MY1PATH

BOTH BL and an SL more than 3" will reqire extended parking brake lines. MY 3" lift I used 26" socks and @ full drop I needed to relocate my e-brake mounts 1" lower as well as make a tab to move the Rear brake t-fitting up 1" from the axle. if you use 24" shocks (normal for 3" lift) you will not need this.

Just a thought, how b'out some LARGE fender washers to distribute the load and prevent such a possibilty

the Stock XJ-C's provided no lift to my knowledge. My stock springs were tired and sagging and I think all it did was return me to stock height.(good question tho) The RC 3" XJ-C's lifted me about 3"(after beak-in sag) compared to the stock XJ-C's. I'm pretty sure it would be 3" anyway you look @ it because my Pan-hard bracket I exactly 3" higer on the frame side than the axle side. (still working on the drop bracket) With the TM lift you are looking @ 4" correct? If your are looking to replace that spacer w/ more spring I would start looking into the RC 4" XJ-C springs. Being a taller spring RC may have even had them made w/ a more desireable spring rate. Keep in mind that even tho you will be eliminating the spacer the lenght of shock for a 4" lift may still limit you up-travel, so leaving the bump spacer on or using a smaller one @ the very least may be adviseable to protect your shock from bottoming. You can call RC & they have all the spring specs on hand, If the spring rate is not more than 155 I would think it would be too soft for the TM kit causing exessive body roll. Good luck, hope it goes smoothy and hope the result is what you are looking for if you try it.

The bottom perch is stepped so the end of the coil can rest in it so I figured the flattest side should go up and so my cut end is down. Also cutting just the pigtail is not going to create enough heat to relive the temper of the entire spring maybe only 3" from it at best if you use a cutoff wheel and none if your stubborn and use a hacksaw. have fun with your comanche springs.

I'm pretty sure the T-case and front diff vent into the tranny where the exess preassure can escape thru the 5 spd control lever. But that may be just specific to my 89 Cali emissons model.

Wow thats a long way for some stray T-case oil to travel. Are you sure its T-case oil? If it is there there must be some preassue in there, pull the fill plug and the vent line where it attches to a hardline @ the x-member and blow thru the vent line. If you can't then its clogged like bowtied said. If you added to the tranny the only way it would effect the t-case is if your t-case fwd seal is bad and thus the tranny would be over filling the t-case which might lead to a problem. This will also be evident if you pull the fill plug and more than a drop spills out. Speaking of t-cases I finally re-built the one you sent me and installed it. (thanks allot )If it turns out yours needs a new fwd seal(requres a rebild since fwd seal can only be changed from the inside) I can rebuild my old one and send it back to you in the crate you sent me.

*sigh* One of the Equity Residential (property owner)trucks stopped by my house today... Fortualtely the t-case was back in and I only had a tire off. I told her I was reversing some bolts so they come out easier in the future* she gave me a "pollicy reminder" with 2 days to finish and not work on my vehicle again on the property. I guess things coulda been worse but its still frustraignting having this stupid policy. Actally its kinda sweet! I made it this far w/o being noticed and I'm more than a day ahead of planned schedule. All I have left is to put the t-bars back and crank it to where it was. *I did not tell her the t-bars were out and that they were front axle bolts that rquire the t-bars and LCA's to be out in order to be reversed. I got that done and now the LCA's and t-bars can stay put If I ever need to pull my front diff.

Having the panhard bar run parallel to the axle or 1-2deg upwards to the frame to conteract acceleration squat is Ideal. Running it 1-2deg upwards also allows it to stay closer to parallel when the vehcle is loaded. Thats how I did mine, my lift was 3" in back but my bracket was only a 2.5" drop that combined with my new rancho's keeps the vehcile very level under acceleration. and when I have passengers in back it sags .5" so the bar is perfectly level.

I used rancho 9x's the model was the 9112 which is 3" inches longer than stock. I have read on other threads that JGC's & Fords will get loose @ full drop. If your are running AC coils you may be ok w/o the retainer. I think the calmini coils may be shorter than the ac's but I don't know if they fall into the loose category for the 9112's (If you wanna stay with the 5x's its the 5112's) here's the info I gathered once I decided to go-rancho; 9112's are 26" extended 3" over stock may limit full compression by about 2" 9116's are 24" extended 1" over stock & used in most lifted aplications 9118 & oem 23" extended

Also, for those of you wondering, I took a few picutures. This is what the 4x4 F5R30A Manual transmission (the 2wd F5R30A has a differant back) looks like with the T-case off. As you can see its open; the mainshfts and gearshaft bearings have no seals on them so sealing the T-case is very important or your tanny will leak. There is a gear pump that fills a gutter, the gutter pours directly at the splines where the MT output/Tx10 input shafts interlock. Most the crud the gets to the pump (mostly shavings & syncrodust....) sinks to the pont that my finger is showing on in the pic and says there since the oil has to go UP in order to circulate back into the tranny. I had 1/4" of crud to scrape out b4 sealing. next is the front side of the t-case. the seal I am pointing to must be replaced form the inside meaning a full t-case srvice since there are 3 sections to be disassembled in order to get to it. If this seal has failed your MT will leak into your t-case and over fill your t-case. If it seeps a little with age its a good Idea to run the same fluid in the t-case as the tranny to aviod in-compatible fluid mixing. And if you were wondering the Tx10a weighs 110LBS when its empty. Clean up the sealant and I'll be ready to install my spare tx10a that I have already re-built. Lastly since its in plain sight I wanted to check on the alignment of my Custom Built short throw shifter. It has not had any issues since I made & installed it in DEC'08 and I'm sure my measurements were dead on; Sure enough (hard to tell in the pic) the nylon control lever(shifter) bushing sits centered in the contol linkage making maximum contact with the linkage and no binding. Here's 2 slides on the sifter I made;

I did, It took a little more pesuasion in the end... I took some heat to the edges of the sealant with propane torch. usining a bolt hole ajacent to the torch I treaded in the bolt all but about 1/8 inch, and gave it a whack. I did this only in a few places as space is limited and I didn't want to burn wires. Ther was no visible change but when I stuck a jack handle between the FWD outputshaft and the Tranny member and pryed at it started dripping so I yanked really hard and I got an 1/8" gap. After its done pissing I'll pull the bolt back out and see if I can slide it off the tranny w/o hurting myself. thanks, Our property owner is threatening to kick ppl out for this sort of thing so when I hit my first small bump I took a break and posted here just incase I couldn't get it soon.

I got every thing out of the way (t-bars x member driveshafts etc...) and this moring I unbolted the t-case but it will not come off. I made sure to get every bolt including lifting the tranny off of the x member to get the 2 behind the tranny isolator. aLL THATS left holding it is sealant (which is also leaking so I figured it woud give e-z) but it will not budge, I put a jack under it and jacked it till the tranny hit the body with no luck. I've tried hammering razorblades into the seam but there is no room, they just chip. Somone please give me some good ideas before I break something.

x2 Open headder was way LOUD. like drag strip loud @ only 3 grand and no powe at all cat only sounded dumb, still too loud a very short 2.25" magnaflow made it sound good.

I hear that allot from the muscle car crowd too. Borla has produced a good sound on every 6 & 8 cyl I've seen it on.(never paid attention to 4 cyls and what they had)

MY donor rear disc axles had bran new nissan pads in it. (guess it braked too hard and got rear-ended lol) They stop pretty well but then again that's compareing disc to drums lol. I'll be going ebc greenstuf when I get new rotors. then braking will be really sharp, i'm sure

there is good and bad in a jy. I have seen prisinte vehicles with nothing stuck and ones so rusty the forkift went thru the frame instead of under it when placing it in the lot. AND everything in between. Yes there is no guarantee but there may still be a chance. Make sure to use brake grease or antiseize on the bolt to prevent a repeat incident.

x2 I know when I fill @ 3/4 full its always 5 gallons when I fill @ 1/2 its usually 9.5-11@ the pump 1/4 full= 16-17 E = 19-21 (only had 21 once when driving arround @ 4 am in oregon looking 4 open gas pump) I feel lucky that my 20 year old fuel gage is that accurate.

THE fsm says to use a lithum based grease.

Take the one that came out easy to the store and match it up... If its not a straight bolt as in it has a tapered, steped or collared shank you may have to go to a specialty shop or even nissan. or try and take one from a JY pathy.

Algnment shops usually don't touch t-bars unless you tell them to return it to factory ride height. the stock t-bars (even 20yrs old) may have nothing wrong with them. Keep in mind the calmini is 15% stiffer, if thats not what you want that's 2 less things to replace, 6 less bolt bolts to get stuck and 4 less splines you may have to beat on.... the calmini kit is 2.5-3". 3.5" would lock up the CV joints w/o a diff drop I went calmini UCA's and new XJ 3" lift coils, they are softer than stock provide and about $20 less than calmini coils. then I did rancho 9000's(99112) in the rear. rides really good once I put the rancho's in. (stock kept topping out till the valving was destroyed)

x2 If you mess up your cat from excess fuel that could lead to other problems...having a cloged or highly restrictive cat being one of them.

2x In more detail; drill a 1/8 hole completly thru the bolt if you can(if more than 3/8" of the bolt is left don't bother you'll risk breaking the bit in the bolt) then get an ez out and drill it up to 3/16 or larger but deep enough for the ez out to grab good. the 1/8" thru hole is to let the metal contract some under the stress of being removed from its current seized condition.

Since I got my new tires I been gettin bout 120 when I get to 1/2 . Usually I fill @ 1/4 empty which is 65-70miles. B4 the heavy tires 140 @ half, or even 160 on alot of hwy driving was not uncommon. Like I suggested on AIM, maybe your over-cooling with that 170 deg thermo. I'm pretty sure 175 was the standard for the VG w/ 180 as a heater booster option for cold climates.

Upon close inspection, they didn't even put stock size bolts in (50mm) They used the same length bolt I was using (60mm) and just put shims in it to keep it form bottoming and only told me it was shorter and the the shims "were only precaution." Those assholes! So I bought 4 new 50mm bolts, took the arms completely off and looked at everyting closely w/ lights & depth probes. the frame up front is beefy! its a full box with a rib down the middle like this [|] so the bolts were hitting that middle rib and dented it in some exept the bolt gave up instead of denting on that rt fwd one... Lessons learned; If using longer bolts for more shims go back to stock bolts when not using shims anymore Don't trust ppl to work on your car if they don't like there job (I got that vibe that they didn't like their work, which means no pride in doing it right)

That would be simpler but you have a 1/2" chuck don't you?. Most ppl only have a 3/8" chuck.