BowTied

Remember, the CF clutches use special weights to gain a large part of their clamping force - which doesn't really actuate until higher RPMs making them great for daily driving and finessing the clutch and therefore should not be significantly harder on slave cylinders at all. I suspect the one you had was on its way out and the new clutch just finished it off. This may be in part the different clutch setting which changes where the piston sits on the seal - a somewhat common problem on some rear drum brake changes where the new shoes make the piston sit further into the wheel cylinder causing it to leak. I never had the problem of the slave cylinder going after the install of the CF II because my car has no slave cylinder - it is all mechanical linkage. The mechanical linkage however gives fantastic feedback. I was previously running a borg&beck style Hayes clutch and was terrible for clutch chatter when trying to finesse it (partly due to my gearing but ) mainly due to heavy clamping forces - my leg would get sore in stop and go traffic. The CF II is not a borg&beck but rather a diaphragm style much like the stock clutches and the release pressure is very similar. Not saying that CF is the absolute best, I am sure there lots of clutches out there that could do the job nicely. I will say a LOT of people use them on the strip and the street easily. I can't see why they wouldn't hold up well on the trail.

Yeah, the centerforce should be great - I have a centerforce II that holds just over 400ft.lbs in my almost 2 ton '69 chevelle. I would recommend the II to you without hesitation. The Centerforce I is supposed to be ~30% greater clamp force than stock, the II 60% more, and the DF about 90% more...or something like that. One thing to note with the DF: you must replace the disk and pressure plate as a matched set. You can order the disk separate for the I or the II. If the flywheel has not been resrufaced before, and there are not hot spots on it, it should be ok for a resurface.

I put Xterra rims on my '02 to use with winter tires, no problems.

If it was me I would just cut the harness and add in some extra wire that was the same gauge or better and make sure I did a quality solder and heat shrink job on the connections. Anyone know why that wouldn't work?

I have to second putting the IAT in the actual air intake, I think your engine will operate better. It might be splitting hairs, but... Ya, the hinge idea was a little wacked. I wasn't thinking of welding it in, just bolt or rivit, but stil it would be tedious to make it look nice. Putting the duct straight to the filter would be great if there was an air box in between to let water settle. It would give a colder air charge which would be better for power. But you'd need to move it all every time you wanted to do a water crossing.

I like your ingenuity! This reminds me of muscle car era Pontiac Ram air systems - if the hose was connected direct. I presume the IAT sensor will be between the cone filter and the TB? The hose routes easily enough I presume. You could put your plate on a hinge and have it bolt open or closed.... or put a power door lock actuator on it, lol. Ok, I got carried away there. Looks good!

Welcome! Where in Ontario are you?

I have no advice on your questions... but very interesting group. What are the laws here? I read there something about high-water/low water mark... if I am walking in the water, am I completely off the private land area?

I have no answers for you but am interested to hear the outcome....

Just a note, the body style changed part way through 99 - the 99.5 - 2004 look pretty similar. In 2001 the 3.5L came out and has more horsepower, so that might be something to consider.

What is the deal with the Warn studs breaking? Are they using poor quality studs or are they designed to fail early (like a shear pin) so you don't bust up CVs? Anyone every quiz warn on this?

Make sure to know if there is any valve interference when changing heads. Make sure you are referencing stock height head gaskets or know the difference. I have no idea if this is really necessary or not, but if information is lacking play it safe. g/l

good info!

Decide what is the most money you think you can afford for it. Offer him half of that. If he says no, say ok, thanks. Wait 2 days, go back and say you borred a few bucks from a friend and give <3/4 of what you'd pay> cash.

I think most are using the red "permanent" loc-tite.

Good follow-up post. Any tuning left you can do?

Could a leaky injector cause this?

Last spring I went through the whole buying a trailer thing on a budget, pm me if you have any questions - happy to help. Good luck.

My old chevy used to do that. A boost would fix it. I thought it was the battery but turned out to be the starter solenoid was cooked.

You will need to consider a lightweight trailer I think. Pop-ups are usually and easy tow. Some vintage trailers are light too, less than a ton.

Our condolences to his family....

THose speed bumps wouldn't work very well in Canada. I think the snowploughs would rip 'em off.

The Vietnam vet that called it in should be given the keys to the city IMHO. Good for him.

Uh, Pezzy, this has been discussed before you know. Just kidding - great points. This is good ambassdorship for this website.

Welcome!