BowTied

A bobcat on a trailer needs trailer brakes IMO. Be safe man.

Automatic owners who tow regularily: Do you have an add on trans cooler?

My theory is reduced warranty claims on the clutch.

What was the weight of the trailer plus contents, any idea?

I haven't towed anything heavier than a pop-up tent trailer with our R50. That was easy, but not much over 2k lbs with gear. WIth other vehicles I have owned the common theme I heard was "don't tow in OD" to save your trans. This was with GM vehicles and was doable since the axle gears in GMs are typically higher than in pathfinders (3.42:1 vs 4.363:1 for example). To not use OD in the pathy I think the revs would be very high on the freeway and tolerable but kinda high on regular highways. Any thoughts on that? A pathy auto trans is not cheap.

I can't speak to the price he is asking as every area has a different supply/demand. Not sure on the fitment. Be aware of the power valve screw issue. I would make inspection of these condition of sale if it were me.

If they wouldn't tell you which one it was NEVER go back there. JMO

No, I believe that is the blower motor resistor for standard HVAC. The climate control has an electronic "amplifier" module (which does the same thing except it can ramp fan speed up and down to the setting, more variable control). Some more help: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/1509-auto-c-hvac-fan-only-work-speed-4-a.html http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19520

Yup, it is the module for the blower motor. This is the electronic version of the fan resistor on non-climate control cars. The good news is it is an easy replace job. It is behind the glove box. Bad news is the module ain't cheap. Here in the GWN it was $200, but you southerners should be able to get a better price.

In all probability it is either your cap has a crack or your spark plugs are old and will take on moisture. Either one can cause problems. If you have not done a tune-up since getting the truck I recommend cap/rotor/wires (and plugs too if you can) along with a new air filter for good measure. I suspect that would fix the problem. There could be other possibilities but a tune up is good insurance anyway. G/L

Sorry that I am correct. Expensive part I think, but hopefully no suspension or other front end parts at least.

This fit your symptoms? http://www.ehow.com/how_7226376_diagnose-bad-steering-rack.html

Sounds like your steering rack is pooched. Get this to a shop asap.

Don't know the answer, but I wonder if you the wider foot print might not hurt you in some situations, like mud... and fuel economy.

Very cool! Do you have hood vents over the intercoolers?

Unless the PO change mine (I bought at 67000 miles) and now just about to 100,000 miles and no issues yet....

Use the vehicle, not the tire, pressure for stock size tires. Non-stock tires the chalk mark idea is a good one. Using the tire rating on larger than stock tires is very likely to have the tire over-inflated - the tire can be used in many applications.

3.5s can be a pig in city driving, but that is still a bit on the low side, I'd think you should get 15. Check your air filter and try another tank to be sure. Are you running premium?

Change the o2 sensor if it is pretty old.

And clean all the grounds.

Speaking from experience on other vehicles, X2 on connections from the battery all the way to the starter. Also make sure you don't have a wire that is touching the manifold or other hot surface and is shorting out when hot. Or it could be coincidence the starter was on its way out when you did the clutch.

no idea, but I'll bump the post up for ya.

The black part is the hitch, aka receiver. The drawbar can be purchased with or without a ball. The two common ball sizes are 1-7/8" or 2".

Make sure you estimate total cost of ownership. Consider insurance, estimated repairs, and fuel economy (actually run the numbers in a spreadsheet or on paper). Find the monthly difference to see if it is really worthwhile, Before buying the pathy people were telling me I would go broke with the fuel bill. I don't drive a lot of kilometres in a year so I did the math compared to a car I would actually own (no hyundai pony fot me!) and found it was a few hundred per year more - worth it to me to have a 4x4 in the snowbelt. Everyone's situation is different. But if you lose $2k selling it in value it would take several years for the pay back possibly. Been outa work b4; I wish ya good luck man.

Interesting. Are your springs wre out possibly?