BowTied

If you decide to bore the wheel centre out a bit to fit the hub, do all 4 rims so you can still rotate tires. I highly doubt that the amount of material removed would affect structural integrity, in fact I thought someone here had done it already. If you get into moderate+ off roading you'd likely be picking up some steel rims anyway, no?

If you are really unsure of what to get him, go to the local performance parts store and get a gift certificate. Be careful getting him something for his truck that is a huge project to install unless you know is in to that. Some mechanics I know do not want to do that sorta thing in their time off after spending 40+ hours working on vehicles. At his age that is a low risk, still lots of energy lol, but just sayin'.

Very cool, I like Scottys! Didn't know anyone else here had a vintage camper. We have a '59 Shasta Airflyte.

A bobcat on a trailer needs trailer brakes IMO. Be safe man.

Automatic owners who tow regularily: Do you have an add on trans cooler?

My theory is reduced warranty claims on the clutch.

What was the weight of the trailer plus contents, any idea?

I haven't towed anything heavier than a pop-up tent trailer with our R50. That was easy, but not much over 2k lbs with gear. WIth other vehicles I have owned the common theme I heard was "don't tow in OD" to save your trans. This was with GM vehicles and was doable since the axle gears in GMs are typically higher than in pathfinders (3.42:1 vs 4.363:1 for example). To not use OD in the pathy I think the revs would be very high on the freeway and tolerable but kinda high on regular highways. Any thoughts on that? A pathy auto trans is not cheap.

My 99 got to 270k km without having this issue, so I may not be a lot of help. These engines do require a lot of fuel pressure to run properly. The fact that it runs well cold seems to make me think it is not a fuel pump/pressure thing (it starts right up without trouble cold, right?). It is acting like there is a sensor problem when it comes out of open loop mode. Anyone else think this? Fuel pumps are not particularily cheap. Are there any CEL codes?

I can't speak to the price he is asking as every area has a different supply/demand. Not sure on the fitment. Be aware of the power valve screw issue. I would make inspection of these condition of sale if it were me.

If they wouldn't tell you which one it was NEVER go back there. JMO

No, I believe that is the blower motor resistor for standard HVAC. The climate control has an electronic "amplifier" module (which does the same thing except it can ramp fan speed up and down to the setting, more variable control). Some more help: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/1509-auto-c-hvac-fan-only-work-speed-4-a.html http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19520

Yup, it is the module for the blower motor. This is the electronic version of the fan resistor on non-climate control cars. The good news is it is an easy replace job. It is behind the glove box. Bad news is the module ain't cheap. Here in the GWN it was $200, but you southerners should be able to get a better price.

In all probability it is either your cap has a crack or your spark plugs are old and will take on moisture. Either one can cause problems. If you have not done a tune-up since getting the truck I recommend cap/rotor/wires (and plugs too if you can) along with a new air filter for good measure. I suspect that would fix the problem. There could be other possibilities but a tune up is good insurance anyway. G/L

Sorry that I am correct. Expensive part I think, but hopefully no suspension or other front end parts at least.

This fit your symptoms? http://www.ehow.com/how_7226376_diagnose-bad-steering-rack.html

Sounds like your steering rack is pooched. Get this to a shop asap.

Don't know the answer, but I wonder if you the wider foot print might not hurt you in some situations, like mud... and fuel economy.

Very cool! Do you have hood vents over the intercoolers?

Unless the PO change mine (I bought at 67000 miles) and now just about to 100,000 miles and no issues yet....

Use the vehicle, not the tire, pressure for stock size tires. Non-stock tires the chalk mark idea is a good one. Using the tire rating on larger than stock tires is very likely to have the tire over-inflated - the tire can be used in many applications.

People get all wound up about Horespower when in fact, especially in trucks, it is all about torque. Even then, people get all wound up about the peak torque. What is really important is the torque over the useable RPM range. No doubt, the 3.5 has a higher peak HP and I think even higher peak Torque. But don't discount the 4.3 all together. I bet a pathy would beat it in a race. But it might be a different story towing. The chevy owner in this case needs to get some education though, as the pathy would likely surprise him!! - I have a 4.3 and a 3.5, I know!

3.5s can be a pig in city driving, but that is still a bit on the low side, I'd think you should get 15. Check your air filter and try another tank to be sure. Are you running premium?

Change the o2 sensor if it is pretty old.

And clean all the grounds.