MY1PATH

Did you check your vacum motors? ie Egr valve might have a crack in it diafram, dash pot leaking, cruise control diafram, brake booster other vacum controlled devices? I dono, just thought

No it will not help or harm your current alignment problem the idler arm stands opposite of your pitman arm (from the steering box) It makes sure your passenger wheel turns just as much as the driver wheel when you turn the wheel. The Idler arm Brace re-enforces this arm so it does not bend, twist or shear when forces of the offroad (or pothole) try to make one wheel do something differant.

If you plan on staying 2wd then go for it. I've heard You'll need to run the glass fenders form 4x4 parts but you may get away with some trimming instead. for the rear I would go to a triangulated 4 link long arm system like stevo has. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...56&hl=jonny

follow whatever the manufacture reccomends. the intenal valving and fluid dynamics is effected by gravity so most shocks are designed to ride one way or the other. not both.

Jim Wolf technology can re-program your ecu, I think you can do it thru 4x4 parts too. the re-programed of "flashed" ecu's have a differant fuel map but I don't think there are any timimg enhancements. the only way to get better igniton would be to install an MSD igniton box.

I had this problem some time ago, I used no heat; take 2 heavy hammers. (sledges would work great) PB BLAST and a pickle fork(tapered end separater) too. 1 givie it Good soak of PB BLAST 2 Positon one hammer against the side of the arm to use as a "bucking bar" and give the opposide side several good smacks with the second hammer. You are not beating the arm off, you are sending a shock thru it and the splines to help it break loose and for the PB to penetrate better. 3 slide the pickle fork in above the arm and drive it in with the hammer 4 if the arm does not budge in a few swings, leave the fork wedged in place (if it will stay) and repeat steps 1&2 I went thru steps 1&3 twice before I could get the arm to come off. But my pathy seems to be really nice to me as far as not having allot of stuck hardware so it may take several more tries on your end.

if the bearings are all seated then get a pair of vice grips large enough to grab the axle. clip em on and have sombody pull the axle toward the hub untill it comes out far enough for the snap ring. You may also try a thinner snap ring.

Frist of all let it be known that Heims are illeagal for steering it falls under "Illegal to modify factory steering system on a street driven vehicle in any way" That being said ppl still run HooHaa centerlinks and calmi steering systems etc... to do the heim mod you need to get heims with a bushing ID that is equal to the widest part taper on your CL and Knuckle. You can use a smaller heim with a bushing pressed into your CL and Knuckle but since the TRE holes need to be reamed to the largest diameter of the taper you Might as well use a heim that size. Ream the tapers out and Install heim with a misalignment bushing under it using a nut and bolt. Connect the heims with an ajuster and find sombody to align it.

your best bet for ease of transition would be to put a vg33 in there. and for a little more go install some new or re-conditoned vg30 cams in the vg33(the 33 cams were smaller) heads and all new lifters. you should see a minimum 10% improvement all all arround. and its the same block so no adapters needed.

It wouldn't be secret If I told every one.

I always hear a hiss (when running) on my back left side when I'm outside my vehicle. I'm sure its the fuel pump.

empty tobasco bottle from an MRE lighter pin for my jack handle mathces marble w/ a snake on it coins washers brass ring engraved T.I.M.E.(acryonym; see if you can understand the scribblings below from high school) T I M E I S M Y E N E M Y

there is no harm in using LSD oil in an open diff becasue there are no friction specific parts to damage. CAN ANYONE see any harm in running redline MT90 in the TX10 instead of ATF?

this has been the most recource ever in working on my 1989: I have so far used it to guide me thru a full disc brake teardown/ re-buid(including disc parking brake), as well as a t-case re-buid(in progress) and many other things. plus its on computer so I can alway print more pages whenever the one I'm reading gets greasy.

are you talking for the 720 pickup? I don't think there is much support for that aplication.

I'd be more than slightly, that the same motor nissan used in a formula car; 13:1 compression ratio!

Heres a larger version http://www.off-road.com/dirtsports/article...p;sk=&date=

I guess not all older nissan trucks were lacking in power.

if you don't want it I bet you can get rid of it in less than a week if you post it on NPORA

the 2wd tranny will not bolt to the t-case, so your looking @ a tranny swap too.(I think that will be the hardest part) tranny, t-case, front diff wheels hubs & possibly steering knuckles, gears if the 2wd is geared differant thatn your front diff.... electrical if you want the green light to work... I think you've got all the parts you need, but it may be a lengthy project. I hope you have a freind or 2 to help out.

you can align the crank by using an appropriate sixed wrench on the snout. and the cam gears should turn by hand if you need to move them w/ the belt off.

idle should be about 800 and fast idle(cold) should be 1100-1200. your fast idle screw may be ajusted too far so that its interfering with normal opperation.

My ca model only has one cat, I think a P.O. prolly had trouble with emission and thought that would fix it, I knew a kid who's dad put 5 cats on for the very same reason. 1 magnaflow cat and 1 magnaflow 2" or 2.25" mufler should do you fine

when I get my post runner bumper I'm going to relocate my plate to the tire carrier latch so that pulling back the licence plate opens the carrier. I'll have to add a 2nd pivot point(for the latch handle.) so that I don't bent the latch lever by accident.

x3