MY1PATH

that might look good on black.

Kingman is rigth they do seem to lack quality control. Not all of them come that way but I have seen the "quarter sized hole" complaint on several nissan boards. Its like they mised the final ream after the welding was complete.

yep he's a pretty good guy to us here. Helped me with more than a few hard to find OEM parts.

didn't jjbigshoe do the jeep console?

It could just be the light but does it seem like the rockers and springs get darker toward the back? The first one looks nice and golden from heat and oil but its also in the sun. cyl 3 exhaust is kinda in the sun and it looks brown. I'm not saying there's anything wrong(cause I don't know) Just wondering if it means anything or is caused by anything? Loose valve sleves? More heat toward the rear of the block?

Wow it is narrow. do you have a compairson of the ve to the sohc ? If they are the same width then routing exhaust shouldn't be too bad. It would also be cool if they had the same exhaust manifold configuration. then you could run thorley long tubes (made for the 86-89 path v6)

you could try it, but the VE isn't very common. you'd have to be sure it is narrower than the VG30de beacuse that won't fit, its too wide. You might have better luck swaping the short block of a vg33. in stock form its 180/210. but put some re-conditioned 3.0 camshafts in the 3.3 heads and may be more like 200/220 or more.

I'd get your ac system inspected/seviced first. my 89 blows like a fridge on the hottest of days. and if you rund it on recirc it will eventually give you goose bumps...

and easier to install than the moog

Based on what I found on other forms and being that there is no recent info I'll assume that the VECTON solved the problem. I'm going to load up with some enery suspension grease(or similar thick stuff) and see what happens. I'm mounting them on a freshly powdercoated spare set of spindles so I can always put my stock UCA's back on in less than an hour(+alignment) and if they start to creak I'll ad zerks when I pull them and modify them to clear the fat rancho 9000's. that way on the initial instal/ beak in I won't be doing anything to void their (already weak) coustomer support. Once I know all is well and I'm ready to go-rancho up front I make a decision.

I was thinking that but if I do it that way I'm gonna make it a big deal; drill and tap thru the weld or thru the side of the 3/8 plate so its closer to center and route grease canals so it goes arround the bushing and maybe port the bushing so it gets to the sleve... edit; just found this on http://www.automotiveforums.com/t174242.html I always have tri-flow, I used to be a bike mechanic and I swear by that stuff for daily use on bike chains(other choice lubes for other parts) and this:

Ok, I been wondering, I Got my Calmini's today and I've seen allot of complaints on severla sites about the squeak. All posts dating late '06 or older. My calmini "vecton" bushings are black not green and I'm wondering if calmini has solved the issue or if ppl just stopped complaining and no newer buyers have bothered to mention. I'm considering zerks, but I wanna decide b4 I do the install so I don't have to undo it later to add them. I guess I'll start with some high viscosity, waterproof grease from boaters world and see how that does.

the Innner seal(one in the axle housing) Is the one you need to replace. It keeps your gear oil inside your rear end and out of your axle bearings and brakes etc... The outer seal(req. bearing removal) Is not worth the time and effort and will not stop your oil leak. It just keeps the grease in your bearings. when you change your inner seal be sure to pack allot of grease into you axle bearing esp since leak most likely diluted your existing grease. maybe take a grease needle if you have one and try and squirt some in deeper.

I just did this and posted about it.I used A Softer 3" lift spring for MY wd21 They were 3" xj springs from rough country. They are about 5% are softer than stock and 19" tall. they gave me 3.25" before settleing the gap in the rear used to be the same as the gap in the front. see how much they lifted. Because they are so soft I would think that the ammount of lift gained would vary from pathy to pathy. and the heavier 4 doors might not bee too happy.

Well today I made 1" drop brackets In preparation for my Rancho 9112's because when I was simulating the drop of a 26" shock it tugged a litte on the cables and tore thru one of my rubber cable loops. The right one is just a piece of 1" square stock with 2 holes drilled in it and the left one is an L braket I made with 2 pairs of holes 1" apart. I finished off the brakets with Keystone Undercoat, its the toughest stuff I've ever seen come out of a rattle can. 4/25/09... and the the brake hose fitting as well;

I thought it was 3/8 drop. I know its been done on a w/d21 I just can't remember where I saw it. I would say if your are running low profile bumpstops to get more out of your aftermarket uca's that it would be a good Idea. they're only 40 or 50 bucks aren't they?

I would try changing your fluid, Use api GL-4 (GL-5 might damage your cyncros) and give it 5.1L thru the shifter hole. Nissan Mis-located the fill hole thus only allowing 3.6(1.5L too low). I would try that first and see if it helps any. Also check the dust boots under the sifter boot. If the floor pan boot is not arround the neck of the shifter-ball-boot it could be pressing on the shifter just a little. Nissan MT Technical service buletin

THEY ARE LED.LED's are not some new High tech thing, they have been arround for decades, It is only recently thaty they are becoming more popular. and Technology has been able to make them brighter too. I installed one on my 89, It came from a jy 94. I have seen others that are as well. the wd21 third brake lamps pop up in e-bay and junk yards. too keep your color matching just unscrew the fixture from the door and then unscrew the LED module from the fixture (its one long red piece with like 30 led's in it) take your donor module and put it in the fixture and connect the small wire harness and your rear bug-juice hose and your done.

your on N4W right? did you tell them about it?

thanks for the info, a few guys on N4W run em too but they all have their springs wired so they don't fall out(ford and JGC) I know that won't be my problem. How's your bottom out? was it effected @ all. 9112 has a longer compressed length; I wouln't want to damge the shock (like jumping)if my bump stops wern't tall enough. I guess I'll just have to get them and do some controlled compression tests w/ a cargo strap to see where my bumpstops are at when the shock is @ bottom.

just did it myself. Very easy swap. I even re-built the parking brake drum inside the disc b4 installing (also easy if you have FSM). I found my donor parts @ a JY for $80 it had brand new pads on it too! Tools and parts came to less than $100 for my whole swap. one axle comes out another one goes in, bolt up and bleed. DONE! I followed NissanNut's guide. http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/ with only a few differences; No e-brake mods needed for wd21 Had hardlines to swap(makes it easier) replaced inner oil seals. Chiseld of dust shield @ the spot welds instead of grinding(looks cleaner) and you don't really need the rubber rings the keep the parking bake to your trailing arms. so if the donors don't fit (tubular arms vs. "I" beam arms) just cut those loops off. Also no MC change is required! parts stores list 2&4 disc versions but they are the same and Nissan has the same PN for both disc and drum rear ends. EDIT; almost forgot lol. Braking Is MUCH Better! The pedal feels fimer and you feel the baking much sooner in the stroke. be-careful the impovement may surprise you.

Another good option is to use the xj 3" lift springs from Rough Country Suspension PN 9262. After cutting the pigtail off the coil stands 19" tall and they gave my '89 3.25" of lift. The spring rate is aprox 5% LESS than stock.(softer ride) Because this spring is so tall compared to the other options Increased wheel downtravel can be had by running a longer shock than you could run with the other lift spings because the coil will not fall out.

Because my springs are 19" and most others are (exept f100) are arround 17" I imagine I might be able to get more downtravel if I go with an even longer shock than most use on a 3" lift. Been doing allot of reading on N4W about shocks. I know normally the rancho 9116 is run for the 3" travel but being as my coils are so long I think I'm going to try the 9112's which are 2" longer. I measured my shock mounts w/o the shock in place and @ 27" eye to eye my springs are not loose enough to come out. @ 26" it starts pulling on e-brake so I'm gonna make that my limit. 9112's are 26" extended 9116's are 24" extended 9118 & oem 23" extended

what happened to all those people who said they would be prepared this time? Oh well, if I wind up getting refunded I'll just have 2 buy my post runner bumper and unveil my super seceret gadget that I made to go with it.

brush guard only, I belive you have to run the outer bumper bolts thru it. there is a rare winch version(I missed out on one) that has aditional anchors where your tow hook(s) go. I sticks out a little more and features a winch plate & cutout for a fairlead.