BowTied

driving backwards I don't think will do much, an 01 with Automode has a wet clutch tcase system instead of auto hubs as I understand it. You said it goes into Auto ok? The selector switch creates a beep as normal, but the indicator on the instrument cluster is flashing? Weird, haven't had that happen. Hopefully someone else will chime in....

If there are some easier trails in your area I really recommend getting out there and enjoying your truck while it is stock. Stock 4x4s will do a lot given a chance and some common sense. This also lets you learn the ropes like: finding out what you forgot to pack, picking lines through tougher terrain, extraction, etc. when you are not in over your head. Plus you can enjoy your vehicle without spending reams of cash on mods right away - it will help you decide which mods you need first depending on your wheeling area: maybe armor is more important than tires, maybe not. One other thing is you can spend a liitle money if needed on maintenance - don't wheel with something on the verge of break down. HTH.

Those gaskets look familiar.... I like the paint job, it is bold - esp the grille. I think I prefer a single colour but looks way better than I might have imagined! It depends - of you value having an easily identifiable/unique two-tone I say leave it.

Is this what you need?

Very nice!!!!

Not saying you should go FI, just that if you did it has a couple of advantages: efficiency and potentially a lower install hieght). Carbs are just fine, they have been working well for a century now. I don't know anything about VG engines, sorry. A standard clutch is 10.5", HD 11" nominally, so the bell would be slightly bigger than that. Not sure how that compares to a nissan bell. Or are you going auto? A common way to save/gain space when putting a SBC into something that didn't come with one is put an electric fan between the rad and the grille so the fan, fan clutch and shroud can be deleted - that can save several inches. You might find some extra info that you need by checking into a S-series forum for S10s, Blazers, etc. They often do swaps from 2.8s and 4.3s to 350s. As to which SBC to go with: if you can get a 350 it will likely be best bang for the buck. It can be built mild with a torquey cam and still make decent power with lower compression so you can run on the cheaper pump gas. I suggest a 9:1 comp ratio would be good maybe as high as 9.5:1, much more than that and you are looking at higher octanes possibly. Keep in mind it is the same amount of work regardless if you get a smogger 267 or a 350. The 400s are likely to be expensive, if you came across one it might be better to get and trade down and put the difference into the install. If you are worried about the fuel consumption, I guess a 305 would work, but avoid late 70s/early 80s 305s as some had bad metalurgy in the camshafts. If you were going to replace the cam anyway then it wouldn't matter I guess.

No problem, happy to help. I know a little more about chevy engines than I do Nissan so the opportunity to give back is great. It totally depends on which engine you are referring to, but FI may have a lower profilethan a carb engine. Particularily some newer ones. Since the new LS series small blocks are out they are the hot ticket for hot rodders and muscle car guys - they are awesome engines: and so I DO NOT recommend one. Why? They are sought after and so expensive. The LT1 engines from say the mid 90s are pretty available now and make a great donor drive train, sweet engines in power and efficiency, just not as good as the LS, and there is an after market support for them. The nice thing about FI is that you never need to worry about starving a carb due to an off-camber or steep hill situation when off-roading. Sure, carbs work, they just need a little more precaution that way. An even cheaper FI option is to go earlier yet and get a TBI set-up from the late 80s. These should be cheaper than dirt now relatively speaking. They are about as simple as FI gets but they tend to have a lot of pollution control vacuum lines and such and are not very efficient - they do however typically only need one O2 sensor to work. As to install angles - just going but eye to keep the engine level with a few degrees should be fine. Where you'd need to pay attention is the drive if the trans output is in a lot different spot. Follow the guidance in this area just like you would when lifting a rig should cover the bases.

Here are some dimensions for Chevy engines including the SBC. http://www.tbucketeers.com/page/index.html/_/articles/engines/sbc-dimensions-r23 For inexpensive go fast parts/huge after market, on-line available tuning knowledge, and many different configurations such as oil pans, and parts interchangability it is hard to beat a SBC for a custom project. The O/A dimensions are essentially the same from the first 265 through to the LT1 and from the smallest 262 to the biggest 400. To save front to rear room look to get an earlier design water pump (I think '68 and older). Also consider putting an eletric fan in front of the rad. The late 60s 2wd GM 4 speed manual gear boxes are quite small, not sure about the 4x4/tcase versions though - possibly an S series tcase would work. I recommend an Edlebrock carb as I think they have a off-road model with the vent tubes connected, look for a drop base air cleaner to maximize hood clearance if needed. Or make a custom cowl hood. Shorty headers may offer some space savings, not sure. The old ford 260s were very narrow if that is what is needed, they used those on the old Sunbeam Tigers - not many NA V8s fit old British cars.

Welcome to NPORA! Check to see if you high beams are on. Fogs automatically turn off with the high beams.

You have likely helped others that didn't know too - so a good post!

Not much to add, Pezzy and Ty coverd the later R50s well. I'll just expand a little: The Automode transfer case is identifiable by the selector switch below the radio vs. the shift lever for the standard tcase. The Automode in 2Hi 4Hi and 4Lo work just like the standard tcase but also has an automatic mode. This mode runs in 2wd until rear wheel slip is detected and then engages power to the front axle. This is accomplished by a wet clutch system inside the tcase - note the front axle is live all the time, no hubs to engage or worry about. I have seen the automode in all trim levels here though it is more common with Auto trans and in SE/LE models. Maintenance on the VQ - only thing I have done is to check the tightness on the power valve screws. A small percentage of automatic trans 3.5L trucks have engine failures due to the power valve screws comine loose. Not too hard to fix. I beleive the 03-04 3.5s are drive by wire throttle (anyone confirm this?) Pathfounder compared the maintenance to an 80s Chevy. Might be true on 3.3L, but the 3.5s I don't think so, though there are some trade-offs. The VQ3.5 has no distributor or spark plug wires, so no maintenance there. However the plugs are a little harder to get at and are expensive. The alternator is at the bottom of the engine bay vs the top for a chevy. The front disc brake rotors are big deal to remove and replace vs. a chevy rotor which comes off after removing the caliper bracket. Last point for now: If you are tall and used to north american vehciles, the pathfinder will seem small. I am only 6'1" and have little headroom. The rear hatch catches me in the forehead (good reason for a lift!!) and the seat bases are a little shorter than I would like. These rigs don't have a tilt steering wheel, they have a tilt steering column which compared to the tilt in an 80s or 90s Blazer is no where near as nice. However I find these shortcomings are made up for in reduce maintenance requirements, less sqeaks and rattles, and generally less drama to drive. HTH.

If you are talking about the two trans cooling lines that go to the radiator, well, I think every automatic trans has that in all vehicles for several decades. You may need to drive for a bit to see if the level has changed (follow the OM for proper checking procedure). I doubt you have hurt anything presuming you didn't get any dirt in the lines. I recommend double clamping the hoses you added since there won't be any barb in the line where you cut into it.

I know, sorry if it came off harsh, not my intention. Being a muscle car buff I get too caught up in the details, lol. BTW, I did enjoy the references, particularily the street freak graphics. Were you reading Car Craft in 1983 too?

This might be of interest http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28264&st=0&p=534973&&do=findComment&comment=534973

You are likely thinking of the Dodge Daytona and Plymouth Superbird that had the crazy big wings... http://images.pictur...bird-206842.jpg However the Super Bee was uber cool, would love to have a '68 http://1.bp.blogspot...e+Super+Bee.jpg Any engine has its issues, Xterra guys battle knock sensor problems and VQ owners with automatics deal with power valve screws. Both engines are pretty well proven. The VQ was on Wards Top 10 engines for about 10 years, that has to tell you something...

very nice!

The idler pulley should spin freely - when turning it slowly you will feel it br a little grabby or inconsistent if it is going bad usually, not a smooth running feel. I wonder if it is the A/C clutch? See if it does that with the A/C or defrost and then not with everything off. Just trying to think of something that might be more intermittent...

Awesome!! A pathy in a tux. I'm sure you are well aware of the power valve screw issue, otherwise the VQ is a great engine! Congrats.

Thanks ModiFinder (btw, I can relate a little to your "about me" profile note) One thing I might add to my post above: my perspective was only from that of normally aspirated engines. Adding squeeze, boost or juice makes the oil much more critical.

If you ask 10 people what oil to run in (insert engine, vehicle here) you will get at least 10 opinions, likley more. They key thing is to buy something with a quality name behind it. Even more important is to buy a good filter. I really like K&N filters as they have the integrated nut that lets you use a standard socket to remove it instead of messing around with filter wrenches. Second to that is likely an OEM filter. Also highly rated are WIX. I have heard purolater are good, but not tried them myself. DINO vs Synthetic: Hands down synthetic is better oil. The science is out there. However, it is uncommon to hear of engines failing now-a-days like was the case 30+ years ago. In the 60s 100k miles was "good" as the oil and machining tolerances was poor. In recent years 200k miles is common even 250k miles is not unheard of. I run the Dino oil and have no problems, have for a couple of decades now, regularily with engines pushing 200k miles - invariably the rest of the vehicle has issues causing me to get rid of it before the engine fails. To me the cheif dawback of the Dino oil is more frequent oil changes. I however enjoy changing my oil. Others may find this a pita and so synthetic is a great choice. Personally I think Shell makes great oil. But since one can find many different opinions on what is best, I think the differences are measurable, but practically speaking are not that huge. Maybe a big deal if you intend to shoot for mileage much higher than common... One last thing, if buying discount oil, especially dino oil at walmart, check the back of the bottle. In the past Walmart has sold oil with lesser and/or older certifications than the same brand has elsewhere. This is how they can get their price down. I don;t know if they still do this, I won't shop at Walmart, the store pisses me off. Of interest, the W in 5W30 etc. refers to Winter. Mulitgrade oils have the first number as a reference to cold viscosity and the second to hot giving indication of how it might behave in your engine in the winter and summer. Check you owner's manual for grade based on the climate/temperature you live in. Should be a difference bewteen Arizona and Alaska. Someone mentioned ZDDP. THe gov't has been really backing down on the zinc for several years now. I have been reading a little bit on this since it is an issue for those trying to break in a new camshaft in older cars (muscle cars) that need this. The zinc content is needed at the tappet/cam interface to reduce wear during break-in. I have found that this is not as much of an issue for modern vehicles which tend to have roller cams/valvetrain. In any case, it is getting harder to find oils with usefull amounts of ZDDP, I think the desired level is 1200-1400ppm for the older engines. You may find this more often in oils meant for diesels like Rotella T 15w-40.

Just seeing this thread - man that sux!!! Hope your recovery is speedy - however the siatic thing can take a while to heal, don't rush it!! In the damage photos is the upper portion of the rearmost left side window pushed out a bit or is that my eyes playing tricks on me? I can't speak to insurance in MB for sure, but, based on my experience in ON: You don't have to accept the Insurance companies first offer. If you decide to fight their offer: Know the fair market of your vehicle, document it on paper (net links fade). This is your biggest evidence of value. Get closest matches possible, expand search area if needed. Have 5-10 examples. Ignore examples that match yours that are really low in value, you want to show how awesome yours is. Use dealer ads. Get all the insruance co's information first!! Get their adjuster's assesment with quotes. Take it to a body shop you trust for a second opinion. Used doors or whatever might lower to quote. The Ins Co might have overstated the value of repairs if it benefitted them to write it off. They may have devalued your vehcile based on condition (arbitrary assessment and valuation) and mau have done so to their favour. Knowledge is power. Realize the Ins Co factors in rental costs in their mind. Could be a bargaining chip for you possibly. If you can tolerate the delay, the company wants fast resolution. It costs them money to delay/have an open claim. They may strong arm you into settling (cut of rental, veiled threats of court action etc.) You may have an option to go to arbitration (costs you money though) if you think it is worth it. An independant appraiser working for you is needed if so. If you settle for a write off, be sure to get the money plus taxes. I can't stress the first two enough. In Ontario auto insurance is the root of all evil and will screw you if they can. I hope you have better experiences... Good luck, pm me if desired for more on how I fought the ins co and won vs a write off.

Glad to hear it! Was it hard to take it easy until the break-in mileage had lapsed?

Neat mod!