MY1PATH

I was just about to say that lol mine(now in the dodge) was more like "beedep a deep" 3 times and then its done.

every time I use tradespro it breaks and every time my friend picks me up a new one (usually broke on their car) its another tradespro to break. some times they get smart and get me a powerbuilt which doesn't seem to break.

I'm pretty sure anything over 200 is nearing lockup I'm pretty sure the spec is 180. and yes it does kick a little if you don't let off the gass over ice but that didn't take long to get used to.

I had a sony xplod in my pathy, It seemed a little bugy w/ the Ipod and always started @ song 1 artist 1 alphabetaially whenever the engine stalled or was re-started, got pretty anoying having to re-set it to random every time I got in the car and not to mention wearing out a song I used to like. Anyway when I totaled the honda that had torn speakers I decided to try the kenwood that was in it on a vehicle that had undamaged speakers.WOW. It blew the sony out of the water, sound quality was rich, Ipod interface was great and It could be programed to know 6" in front and 6x9's in the back. Yep, I'm pretty much sold on Kenwood

iirc, IIRC- acronym for If I Recall Correctly.

Look up xpel.com I put some of their thick stuff over my lights and they still look new when I whipe the dirt off. they claim to protcect against a 1oz stoing going 120mph. after branch slaps, and close following (esp beind a blazer doing doughnuts in gravel) I'm starting to beive it.

I beive If you want rear disc you will have to downgrade to the 31 spline diff (or @ least the side gears)and shafts used in a w/d21. and use those axles(and axle seal). I think its that simple but If somone knows that the axle lengths are differant or something pls speak up. Unless maybe the bearing and baffle form the 31 can be pressed onto the 33 spline but I doubt it. the 31 lsd also had a breakawaytorque of about 180 ftlbs vs 120? in the 33 spline model. you can re-stack your r50 lsd for the same but you migth as well do it when your doing the swap since you have to get in there anyway.

the realy box against the passenger fenderwall is a good place to start, the one labled 'Main Relay' remains on for about 15 sec after the engingine is shut off. thats the one I used because I wanted it to run a little(if needed) when I walk away from the vehcile, fuel pump realy would work as well if you don't want that feature, just splice the trigger wire and your good to go. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...st&p=408812 (my 'black magic xtreme' install)

x2

from what I've seen that does seem to bee the popular solution

wrong year or model or something, go back and get the sensor with 2 plugs. I think it has to do with being a "heated o2 sensor"

I'm a guess the compression/tension rods; as you accerate the for force on them varies, If one of them is shot or worn out it may sift more than the other under high speeds.

just leave the fusabble link for stock equipment and run extras w/ fuses directly off the post.

my haynes manual shows a weird little 3 armed tool called the AC Clucthc tool. never thought about how it works tho.

arround here my buddy had his manifold faced for 60 bucks IIRC they faced the block side(4cyl) and the turbo flange. so for a v6 NA I imagine it'd fall arround 80-100 bucks for the pair.

IF you mean like these; I got mine off of ebay. just go with the lowest seller becuase dispite all the advertising they give about being better than the others there's only one company that makes em and so they are all the same.

my guess is it would last pretty long, coolant has a rust inhibitor in it becuase it already has to combat the effects of dis-similar metals in a cooling system. ex; mixing metals like steel/iorn, brass/bronze, coppper or alumium can accelerate corrosion since most cooling systems contain @ least 2 or 3 of these metals. Rust inhibitors already exist and I assume they would protect a stud thats sealing a water jacket as long as you keep on top of your coolant changes.

this may seem ignorant but can you butter up the stud threads with some high temp sealant and just seal it with the stud when you put the manifold back on?

abuse as in? Hard shifting dumping clutch or all out POWER SHIFT or all the above all the time? I do the first 2 more than the average person.

. That was actually the exact clutch I enquired about when I asked on N4W. Centerfroce makes good clutches, just not as good as oem for the pathfinder, or so I've been told. I never had a problem w/ oem pads, ebc greenstuff is good and I've heard good things about HAWK pads tho I've never seen em.

to make it simpler; I did a direct battery relay for my headlinghts I used 2 relays 1 for high and 1 for low and had a single battery + wire going to both of them. Just do that and run a 3rd relay to interupt the battery wire, wire the trigger to the same trigger as the main relay on the fenderwall and then your headlights can still maintain the shortest elctrical path to the battery for low voltage drop. and Using the main relay they will stay on for 15sec after the engine is turned off, thats what I have my fan wired to.

One is a dash pot and has not lines running in or out of it it just prevents idle from over dropping when you let off the gass the other is for your warm up fast idle and is controlled by coolant lines, both are metioned in my thread. and the screw directly contolls the air passage from those solenoids I have a dissasembled TB sitting rt in front of me and I can see thru the passages.

x2 on OEM my first clutch lasted 190k and was still good when it was replaced with the tranny. My second one is OEM I only have 40 K on it and will prolly be replaced before its time when I eventually do my engine swap. I asked the same question on N4W and guys that had tried aftermarket clutches for the pathfinder said that the OEM one was better.

really, like an L28 motor or do you mean the 4.0 cherokee. ALSO, why hasn't this thread been pinned? this is a great reference/ resouce and It would make finding it easier.

from sucks I have rented a spring compressor; a 2 arm top and bottom unit that goes thru the center of the spring. and a strut compressor which was 2 one arm units units in a case that went on either side of the spring. Other than the physcial limitations such as the treads reaching the frame, axle, body or spidle I had no issues. and those were as simple as just repositioning the tool and trying again. I belive schucks rents out powerbuilt tools and I can say the only unsafe moment was when I used the 1 spring compressor on the outside of a jeep coil but that was me being unsafe not the tool. In genereal, I have never had an issue with a powerbuilt tool. tradespro on the other hand.....(I think I was born with a curse that makes trades pro break when I touch it)