BowTied

Not Canada, just Ontario, and It sure feels like sometimes,

Don't get me wrong, I want to go 100mph, but the law around here is super nuts.

You regularily drive 100mph?!?! We would instantly lose our license and our vehicle on the spot if caught doing that here plus fines. If you are driving that speed, making the exhaust more restricitive is not likely doing your engine any favours, it would likely be making it work harder if anything. You would be better off in investing in a high end muffler (or 2!) that were free flowing and quiet... maybe a flowmaster delta 50 or something, not sure. The cut-outs would only serve as noise makers.... the gains you would see from this would only be at WOT or close to it and on the trail would suffer some torque loss - or if you end up managing the torque loss somehow, then you would have a net zero for HP/TQ, just the noise. JMO.

Have you added a turbo? Why are you are VTA instead of using a PCV?

What was the problem? Was there a toyota floor mat under the clutch? We need to know!

2001-2004 is not a VG engine, it is a VQ3.5L. Couldn't tell you if it will bolt in or not tho.

Ah, if you got those main 4 in you should be good to go since that is all the aftermarket class 3 hitches use.

Ah, if you got those main 4 in you should be good to go since that is all the aftermarket class 3 hitches use.

Which two are not installed? If one of the 4 bolts visible in dudu's pic I think those are the primary ones for load....While what your plans may involve low loading and missing 2 bolts 'good enough', if something ever happened this would be good enough reason for an insurance company to deny claim. Be very cautious if you ever lend you vehicle out too. JMO. Not trying to be a d!ck, just don't want to see the worst happen.

Because the pathy has a separate brake/signal light and most trailers have a combined set-up you need a module of some kind. The one I bought is plug and play - you unplug your tail light sockets in the truck, plug them into the module and plug the module harness back into the tail lights. Pay attention to the right and left sides when pluggin into the module of course. If the wrecked pathy has this module, should be able to transfer the whole thing assuming the taillight plugs all match...

Very nice install on the speaker! Sorry if this is a dumb question, but why do you have carpet on your dash?

Charging pipe = dipstick tube

HTH = Hope that helps I don't really follow that logic since ideal conditions never happen when it is slippery but if it works for you that's all that matters. IMO shifting to neutral vs leaving it in drive is not going to be, practically speaking, any difference for when the rear tires regain traction. When (hopefully) the rears do regain traction then engine braking will help. At least this is what works for me. Practice it up some and let us know what you think.

Well my rig is not lifted so my experince may not be helpful... When I have seen CVs fail they tend to make more of a clicking noise. Troubleshooting noises over the net can be hard, one persons click is another's thud. Did the thud noise happen all the time in 4Hi? Only when turning? Any worse if turning (one way or the other)? I am doubtful the loose wheel or snow in teh CVs is the problem, but anything is possible. Could it be a snow/ice build up in the front fender wells hitting the tire? I'd think it would do that in 2Hi as well tho.

That sux! Yeah move it to a new spot and lean some tires against it so it looks normal, lol. I second the idea of talking to your superintendant - you have nothing to lose in asking for an extension.

This is a manual tcase, right? What happens, front wheels not grabbing or no movement of the truck at all? Front wheels grab in 4Lo?

When you first start your truck (cold) the engine operates in "open loop mode" This bypasses readings from the O2 sensor and the engine runs rich to help it warm up. During this time the automatic transmission's lock-up torque convertor will not lock up. This causes higher RPMs. Once the engine reaches the correct operating temperature the O2 sensors come on line and lean out the mixture and the torque convertor locks up which drops the RPM a bit (feeling like a shift into OD). This allows the engine to warm up and the truck to go down the road in the best manner possible until things are warmed up. If the warm up period is taking longer than it used to, it could be: Very cold outside Thermostat stuck partially open (most common in my experience) or incorrect thermostat engine temperature sensor malfunction HTH

I have been driving in the snow belt of SW Ontario for over 20 years....I am gong to give a different view point here. In a RWD automatic vehicle, do not shift to neutral. If your foot is off the gas and the brake, the engine braking will slow the rear wheels which naturally helps correct the vehicle fishtale. Let the laws of physics help you, slowing the rear wheels tends to straighten the vehicle trajectory. The OPPOSITE is true for for FWD, here shifting to neutral is a good idea as slowing the front drive wheels tends to exagerate the fishtale. In certain cases with FWD, apply the gas can pull you out of the fishtale. OP: you did the right thing letting off the gas and not touching the brakes and counter-steering into the turn. This may have saved your bacon preventing a roll-over. What you may have experienced here is that an SUV being long and heavy will act like a pendulum moreso than a smaller, lighter car. Once the fishtale started it takes a lot more time and room to control it. I suspect you may have over-corrected your counter steer (not hard to do at that speed, in a new-to-you vehicle!). It will never be the same as highway speed, but practing some intentional fishtales and corrective steering in a parking lot can help give you a feel for the weight of the back end of your rig. Yeah, snows may have helped a little, but the temp has not been that cold lately. Double check that your tires are in decent shape, same tread wear all around and at proper inflation. If there are two tires that are better than the others put them on the back. HTH

I remember that canister being a pita to work around. I can't recall if I unbolted a part of it and let it hang or what I did. I shoulda taken pics for a write up.

I somehow missed your post, sorry. The job is really more time consuming that hard. It is simply a series of unbolt and bolt it back up. But I realize comfort level varies with engines. If you decide to tackle it yourself, just write down each step as you go and keep good track of all the fasteners. It would be my opinion that a competent dealer could perform this task in about 2 hours. Joe average garage, maybe 3 hours. That should give you an idea of labour charges. Yours might be fine as is as there is only a small percentage of them experiencing failure. You will never know until you do the maintenance or it is too late. So, it is one of those Clint Eastwood moments: "...you've got to ask yourself one question: Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?"

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17104&view=findpost&p=277553

It was my understanding that 01-04 Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4s were nearly identical save for rims, trim and maybe different struts or something like that. It may even be true, for hitch mounting that '96-04 is the same. Hopefully somebidy will confirm.

Glad I could help. I have not seen the factory hitch with 6 holes/side, post a up a pic when you have a chance. BTW, $70 is a very nice score!!!! I got stupid lucky and bought a brand new Reese missing the box and instrutions on fleabay and got it shipped cross the border to my door for the same price.

I recommend new, *quality* bolts. Failure here is not worth the $3. JMO. Cross threading is a concern, but if you take your time you will be fine. The only caution I give you is the hitch should have 4 bolts per side, those tow plates have 3. The 4th hole is already there with a nut, so that is good, but it may be full of rust or mud so clean the threads... I think it is a 14mm but I am going off of memory. When I did mine I did not have a tap the right size to clean the threads. What I did was take a small cut off wheel (hack saw might work) and make some slit cuts in the old bolts. I then deburred the bolts with a wire wheel and use this as my tap. I coated the slits with grease to be sure that my "tap" captured and removed any debris or chips from the nut. Hope that helps. EDIT: IIRC the torque was 68ft.lbs, but double check that. If you want actual install instructions several hitch manufactures have them on-line to d/l. Good luck.

I think 01s had a recall on the rear hatch strut mounts. Since your car is now in a different country, the recall repair may not be free, not sure. Hopefully it has been done. If it is an automatic, check the threads on powervalve screws. I did a write up on the fix and it is posted on here somewhere... I don't think it ever got stickied, but is linked in the sticky thread about the problem.