.

did that thing work out ok after you got a new tensioner? anyway have you checked your voltage @ the bulb? plug the bub (to get accurate voltage drop) and back probe the connector with a multi meter. automotive "12v" bulbs are rated @ 13.5v above 14 volts will shorten its life 14.5+ you may have and alternator problem. 11.5 or lower will shorten its life too and you may want to consider installing a direct battery realy.

on nissan4wheelers.com there is a choped pathy. He cut it from the triangle window back and bedlinered it. I think his handle it von sas or something like that.

did you mark the oreientation before you dissasembled? try un-bolting it from the 3rd member and rotating it 90degees...

reducing exhaust pipe diameter can reduce this condition, if its happening in the exhaust pipe.

4x4 parts has new bushings or u can buy pre-assembled links from nissan. have you checked your panhard rod?

I belive its possible; poor timing can = incomplete burn of fuel. does the exhuast smell like gas? Have you run any ecu tests? (search "self diagnostic") do you have a multimeeter? You could unplug your injector harness(its above the rt hand valve cover) and ohm the injectors. they should be ~1.5 ohm; test them dead cold or your results may vary.

yeh those came up recently but @ 400lbs a track... 1,600lbs more weight to move, even if it is absolute traction, is asking allot of pathy on the trail. usually product photos are generic to that product; 1 picture for all bolt patterns.

I think A timing light can be aqquired for 10-20 bucks @ the parts store. the process is fairly simple; look at your harmonic balancer (your main pulley) there should be tick marks on it. mark the fist one(which is 0 degrees) with a bright color paint pen each mark clockwise from there is 5 degrees. mark 10 and 15 degrees for reference. start enggine and let it warm up, hook the light up to the battery and the 3rd wire w/ the clip goes over the #1 spark wire, pay attention to the arrow on the clip (usually points towards plug not cap) with the engine warm A/c and all other electrical compnents off point the light down @ the harmonic balancer. there will be a tab or arrow sticking out from your timing cover that hovers over this wheel. If the light makes it appear centered between your reference marks you should be ok. if its not losten the screw @ the base of your distributor and turn it one way or the other untill the timimg is correct. carefully tigthen it, it may try to turn as you do so. rev the engine a few times and double check the reading. ALL THE WHILE BE CAREFULL OF MOVING PARTS THE LIGHT WILL MAKE THEM APPEAR STATIONARY.

not that it matters, but didn't you crank your t-bars pretty hard? I'd consider that lifted.

I see those have holes for grease fittings I see you also sell the calmini, do the new calmini UCA's come with grease fittings?

seems kinda scrabled but maybe this will help... I also have a black terminal that is attached via the battery wire bolt. the 4 wire plug has 4 wires that criss-cross over into 2 wires in another plug and I have no clue why, it is very odd but I know it is stock because me & dad are original owners. one goes to my inhibit relay(starter) and I can't remeber where the 2nd one goes to.

yes, drivers side. be gentle witth the wires inside the sensor. A q-tip and little alchol and a gentle wipe should do. how's your spark timing? the TBI motors are sopposed to run @ 12 BTDC. If thats correct and it sitll dies after you let it down form a rev try ajusting you"dash-pot" I think its called. this controlls how fast it drops in revs.

I have my hoses running fwd arround the motor mount and then back to the tranny x-member to avoild my headders. I also run a slightly larger filter. I think its about a qt or 2/3 more with all the hose I'm running.

ever try puting a winter skirt on it or a block/coolant heater?

x2 I went for a joy ride open headder and open cat. both times the power band felt like it might be somwere really high above redline because it was almost dead under 3500rpm. but I did manage to beat a few local V8's in a screaming match lol but now I'm not all about big pipes anymore so sadly my pathy is quieter. I'll stick with my long tube headders 2" magnaflow and a wheel well dump.

does it smell rich? could be the injectors... you can also clean your MAF and replace your 02 sensor just incase I'm on my 3rd set of injectors (don't buy python). each failure led to a rich condidion (or worse w/ the pythons)

umm stock pipes are 1.875, I have some in my living room FYI magnaflow makes a direct bolt on cat that sells on e-bay for arround 80 bucks quite often. stock cat restricts 4-6hp magnaflow drirect fit resrticts 2hp (normally found on ebay for 20-30% of retail value) magnaflow metalicore; 1hp (not cheap) testpipe 0hp (and illegal) search the part number on ebay 86-89; 39765(50 state) 90-95; 22760 (49 state)& 39760 (ca)

no codes, and 2" or 2.25 should be fine.

x2 I thought a rear just points foward. anyway, my pathy has always had about an inch, I considered it to keep it form being jerky @ speed. when I installed a HooHaa CL the play went down some and the response quickened but its not jerky either.

bottom, center. my cluch fluid is dirty(& full) the drips are clean.