BowTied

I think most are using the red "permanent" loc-tite.

Good follow-up post. Any tuning left you can do?

Could a leaky injector cause this?

Last spring I went through the whole buying a trailer thing on a budget, pm me if you have any questions - happy to help. Good luck.

My old chevy used to do that. A boost would fix it. I thought it was the battery but turned out to be the starter solenoid was cooked.

You will need to consider a lightweight trailer I think. Pop-ups are usually and easy tow. Some vintage trailers are light too, less than a ton.

Our condolences to his family....

Uh, Pezzy, this has been discussed before you know. Just kidding - great points. This is good ambassdorship for this website.

Al, how many miles? It sounds to me like you need new front struts....

Looking good! Unless you want to change the spring rate, I can't see why a rigid extension that moves one of the spring mounting points back to the stock separation distance wouldn't work. What ever the stock distance between spring mounts is what you want to shoot for, a differnt spring will change the spring rate unless you figure what the stock spring is and order a new one accordingly.

If it works it will be tight. Take a look at this pic in my photobucket album plus the next 11 pics in the sequence. I do not think this is at full flex, but it is getting there, best I could do with where I was. These pics are stock size 1st gen Xterra rims and tires on my pathy (same offset etc) which I believe are P265 70 16. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t199/Bow_Tied/Pathy/PathywXrims008.jpg I don't think they would rub, or if they did it would not be by a lot - only worst case. If you are a risk taker, go for it. Standard tire size would be 255 70 16 = 30 1/16" OD 265 70 16 = 30 5/8" OD However this should be verified as brand and type could vary this...

Clearly, I am a huge moron. My wife (who drives the pathy everyday as it is "hers") informs me that it does indeed have dual sunvisors. I will go and sit in the corner and start drinking heavily in order to have a an actual excuse for my next screw up.

You mean you have the dual sun visor set-up or the home link garage door opener deal, or both? My 02 LE has the homelink, but only the single sunvisor thing. My biggest pet peeve about the pathy sunvisors isn't the lack of the second one but rather the primary one is too short when turned to the side - it needs the slide out extender!

Maybe try reversing 10'?

FWIW, here are the "X" wheels from an Xterra - note the stock Xterra tire size so the tires look too big. There was no rubbing here, but not at full flex either. Here are the same rims, but with the proper size tires. No spacers, bolt on. This is otherwise a bone stock truck.

Now it sounds like timing! seriously though, it does.

Agreed with Kove.... you could even have fuel, but not enough pressure.... I have only installed distributors on carb'd engines, so that manual "at 11o;clock" thing seems weird to me. If cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, then the rotor should point just a few degrees before the number on wire on the cap - regardless of anything else.... If it was running for a a few seconds on the starter fluid then it is more likely a fuel issue, just saying...

I am sure by now you doubled checked the firing order already, the coil is properly wired, ground wires/straps are in place and you have tested for spark and fuel by the proper procedures in a repair manual. Perhaps the little zap you had at the battery did fry the ECU....? I hate when that happens.

How did you install the distributor? It can be easy to accidently put it in 180 degrees out of phase on some engines... I don't know the VGs very well though.

I agree that octane booster is not likely changing your fuel economy from 15mpg to 6mpg. However, your comments on octane are a little misguided, not your fault likely as this is commonly misquoted on the net. Fuel of differnet octanes does not burn faster or slower, though you will hear that on the internet often as it does seem like that is the case. The speed of the flame front propigation is essentially the same. What is different is that the energy input required to initiate the chemical reaction that is combustion is higher with higher octane rated fuels. This allows for a more controlled combustion and resistance to autoignition due to high compression in performance cars. From Wikipedia: So, I agree that this is not likely your problem as the reported mileage of 6.5mpg if accurate is way too significant in my opinion to be caused soley by using octane booster. It is however not likely doing anything beyond lightening your wallet.

Oh, didn't know it is a manual, good. However, if your thermostat is lazy or stuck partly open, or if the temperature sensor is not acting properly, your warm up preparations will not aid you. Unless you know that your engine is operating above approx 75 deg C (~170F) it could be running too cool or taking a long time to get to this temp affecting your mileage. If you have a code indicating an O2 malfunction replace the sensor - that has always worked for me.

A tail spin? Not likely, there would be some safe mode pre-set fuel map - which would likely be conservative (rich) to avoid a dangerous lean condition. If you are getting 400-450km in a long trip but crappy mileage in a short trip, the truck may taking too long to warm up. I snagged the following from a different thread where I was helping someone who thought they were revving high on the highway... When you first start your truck (cold) the engine operates in "open loop mode" This bypasses readings from the O2 sensor and the engine runs rich to help it warm up. During this time the automatic transmission's lock-up torque convertor will not lock up. This causes higher RPMs. Once the engine reaches the correct operating temperature the O2 sensors come on line and lean out the mixture and the torque convertor locks up which drops the RPM a bit (feeling like a shift into OD). This allows the engine to warm up and the truck to go down the road in the best manner possible until things are warmed up. If the warm up period is taking longer than it used to, it could be: Very cold outside Thermostat stuck partially open (most common in my experience) or incorrect thermostat engine temperature sensor malfunction Some O2 sensors also have a heater circuit in them.... My pre-96 vehicles did not, I am not sure about the early pathys. This is another failure mode that can use fuel on short trips.

It is likely that those numbers are conservative. The tank capacity might be 80, but chances are there are several, 10L?, left in the bottom still at refill. So there is a chance you are actually getting 14mpg. OP: does all this ^ help? Reference: Mpg........ Liters Per 100 K 12.00..... 19.60 12.50..... 18.81 13.00..... 18.09 13.50..... 17.42 14.00..... 16.80 14.50..... 16.22 15.00..... 15.68 15.50..... 15.17 16.00..... 14.70

I'll assume you are running at least a 180 stat. If everything is working so great, perhaps you are getting better mileage that you realize. How many kilometers per tank do you get? Have you verified your odometer is accurate? Is this a carb or FI?

Are you running a thermostat? Does it rev high on the highway?