MY1PATH

I have also thought of swaping in the d21 stops... they are like a narrow triangle pointing down but about 1/3 the height. they may not squish as much but since they are sorter they may allow more flex b4 being fully squished.

yeh x2 it would have to be a downstream trubo and used only for street. Run you prolly over a grand all said and done. I always liked the Idea of putting an eaton m90 or m62 (from SC frontier) on a pathy....

every JY pathy I seen has had them in the rear, I can even grap you some tomorrow for cheap. save your money! we all wheel fine on stock figure 8's in the rear

appearantly your search fluid needs changed as well. I use Redline mt90 (nissan tranny GL4 spec ONLY) in my 5spd and my t-case, and redline 75-90 GL5 in my diffs. Very smooth even on the coldest of snowy days.

last I looked my bumpstop is a figure8 made of rubber and each loop compresses pretty easliy under load. maybe yours are torn off? Shorter stiffer stops can be bought from energy or more cheaply by just using HB bumpstops of a JY rig.

x2 but this has been covered several times... it is handy tho if you stall on an obstacle and do not want to roll back when you deperess the clutch...

I always thought it went like this; 1 fuse block & 1 wireing harness for all vehicles of that year/model wether they have the accesory or not... this makes production simpler and more cost effective when they were made. on the bright side you should be able to get a swich, timed relay and heated seat and the wires will be there for you.

the upper cable glides wear out too and as the cable wears deeper into them they drag more. get on ebay and look for new regulators with tracks. BE SURE to get the ones with ROLLERS on the top instead of guides. they last ALLOT LONGER.

get one from a JY, get new poly bushings from Moog OR enenergy suspension and weld a bearing cup that matches the taper of the busihing to each side of your mounting bracket.

didn't there used to be 10:1 or 10.5:1 pistons available for N/A 300zx those might add some power with the use higer octane as well. Most the 300zx stuff is lower because ppl like to boost.

bump over a hundred active members but only 21 votes. who's next?

NAW we'll just give you $#!t about your rear leaf springs and other small diferences. You still have ALLOT in common with the wd21. N4W is a good place to go if you want to find more HB ppl. (nissan4wheelers.com)

they come with the legs de-tached so you can rotate them upwards before welding to compensate for BL

IMO fatory brush guards are just that. BRUSH GUARDS! they stop small branches, saplings and bushes fine. If you want deer protection look into a bullbar or a guard that actually replaces your bumper in the process. then it will have the advantage of the best mounting points, the best integrated material and no inferior parts to pivot arround.

why not just get the trail gear toyota sliders from rugged rocks?

I wish I could, I have see long vs short on same vehcile with other models and the long tube dyno has always been lower hp and lower max torque but it picks up sooner and stays flatter.

the washer too! wow I assumed u found pieces and put them to gether but what would be the odds.Is it possible the whole bracket may have broke and vibration backded the srew out of the head? Don't let us scare you. poke arround and find the truth.

HMM. good point. If I ever get a 90+ I think I'd still get a set of long tubes and convert em. Not just 4 convienece of the crosover but because I like long tubes vs short as far as locating a flatter torque band.

the nickel coating can easily be filed or ground off when its new. SO! 1 take it off, grind it, clean it up & put it back on 2 tack weld it for proper fitment 3 Don't be lazy do the nicer job and take it back off for a really clean 360 weld It comes off @ the collectors and should be not a problem to drop out if the vehcle is raised on a lift by a professional welder or exhaust shop. Thats how mine are done and I'd do (that part) the same again if I had the choice.

It looks like it might be for a tensioner screw... check your belts, see if any are loose and check your accessory brakcets see if anything looks missing...

If I'm not mistaken you can use vg30 e wires, cap and rotor on a vg30 i. the cap is differant, the e has the terminals facing skyward(tall) vs the i has the terminals facing fwd and aft (flat) but again they both work. just pay attention to the lables and how you route the wires because I beive the tall goes in a cirlce 123456 whereas the flat goes in 2 differant patterns 246 135 or 264 135 depending on the brand

wrong and wrong. the type of diff you have has NO effect On what type of rear brakes you have and camini & 4x4 parts both sell front lsd

My 89 XE also has LSD. just take the 3rd member out of another pathy that has lsd. Make sure you get the right gear raitio when you do so.

Is this a joke? I assume it circulates diff fluid thru an external cooler. I fail to see the need.

Exhaust OPINOINS are very diverse. It is my personal beleif the 2.0 is the most Ideal diameter for the vg30 (i & e) if you want to it to have the most useable tq band. A quick rise to 2.25 for a high flow cat and back down to a 2" free flow muffler is kinda the Ideal setup. If you are looking for more power higer up I would go 2.25 max and that should do the trick. seach youtube for my1path and my exhaust vid should pop up.