BowTied

Might look for a rebuild kit to get all the oddsn'ends...

winter gas additives can contribute a little bit...

Until reading this article, I had also used different things to clean metal to prep for a weld, especially for grease removal. Doing it wrong can kill you... as Simon noted, certain chemicals in this situation can create phosgene gas - a WWI nerve gas. Nasty stuff is an understatement. http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Get the socket. However, one I did a few years ago: I bought the special socket, and of course, the cheap one I bought would fit on the sensor but there was no position for it to recieve the ratchet with extension or not.... I put some heat on it with the torch and a regular wrench turned it out effortlessly. Try not to burn down your vehicle. Wear safety glasess.. you know the drill. g/l

Thanks for the added experience comments, it is helpful This is why I started the thread. If I had an old Chevy TH350 trans I could blow it up and have a good used one dropped in by a garage for $5-600 all in, maybe less. I expect the pathy will be 5x+ on that price. The other thing is that the freeways where I live have a statisical averge speed of 73mph - that speed with OD off is 3900RPM. Now I know I don't need to drive that fast, but as we all know, speed differential is dangerous. So I want to either use OD or drive as slow as I can to keep revs in check ..but still be going at least 65mph (limit is 62.5, and those that drive less than 65 cause traffic problems often). I was interested to hear the responses from those that do use OD, I was not expecting that. To those of you who have not said, Do you run trans coolers? I think this is a great idea, and want to add one sometime.

Sorry to hear of the bad luck. I am very surprised to hear that plates when through ... I didn't figure they'd get through the swirl valves, let alone the cylinder valves. Did you remove the lower intake plenum and view the swirl valves? They could be caught up there. The screws would leave a lot of marks on the pistons etc. Keep an eye on your oil consumption. You might just want to trade it in.

No, I did not use a special tool. It is not on very tight. A screwdriver or similar long item, maybe bent needle nose er something would work... at least for me.

Welcome to NPORA!! The rotor is bolted to back side of the hub. So, the cap, clip and nut come off and then you can remove the washers and outer bearing IIRC. THe hub, rotor, and inner bearing come together. This is a good time to clean and grease your bearings too, I recommend getting new inner grease seals. I got seals but not from the dealer and I regret it as they were slightly different. Study the FSM, it is pretty decent. EDIT: I note that your profile says 1987, but you have posted in the 96-04 section.... I don't own an 87, so I can't say if I what I wrote is correct.

I don't see how the comparison to an engine of completely different architecture is relevant? Sorry, not trying to be rude, but I don't see it. Sure, I get almost any engine to turn 3500 all day long. Doing that and towing 3k, probably. Just hoping to hear some actual experience, but it looks like not many VQ automatic owners tow a lot.

Thank-you for posting your experience. When you were towing with the OD off on the highway and particularily the freeway, were the RPMs crazy? I am guessing it would be about 3300 for me to do the speed limit on the freeway here, that seems very high for sustained driving.

I don't claim to know what Nick was going to say, but my guess is that it is generally considered less than ideal to drive until the fuel light is on.

For those of you who ocassionally or regularily tow a trailer with your VQ powered auto trans rigs: Do you ever tow in Overdrive? [if yes, please answer #2 & #3, If no, skip 2 & 3] If so, at what weight would you decide not use OD when towing on a highway (50-55mph)? If so, at what weight would you decide not use OD when towing on a freeway (60-65mph)? Thanks for sharing your actual experience.

What B says about the fuel system makes sense to me. If something blocked off the fuel at the tank, let's say you 100% pinched the line coming out of the tank, I personally think it would take at least 30 seconds to die and would likely sputter at least a little bit...

I do not have answers but will bump the post up for you. FWIW, if you get a fob I think you can program it to your truck easily enough. I got one on ebay for my '02 for $15 and programmed it myself.

Is the same issue you mentioned on CNTC? I think there I mentioned that if it is not doing it while cold, then it could be the O2 since it is bypassed during open loop mode while warming up. What is the exact code you got? I am curious to see the result here.

It does sound either fuel or steering related, I can't think of what else it could be, really. Grasping at straws here: when turning if there was a bad engine mount that allowed the engine to rock to one side which pulled a wire/ground, pinched a hose, or something, that could do it.. I think it unlikley, but might be a quick easy check. Since you said you are experienced with fuel systems...If you get into the tank, please be careful. If you use a punch or something to remove a locking ring for for the sender unit use a brass punch. Sparks plus fuel vapour equal very loud noise, injury etc. Good luck, please post back with the fix.

What does moz mean? I understand the use in context here, just have never seen that word before.

I think the answer here is no. The 96 thru 2000 use the 3.3L drivetrain vs the 01-04 VQ3.5L. There are likely some other differences but I am not sure what they are. There was a body style change in 99.5 for one thing....

87 posted a good link, that should help you decide what you need.

It sounds like a fuel pressure regulator, possibly. I have not had that happen, so can't say for sure.

was that an aborted hill climb? Looks like you slid sideways a foot there, pretty slippery stuff.

little tips here: avoid box store (future shop) installs. best bet is a car audio shop with a good reputation. the install should include a switch for the hood to disable the remote when the hood is open (can't lose a finger in the fan that way etc). The older/cheap way is drill a hole in the fender lip or rad support lip for a pin switch. To avoid the drilled hole (and rust), demand a mercury switch be used and attach to an existing bolt or hole on the underside of the hood. A good shop should already have these or at least can get them.

Hello, and welcome. Is this only happening when you have shifted in to 4Hi or 4Lo and does not have a problem in 2Hi? If this is true, are you using the 4x4 on pavement? If so, this is the problem. The 4x4 should only be used on slippery road surfaces. The front wheels and rear wheels are trying to turn at different rates and this causes one set to bounce. This can break something too, be careful.

sorry to hear of your luck.... but hopefully you can spin it into a V8 swap...