MY1PATH

Never used em, but hearsay "they are stiff"

It will make working with the heads a little akward(90+ are short tubes) but you can. I would not think of doing so with my thorley long tubes (pre90 are long tubes) that would just be silly and clumsy. Now, UNCC how do you change valve seals?

some folks just shouldn't have guns because they're too stupid to do the right thing with em.

I belive its 14awg I think I replaced mine with 12awg not sure if that was a good idea or not.

wrong, the reason for the scronzing is prolly because if one wheel has no traction it may be in a rut and the vehicle has shifted toward that rut using the 2 wheels that have traction as a pivot point the diagonal opposite wheel has less load and therefore less traction because of the weight shift. now that he is locked in back, fwd left and right will spin based on which has least traction reguadless of what the rear is doing.

Circut breaker? the fuse box is under a panel down and left from the steering column. relays can be found on the passenger side of the engine bay and in an access panel on the left rear interior. what exactly are you looking for?

sweet! so when does the 3rd swithch come allong?

valve seals? I'd like to know about this.

I have a set of RS9000's(rs9k) waiting to go on the back of my pathy (when I get it back) I bought them for exactly that reason. even out of the box there is a big differance between setting 1(soft) and setting 9(stiff). I hear that the RS5k's are equal to about setting 5 on the 9k's so you'd prolly run setting 3 or 4 unless loaded. The 9k's are a little pricy but I will prolly find they are worth it. Here's some part numbers if you wanna try em too; for the rear; 9112's are 26" extended (long-travel you will need tall springs or to have them wired in) 9116's are 24" extended (1" longer than stock, works for stock and up to 3" SL) 9118 & oem 23" extended (stock length not reccomended for more than 2" lift.) for the front; 9214 (stock length, IFS does not required longer shocks to take advantage of lift)

Back from MI, It sucked and I got really sick right after I returned (swine scare) but I'm recovering now. I'm trying energy suspendion grease on calmini's newer Vecton (vekton) bushings. when It comes time to do the rancho's I'll be doing some trimming and freshpowdercoat (I doubt calmini preped it since there was still slag on the UCA's under the powder) and if they are noisy by then I'll add zerks. Thanks for the correction dad, the mechanic actaually told me that the bolt is bad (guess I din't look hard enough) and that the 60mm bolts (stock is 50) were bottoming out on the frame shince there are no shims on the calmini as opposed to allot of shims on the stock uca's. He said he'd got a new bolt to hold @ 60fltlbs (I told him the spec was 80ftlbs) and that this stripping bolt thing was common and that MFJRs try to make the frame threads tougher in these areas so this it is the bolt not the hole. He's going to chase the threads with a tap and put a stock spec bolt in there.... And yeh $205 @ this prisine body shop, I think I'll be going elsewhere next time. they weren't done with it when I called and I hope not to find out they were wrong when I call to pick it up monday. Swaybar... I broke the rod end anchor once and didn't feel much differance w/o it attached while waitng for the enegy suspendion kit. so when one of the inner anchors sheard off I said forget it, I don't need a front sway bar. The rear on the other hand, I do like having for those winding on-ramps.

are your t-bars cranked too high? your CV's might be binding.

There is no rear seal on the Manual 4x4 tranny. So yes, the tranny oil does fill this void. (and leak @ the seam if your mating seal has dried up like mine) If your fwd seal on your t-case is bad it will also overfill your t-case. You can run the same fluid as your MT or you can run ATF Dextron.

Yes, then there is less risk of maring the shaft.

MY wd21 sent an 06 blazer to the wrecking yard when it hit me on the rear passenger corner. the whole fender was tucked behind his crooked wheel... there was hardly any damage to my rig prolly thanks to the tire carrier.

order one, get the tread size and pitch, buy the ones you need and then return the one you ordered. Thats what I did when I wanted to get longer UCA bolts.

you go thru water? I have heard of the canister getting water soaked (stream crossings)and that opening it and letting it dry out somtimes solves problemes.

Some of the 2wd pathys ran a Borg Warner T5, almost the same one that can be found on some ford mustangs and a few other chevy's. so there might be a shift kit somewhere out there for you. I don't know if its needed or not, I'm just tossing the info out there.

don't helicoils have that little tab @ the bottom that you use to install them? If the bolt threads thru would the tab be a problem. or are there differant styles. Its little late to go looking for 14mmx1.25 helicoil kit(tho I should have considered this sooner). its already @ the mechanics and I'm going to be shipped outa state @ moments notice sometime this weekend(gotta love the military). So I might as well let the mechanic go thru with it while I'm gone so I can @ least come back to a safely driveable pathy.

the bolt is a new 10.9 (grade 8 equvalent) from the last time it had issue and its threads are spotless.

owch! There goes the rancho's I was gonna get. I Hope this is the last time I have an issue with this bolt.(and I hope the other UCA bolts never have issue either)

I put my Calmini in last night Using Energy suspension "Formula 5 grease" on the bushings to hopefully prevent squeaks in the long run this stuff is smooth and extreeemly thick so I am hopeful...(updates will come as time progresses) I cranked the t-bars until I had 0 deg camber(factory spec .7 to 1.7), I got maybe an inch out of it and it was already cranked a little b4 so maybe 1.5-1.75 total. I cranked a little more this morning for a total of maybe 2" and went to put 2 washers behind each side of the UCA spindle like it had before but without all the shims. When tightening the forward bolt on the passenger UCA it went "POP" and I went "WTF? oh no! Dammit! Dammit! Dammit! " It will not get any tighter, the treads are done (and no I didn't over tighten it), I AM PISSED! Everything was going so well. This particular bolt hole has had a history of problems that I think all started when it was hit 20 yrs ago. Anyway before I can do anything else to it I'm a limp it off to the collision/alignment shop(it can still grab a few threads if I leave the washers out) and have them fill weld the hole and re-tap it for the original bolt. I just really wanted to test it out today B4 I go 2 Michigan, but now it has to wait in a shop till I get back. By the way, here's some pix from last night B4 the problems came the Problemmatic bolt has been circled in red on the first photo. click to enlarge

yeh just cause the pathy is rated @ 3500lbs towing does not mean that I would tow up to 3500 lbs of the bat. If you wanted the pathy to handle that you should drop in a vg33(easiest upgrade engine swap), an air helper spring in back, 4wheel disc and a good tranny cooler. At that rate you better have other reasons for doing the vg33 or else your better off buying a rig for towing or just following one of OldSlowReliable's methods.

Hey SteeevO, Thanks for trying man, I really appreciate that you've got a section in your store for w/d21's and that you are trying to offer more aftermarket options for our crowd. I'll be buying some toyota 58" sliders from you later on down the road.(for my pathfinder)

allota razorblades a small hammer and allota patence... or just buy the aftermarket clear ones. I'm very happy with mine...

First off, the 87 z24i is not quite a carb. It has electronic 2 injectors just above the throttle body. under your air box there is a 1.5-2"cylinder the a pluger in it that gets struck by the trottle cam. I belive its called the dash pot. Its purpose is to keep the trottle from closing too fast(so as not to kill the engine or starve it of air) when you let off the gas. I'm guessing it might be stuck or out of ajustment. try taking a tiny srewdriver or knife blade and backing off the screw that strikes the plunger. also try spraying to teflon lube arround the boot of the plunger and try to work it towards the saft with your little finger.