MY1PATH

thats normal. It takes a sec or two for Oil preassre to rise when you first start the engine.

could it have someting to do with the TBI Fast Idle cam? In pos 2(fast idle 1) it runs @ 900rpm and in fast idle 3(no mark) it runs @ 1100rpm. Or the fact that TBI motors have a "stove pipe" coming up from my header directy into the intake that shuts of outside air untill the intake reaches a certain temperature.? Both those factors speed warm-ups. I don't know what devices the MPFI engines have to aid warming up.

x2 electronics are not my strength but I'm curious

then ya your psi may be about 8 psi low, A 300zx oil pump(its been done before) will provide higher psi (60-70 IIRC) or you chould just change your oil slinger the next time you do a timing belt.

IME I seem to get better MPG if I let the motor warm up b4 driving it. I know it sounds wierd burning gass to save gas but it takes very little to idle a motor and it uses allot more to drive it @ low opperating temps. I wait till temp needle has moved about an 1/8 of an inch before I drive it in the cold and I still get about 13.5-14MPG on my 3-4 mile drive home versus when I used to just jump in and drive(12mpg or worse) and the needle barely moved by the time I get home from work.

x2the 4x4parts cams are actually JWT s1 & s2 cams. IMO the specs on both of them breathe too well for bottom end but are great for midrange and up. If anyones interested here is A cam card with the specs for the custom grind I will one-day be getting for my vg30i Its basically 252/248 in/ex duration (frist 2 #s) with .45/.42 in/ex lift(2nd to last 2 #s) the other #'s define overlaps & lobe center locations. the exhaust duration is stock and the intake duration is longer to compensate for the TBI manifold the exhaust lift is the same as the JWT/4x4parts S1 cam but the intake is .03 higher.(compensating again) It is my belief that this grind will offer only a mild increase starting @ lower rpm and coming all the way up as opposed to a larger increase starting higher up in the RPM range. If my motor was MPFI I think I would match intake and exhaust durations @ 250/250 with .45/.45 lift because the MPFI manifold is much better there is no need to compensate.

OK. HERE GOES, HOPE I GOT IT ALLunplugged battery-reset ecu disconnected O2 sensor inspected O2 sensor (3 months old I think) tested the injectors traced the wirebundle back to the firewall looking for bad wires tested the MAF cleaned the MAF Tested the TPS Tested the CAS took apart the CAS looking for foretgn objects checked and topped off the oil tested engine harnes for injectors tested engine harness for MAF tested engine harnesses for TPS tested engine harnesses for CAS ran ecu mode 4 & 5 for TPS MAF & Ignition replaced fuel filter ECU mode 3 eventually gave code 51 injector circut tested ECU harnesses for continutity injector circuts 101, 102,114 failed found melted wire under Pos.Batt termal boot & replaced all aged wires in that connector(4 total) problem not solved codes 51 and 101, 102, 114 are still bad. re-set ecu one last time.... gave up and limped it to my mechanic.

no, what would that do? IF you know something you think I should please enlighten me. It reads temps just fine and I aleady found problems with the injector circut, I just can't pinpoint them.

we sometime use this stuff called OXOL 100 @ work this stuff metls thru golves and soaks thru paint suits. anyway I was checkign out storage and the 5 gallon can was not fully in the flamelocker. so I kicked it enough to close the door.............. some jackass had left the entire lip of the can filled with it rather than mopping it up and disposing it.(big safety writeup) and it splashe all in my eyes and face. it was pretty bad, my face & eyes burned and I couldn't see right for a few hours after washing very thurougly.

from my haynes manual do you have an oil filter relocation kit? the extra travel can lower preassure a little

x2 on that, sometimes I wear safety glasses just to get under there... cause whatever I grab on the vehicle to help pull me under is covered in dirt and it usually falls in my face.

these are easier to read! thanks, I think I'll show em to my mechanic cause I can't for the life of me find the problem in the circut. maybe hell have one of those testers you plug into the wire and it tells you where it breaks or stops when you run the other end over the outside of the wire.

this already came up and there were links posted.... *checks favorites* http://www.oznium.com/flexible-5mm-led-dome http://autolumination.com/194.htm there ya go! Nice avatar BTW, I like it as much as Fukinitupagain's avatar

looks like fun! you could goto a machine shop and have them CLEAN it with a ream. should be able to do it by hand and only be a few bucks if any. ^ or any of the above since I type slow ^

I think the wires are differant for differant years because the colors listed on doughboys paged don't match my underhood wire colors... redpath I think I might need those '89 FSM pages about the injector circut and injecotr safetey realy. do you think you could post them?

I do not think the windows are on a realy, the fact that the switches on my 89 have some pretty heavy guage wire soldered to them is what leads me to belive this. But being older mine might be differant. have you taken the door panel off so see if the motor is burned up? or if the glides on the track have broke leading the cable all tangled(leads to motor burn up)? If thats it and you replace it don't go OEM. the ones sold by "car parts" on ebay have a pulley instead of a glide and will likely last much longer.

that is a good question, I set timing to 15 when I installed the coil (negbor reccomended 3 degrees with any HEI coil) so I don't know if the advance, the coil or both helped my mpg. I used a very basic timing light but I should be getting my own one soon, and I think it has a digital advance as well as a tach so I can ajust for variances. I will have to try that out when I get it.

guys I thank you all for the help, I feel my self running out of steem trying to fix my beloved pathy (that I prolly broke). with not results to prove exactly what is causing failsafe mode (exept lack of continutiy to 101, 102 & 114 on the ecu harness) and tons of money spent on "maybe its that part" (they still havn't come and I was paniced and foolish when I ordered)I think I'm gonna return all the parts, get my money back and the I think I might go to a japanese auto specialist or "total performance" here in tacoma as they have done me fair and well since I got here. EDIT: I put everything back together, pulled it out of the shop ran self diagnostics 1 more time: 51 Injector Circuit. (finally it tells me something) so I know my injectors work, and the those 4 pins above lacked proper continutity... I'm so close but so far away. electrical is not my strong point I've checked all the harneses and looked for the obvous along the way. should I start un-wraping wire bundles? Safety relay???"W/L" connector??? Tell a mechanic my findings and have them deal with it?

sorry, had you moved it back the first time? I though I was losing it lol. I just didn't want to start page 3 out with seemingly un-helpful info since I already checked all plugs. I'm prolly getting a little odd cause this is the worst problem I've had with the pathy, its my daily driver and I was planning on driving it to cali. *sigh*Moving on, http://www.bitemedoughboy.com/pdf/EFEC89.pdf I get no voltage on 101, 102 & 114 it says to disconnect battery "W/L" connector (what is that? there's 3 connetors coming from batt+ and none look like the pic) AND safety realy, not sure which that is either. I re-checked injectors @ the harness and I must had bad connetion on one and my fingers or someting touching on the other cause both OHM'd out 1.4-.16

ok pulled my truck into the shop (nothing happens when I work weekends so I can do w/e) MAF checked out ok under the hood (didin't do ecu harness continuty) CAS checked out good, Injectors.... My brand new PYTHON injectors? NO! I want another opion; from the FSM EF & EC-89 (thanks doughboy) the passenger side read .9-1.2 ( .6-.2 low) the driver side raead 1.7-1.9 (.2-.4 high)(EVEN SAID 2.0 FOR A SEC)those were bad readings from the wrong place NOW WHEN THE FSM SAYS APROXIMATELY I'M THINKING 1.4-1.6 FOR VARIANCE IN THE MUTIMETER. I just put these in are they really the culprit or am I being too picky? 1 year waranty... I guess It can't hurt to swap em out. If I do I think I'll go with NEIGHOF this time I don't really need performance injectors.

I don't have time to check stuff with a meeter right now but I as soon as I can oil, I hadn't checked. But I changed it last month...BRB.... the Oil Level was below the dipstick, I added about 1 QT for it to show 1/3 on the dipstick. (huh? it's never burned or leaked maybe I was a mororn last month?) the Oil Color Had a good light bronze/gold color to it. what are you thinking as far as the oil? Is my oil light broke too? or does it only come on when its worse than that? I'm let it warm up and see what happens....nope still being stupid. I'm limp it to work and get into it with a voltmeter there. BITEMEDOUGHBOY does your FSM say anyting about the VSS being a cause for the fail-safe-system?

A Higer power ignition coil and enen an MSD ignition module would do some good. If your exploring the area of timing to get more efficiency out of your higer octane you do so at your own risk. I ran 15 degrees BTDC on my TBI motor (factory is 12) without an issue and I had good results and no drawbacks. I think pushing it farther may have hurt it. (went to 20) your MPFI engine runs 15 BTDC from the factory I would not push it more than 3 Degrees beyond factory specs (18 BTDC)

New Fuel filter did not solve the problem Thanks for the FSM pages. hopefully my MAF comes in tomorrow and I can put it in @ work

I'll try it, but it stops exactly @ 2800 under any throttle condition. hard rev slow rev I'd think it would happen sooner @ a harder rev if it were the fuel filter my currend one is 1 year old. but again, I'll try it OMW to CSK AUTO now.

I noticed when I pulled the ecu to check wires that there was another plug on the harness that was capped off. What is that for? Nissan dealers? Auto tranny? is it possible a part of the ecu that was fighting the timing got cooked and thats keeping it in "limp mode"