MY1PATH

It may take a bit to fill the filter. I belive the fsm tells you to turn the engine over several seconds with the injector circut unpluged to fill the filter and lines again. also running empty can cause some fuel pumps to get exessively hot. I don't know if nissan falls into that category or not but I been run dead 2x and my pump still works so I'm thinking not.

If I were you, I would sleep better @ night after getting a more offset wheel to give the strut more clearance. I know It will not hit during normal opperating conditions but but knowing that it wont and feeling good about it are 2 differant things. and the latter is enough to push me into getting a wider stance/ more offset...

Ok there may have been something like that when I took the side-gears and packs out of a donor pathy and I assume it may aid in keepeing a decent pre-load on the bearings. However, my '89's pumkin has never been disassembled and so I do not belive the thrust block is a problem (as 88 suggested) or at least not in my case, since my disc axles from a 95 just slid all the way in.

Calmini UCA's are by far the beefyest. Theri 27.5mm t-bars are stiff but they will take anykind of tail abuse in good stride. BUT the calmini UCA needs modifying to fit larger shocks(1/2" of grinding on the innner radius) And there was complaint of the tell-tale squeak. Mine have not made a sound, in '06 they went from derlin bushings to vecton bushings, I added Energy Suspension "Formula 5" grease to the vecton bushings and have not had a noise so far (over a month now)

Trish had the same problem. So I'd check again just to be sure. yes it works wihth partial depression but how partial? she may be pushing it just a little less then you were trying.

um, I left the diff alone and just slid the axle safts in, I don't think this spacer was in the way (if it was there) since everything went flush w/ no forceing b4 I bolted it up. I also did not see a spacer in a drum pathy I took apart for the LSD packs.

Thats what she said. I hope you like em. Since most springs acheive lift partially thru increased spring rate; the XJ-C's are the first 3" lift spring I've seen that are physically 3" taller. Let us know how you like em since you will be the 2nd person I know to try em. Mine have not sagged much and still sit a little over 3" lifted, I'd like to know if thats any differant for the 4 door.

nissan pickup 4x4 lever may help your clearance. Its taller becacues the pickup came with a 1.5" taller body.

sounds like a LOUD lifter too me. I have a few noisy ones every now and then but they are only that loud when its cold.

If the stock speakers are in good shape you can leave them in when you put in the new deck. But if your going for louder or just an overal update changing them won't hurt either it just takes more time.

you should be able to just swap out the shafts, calipers and hardlines on your H233b(pathfinder rear end). My 89 has rear Disc brakes from a 95. Be warned, topping power will be allot better than you'd expect it to be. I'm very happy w/ my swap. Here's Nissan Nut's guide for the rear disc conversion; http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/

MY pan-hard-drop; 1/8" 304 stainless folded on a press and 2.5" lower than stock. The top hole is elongated and there is a "push-tab" screw on the rt side for precise axle centering. Once center is set all the 14mm bolts are torqed down, I put spacers on the inside they are 1/16-1/8 shorter than the oem bracket so everything compresses b4 it clamps down on the spacers so it won't go anywhere. My Panhard is now nearly parallel and my axle.

Every time I've called Rough Country durning the week they have answered, then you just ask if you can buy just the front springs for the XJ 3" kit. I belive these springs also frequent ebay in the 3" 4" and 6" versions.

I have not yet looked into where it contacts the shock, but its the backside of the radius cutout right? Pictures would be much appreciated!

the cluthch fan has a mechanism in it that expands when its hot, this makes it turn closer to the same speed as your water pump pulley when the engine is hot. as the engine cools the clutch expands less allowing the fan to slip more on its shaft and slow down so that it doesn't over cool the engine. If you can't turn it with the engine of it is prolly seized and you need a new fan clutch. I still have mine from when I converted to electric fan, It works fine and its yours for 15 bucks + shipping. PM me if you want it. The fan has a split on one side but it will hold together fine as long as its bolted to the clutch. I'll prolly just send the clutch to save you on shipping unless you decide you want me to send the fan with it. changing it is easy; losten your alternator belt remove your fan shroud remove the 4 nuts on the fan/water pump pulley. slide the old clutch and fan off unscrew the fan from the clutch and put it on the new clutch put new clutch and fan on water pump/pulley and re-install the 4 nuts. intstall fan shroud and re-tighten alternator belt

I think the control module for the speeds is a little box on the outside of the whiper motor itself.

this was brought up on N4W. If I was home I'd link the tread. I also called calmini to inquire with them about it... anyway the guy had talked with a tech from calmini who said removing 1/2" of material from the radius for the shock should still maintain its strength. ... I called aske for that tech (his name evades me, but its in the tread) but he was not there. they said they have no record of any such incedent.(calmini denting ranchos) or fix for the incedent and that I should use stock, calmini or other narrow brand of shock untill I am sure there are no other isses because modifying the UCA will void any kind of waranty or replacement they might have offered if something was amiss. every thing is good so far, I'll give it a few more months but I will eventually make the 1/2" cut as well when I go to install rancho's. I am not too concerned with loosing waranty/replacment services since I hear they like to wash their hands of you as soon as they put postage on your box.(can't loose what you didn't have). From a structural standpoint I cannot see removing 1/2" from ONLY that radius having too much effet on the UCA that is already pretty overbuilt. Their powdercoating is pretty weak too(prolly from poor material prep) so I will be having them stripped, cleaned and re-coated after I make the cut.

x2 on the hoohaa!!!

OK to clear things up; XJ-C coils (stock) will not provide any lift. If your stock springs are sagging and there are no pathy's in the JY you can use these coils instead. XJ-C 3" coils (from Rough Country) will provide aprox 3" lift and can be purchaced from RC for $120.

I finally got my PHD Done (pan-hard-drop) Here are some pix; 1/8" 304 stainless finished off with KeyStone Automotive Key Kote paintable ruberized undercoat. The I put spacers on the inside they are 1/16-1/8 shorter than the oem bracket so everything compresses a little b4 it clamps down all the way. My Panhard is now almost perfectly parallel and my axle went from being 1/2" off center to now being only 1/16 off center.(unloaded)

IF i get under 12mpg in the pathy I start looking for problems. best I had was 20 somethin, I reset the trip l8 so I don't know the exact but prolly just over 20. carrying 3 ppl a dog, luggage and more stuff on the roof from tacoma, wa to san-fran I avg'd 18.5 I get 13 in 20mph zones arround home and 14-17 mixed with everything else.

replace those bushing cups wtih a bearing race and they should never wear out again.

BECAUSE; they correct the alignment but DO NOT correct the ball joint angle.

Under carpets actually more of a soft plastic than a rubber. but yes it is a sound dampener and laid in strips under carpet throughout the entire vehicle(@ least the earlier years I've seen do) Alternatives for replacement; Dynamat expensive but VERY quiet if you lay it under your carpet. good insulator too. there are prolly knockoffs that are also effective. you could also roll herculiner or thick undercoating in there to dampen the noise b4 you put the carpet back.

I do belive the chasis is the same but there may be a few minor differances; mounting brackets for various lines and wires... ya know the stuff you can prolly fix if your able enough to do a chasis swap in the first place.