MY1PATH

I'm pretty sure they send it to JWT...

ecu upgrade should be the last thing on your list. When they place your order they take into acount all of your existing mods. you'd be selling yourself short if you do a cam later on because thats one of the bigest optomization changes they make.

On the NGK website everyting 91 and under is listed as BCPR5E-11 AND TO GAP @ .044" So I went on ngk and broke the 2 down http://www.ngksparkp...rtnumberkey.pdf B 14mm plug C 5/8 hex socket P Projected insulator (sticks out about 3/32 farther than non-projected) R Resistor type plug (Reduceces EMI for your stereo, ECU and other electronics) 5 Heat range 5 E 19mm thread reach (this includes the gasket thickness) 11 For wide gap plugs (1.1MM extended for .044" gaps) In this case the absence of a 'S' symbol means its a V-power electrode instead of standard electrode plug B 14mm plug K Hex Size 5/8"Projected Tip (ISO) (replaces CP for ISO) R Resistor type plug (Reduceces EMI for your stereo, ECU and other electronics) 5 Heat range 5 E 19mm thread reach (this includes the gasket thickness) Y V-groved center elctrode(V-power plug) to avoid confusion 5 is the proper heat range and aside from the wide gap both plugs are the same. Why nissan went to a smaller gap in 1992 I do not know. But I would venture to say that for those of you running bigger coils or MSD systems running the wide gap plug may possibly benifit you. And if you looked @ the chart I'm sure you can figure that bkr5ey-11 and bcpr5e-11 are the same plug.

+Dircect from the 93/94 FSM for VG30e+ Non california models; standard BKR5EY cold type BKR6EY hot type n/a Cali models; standard BKR6EY cold type BKR7EY hot type BKR5EY gap .8mm-.9mm or .031"-.035" other things you might like to know; use EIX instead of EY for iridium type plugs gernerally run standard plugs in less one of the following applies; hotter plugs may recuce fouling colder plugs may reduce detonation @ high rpms

on my 89 there is a calibration screw in side the cluster, it varies the frequency going to the fuel and temp guage. I got it to where just shy of 10 gallons is center, 5 is exactly on the tick mark and 15 is just a hair toward E on the line. E is about 18ish and past the letter itself is 20ish but I almost never get that low. I suppose I could get it so 10.5 is center but then my temp would be too far off and right now it is perfect (180 is center) so the rest, I'm sure, is the sending unit.

it may clean her mouth but if she doesn't stall on you it will clean her colin too (and everything in between)

I used seafoam in my push mower and it ran like a champ. a cap full in the gas a cap full in the intake a bit of blue somoke and so on. the most traditional method of use for vehcles(full treatment) is right before an oil change; 1/3 goes in the gas(make sure you have @ least 5gal in the tank) 1/3 goes in the oil 1/3 gets sucked up a vacum line usually the brake booster vacum is used because its large and easy to get to on most makes. when the last of it is goning immideately kill the engine(or some say let it suck enought to kill it for you but I don't like that) anyway the idea it that some should be able to soak into the engine for 10min rathere than burining it all. so after 10 min start it up, it will turn hard and may need help. Expect a smoke show! the color and pattern of the smoke is an indication of how much the engine really needed it. my some was pure thick white the whole time(clean) thin white, blue and black are indications that the eingine was dirty and now you are burning all the cap this petrolium solvent dislodged. change your oil, (don't go over 100mi with this in the oil, its just like using atf in the oil) it will likely be nasty, and this it the freed crud in your bottom end. the amount in the gas will take care of itself as it cleans your fuelsystem and gets replaced by more fuel the next time you pump. I love the stuff, it makes a fun smoke show but more than that I've seen several OLD engines and a few mistreated newer engines run allot beter after it. If your doing this to improve imissions give about 100+ miles for all the old crap it freed to get out of the system before testing.

I dono why, but I think that statment is firigin hilarious. I mean it would suck and its true but... its kinda funny too.

I've driven my 89 w/o the stering belt. the trick is to have the vehicle moving when you turn it and plot out the turns a little differant and the was with 31's. I belive there is a manual somewhere that says that if you don't use ac you should let it run un-interupted for at least 10 min once a month.

I think you'll be ok. carsound (magnaflow) replacement cats have been known to do as well or better-than stock cats for emissions tests. I doubt the headers on a pathy will be big enough to create a poor emisons condition unless somthing else is wrong with the rig. My buddy z28 on the other hand, with his 2"primaries coming off of each cyl for his headders will prolly have some emissions issues no-matter how many cats he has lol.

when you installed the deck did you bypass the factory amp. IN your model it should be tucked back there just below the deck. If you still have it I reccomend pulling it out and splicing the in&out wires and caping off the power wire.

I have heard alot good about VHT and buddy of mine used it on his block and headders. Its not running yet but "it worked great last time" I'll have to see it when he's done. My other friend ran a motorsports shop; he said allot of headers don't get a 50 state carb or even a fitment rating on all possible vehciles becuase they move the stock location of the cats. Kind of a lame rule but then again he said emissions is the biggest enemy (with all their stupid rules)of a LEGIT leagal sreet driven muscle car in most areas.

ban adamzan for duplicate posts. Really you only NEED a belt on your alty and your water pump. LOL Power steering and AC are just nice things we like to have but they will not be harmed by not having belts

there should be 2 positions in H; 2Hi & 4Hi then N for neutral Neutral then down and back for 4L; 4low= 2:1 gear reduction (no differential Lock)

Correction I got an incomplete Postrunner from them, I still have to grind off some dangerous sharp edges and gusset the reciever where they blew thru a weld. 375+ shipping 12+ weeks of wait and still not all the parts have arrived. Go elesewhere, Like somone who can take pide in beautiful quality workmanship; where the welds flow like a series of concave semicirles, the edges are rounded and clean, the weding slag is chipped off and production times are acurate to what you've been told.

thats how I set my e-fan, 177-180 was the 1/2 way mark on mine and my fan automatically keeps it close to 180

b4 and after shots with wheel clearance measurementst would be nice :ride:

hmm I think mine got a little quirter when i did mine but it had stock exhaust then... it got louder when i cut the pipe.

shouln't be too hard to fix yourself. I already talked one guy thru it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22081&view=findpost&p=389718

When I used I6 springs I got NO LIFT. there was a 4.0 inline and a 2.8 v6 side by side in the jy and the springs were Idenical. Both of them were XJ's. Now the ZJ or Grand cherokee with the I6 may give some lift but I do not know. I think your best bet is to get a caliper and go by wire diameter not engine type.

pathys don't have a cabin air filter. but you may want to change your thermostat. a worn out one may not be allowing you proper warm up.

if thats what it says, I time mine @ 600rpm but I have a vg30i and I also vary my base timing based on drving....

well I think new injectors for the tbi range 300-400(each) and your supposed to replace them in pairs.... take it to the wrong mechaninc and he could easily have you shell out a Grand for parts and labor. No f$#ing way right? then there's python performance who sells reman'd unints in pairs (Possibly modified 'Perforamance') for considerably less but mine always smelled rich and BOTH failed elecrtically in 4 months. I was lucky; an electrical failure of the TBI injector has been documented to led to permenant damge to the ecu. the symptom of this damage is that it seems fine but keeps wrecking future injectors.... (lucky yours is leaking) so screw python, since the BOTH failed @ the same time... IMO the best way to go is to find a working set of used injectors or if your lucky enough to find somone good to rebuild yours do that. I try to grab injectors (or whole tbi units with sensors) whenever I'm in the JY. Both z24i and vg30i units are compatible.

1)unbolt the cat and look thru it with a BRIGHT light on the other side. if u can't see its cloged. If you get a magnaflow direct replacement you won't need such a bright light (breathes better) 2) sensor values may be correct but are they clean? an o2 sensor with deposits blocking it from may cause you to run richer. 3)Is there a chance your ECU may have "learned" a bad conditon in the past and when something was fixed the ecu never reset? If so maybe resetting the ecu may help. If so, unplug the battery for a few hours, stomp the brakes with the ign on to complete the reset(elctronic drain so it "forgets" old habbits) b4 putting the battery back on. Then take it for a drive and let it re-map all the fuel curves. If I'm wrong on the third one; trying it didn't cost you anything but time.

your doing 15deg correct?