BowTied

Awesome, that was my hunch that it was the CV, glad it was an easy fix - and with warranty to boot! Wish all my repairs went down like that.

^ because he had the distributor out of the engine.

Could it be the CV itself? If you jack that wheel up, can you turn the CV? If so, any crunching noise?

I bought mine at a discount store in Canada called princess auto a few years ago, but I would hope you could get it at any good auto parts store. If you find these stores do not have it, almost certainly a performance shop that serves muscle cars and tuner cars should have this. 99% of the time the factory TDC mark should be spot on as in general things are keyed to the crankshaft. I don't know nissan engines very well to be honest. In a chevy engine the damper is constructed of two steel rings with a rubber material between. With age of the ruber the outer ring (with the mark) can slip and then you'd use the above to verify the mark (and then know you should replace the damper). If you find your TDC mark is off, double check with a nissan engine knowledgeable person to be certain what I wrote applies, though it should apply to any piston engine of any make. I should also add to disconnect the battery if using a piston stop....

pull plug #1 and put your thumb over the plug hole. As your buddy rotates the engine by hand the compression should want to blow your thumb off the head. Then you know you are on the compression stroke and the piston is approaching TDC. If you suspect the mark on the damper is not accurate, purchase a piston stop (a hollow brass tube with spark plug threads and wrench flats). Thread it into the #1 plug hole all the way (not stupid tight). Rotate the engine by hand till the piston hits the stop, gently. Mark the damer with a temporary mark at the timing tab. Do this again but rotate the engine the other way. TDC will be half way between your temporary marks.

Yeah. I thought they were live all the time - no auto hubs - with the automode tcase?

OP: great post, thanks for taking the time to do it. We realize that you didn't intend to be wholly scientific, no worries. This is a real world test and it is useful for comparison sake and as a guideline. I appreciate that you ran some fuel in between tests to allow some computer learn time. I wonder how many tanks is required for that? If you ever decide to repeat the test (such as after a tune up) I suggest running a bottle of good fuel injector cleaner through a litle while before starting the test (5-6 tanks before maybe). I would also recommend that the next time start with the premium. If you have the time and patience (now I am asking a lot with this one): run at least 6 tanks of each to improve the average accuracy. If you are wanting to reach for the stars on this also do a set of midgrade tank tests (having had my doubts on the value vs economy vs performance thing myself I run midgrade all the time). I'd do the test myself but my wife gets to drive the pathy all the time

One of the big doors in my garage has had the header panel and studs cut out and reframed and installed on hinges. THe garage door tracks were raised to match (I added some track extensions at the bottom). I presume a PO had an RV or something. Might work for you?

As a guess, a switch in the signal wire from the radio to the antenna would do the trick.

What happened to cause all that carnage in one outing?

I tried to remove mine once per spaz's instructions and it did want to let go. I was tryng to fix a stuck mast, but ended up npt needing to remove it. What is an OE vs. fleabay replacement worth? What is the proper lube to use on the mast?

Recently add oil? maybe some dripped on the exhaust?

16 rims should be fine, I run terra rims for winters. If you get the same size OD tire then the spare would be ok.

I am not 100% sure i have you, but I will try. The output of the SBC engine and trans is in the dead centre of the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. If the stock engine mounts are equidistant from the centre of the vehicle, then it is just a matter of adapting mounts. If the pinion in the rear end is in the centre also, then that is fine. WHen it come to the tcase stuff and the front pinion alignment, I can't help, you will need to do some research. Position the engine as close to the firewall as you can that still permits the distributor to be serviced. In some application (dunno about this one) the firewall can be dimpled or cut and a dished piece welded in the aid clearance there. Did that help a little? Likely what you need to know most is how to connect the front axle/tcase. I agree that the carb idea is antiquated. EFI is more efficient. If you go EFI you will need to research that the stock pathy fuel pump has suffcient capacity in pressure and volume. Some GM engines such as the vortec series in the blazers for example have pretty high pressure requirements. If you need a GM pump some of them are pricey and you may need to have the top of the fuel tank modified. Another option could be to get an aftermarket fuel pump like a holley or mallory. The Holley blue fuel pump is reasonably reliable but it is LOUD. You get what you pay for here. Regardless you'd likely? need a fuel regulator. Ensure any rubber lines are pressure rated, ideally this is the time to replace them. I would suspect you may need the SBC ECM. If so then you'd need the corresponding sensors like MAF, O2 etc. The carb is surely simpler, eh? Regardless of that,... if the chevy engine has any oil leaks deal with those before putting them. It will have a timing chain which is great, but the timing chain cover seal may in part sealing with the oil pan. Way easier to deal with that before install. Certainly a 350 can be easily built to 300HP+ with little effort. I wouldn't worry about that a lot unless you lack self control. Chances are the issue will be low end torque vs the weaker links in the system like ujoints or CVs. I suspect a stock engine with 225HP would do you fine if you can find one in that range. The GM crate "Target Master" 350s are in expensive (relative to other crate engines) and not high on HP which might also be a good candidate. Unless you are a leadfoot, low end torque will be you saviour and possible your curse if you don't excercise some caution. If the diffs are strong as noted and you get upgrade ujoints and CVs, might have a helluva rig that way. The other option of rebuilding the VG is good one. Sure, you have to tear the engine at least part way down and rework it assuming you know how, but the fuel system, sensors, mounts etc. can be left stock.

I decided to look in the FSM: 1 CHECK 4WD SHIFT INDICATOR LAMP 1. Set 4WD shift switch to “2WD” position. 2. Move vehicle forward and backward. Or drive straight increasing or decreasing speed under 20 km/h (12 MPH). 3. Does 4WD shift indicator lamp keep flickering? Yes or No Yes © GO TO 2. No © INSPECTION END 2 CHECK TIGHT CORNER BRAKING SYMPTOM Drive vehicle at speed under 20 km/h (12 MPH), turning steering wheel to the limit. Does tight corner braking symptom occur? Yes or No Yes © GO TO 3. No © GO TO 4. 3 CHECK 4WD SHIFT INDICATOR LAMP Does the 4WD shift indicator lamp keep flickering when the front wheels are jacked up? Yes or No Yes © Check transfer unit operating system. No © Check tires. 4 CHECK 4WD WARNING LAMP Does 4WD warning lamp flicker? (4WD shift indicator lamp is turned OFF.) Yes or No Yes © Perform self-diagnoses. Refer to "Trouble Diagnosis without CONSULT-II", TF-59. No © GO TO 5. 5 CHECK 4WD SHIFT INDICATOR LAMP Does 4WD shift indicator lamp keep flickering? Yes or No Yes © Check again. No © INSPECTION END Of course this is just a small clip from the section, you might be best to d/l the FSM and read this section first.

driving backwards I don't think will do much, an 01 with Automode has a wet clutch tcase system instead of auto hubs as I understand it. You said it goes into Auto ok? The selector switch creates a beep as normal, but the indicator on the instrument cluster is flashing? Weird, haven't had that happen. Hopefully someone else will chime in....

If there are some easier trails in your area I really recommend getting out there and enjoying your truck while it is stock. Stock 4x4s will do a lot given a chance and some common sense. This also lets you learn the ropes like: finding out what you forgot to pack, picking lines through tougher terrain, extraction, etc. when you are not in over your head. Plus you can enjoy your vehicle without spending reams of cash on mods right away - it will help you decide which mods you need first depending on your wheeling area: maybe armor is more important than tires, maybe not. One other thing is you can spend a liitle money if needed on maintenance - don't wheel with something on the verge of break down. HTH.

Those gaskets look familiar.... I like the paint job, it is bold - esp the grille. I think I prefer a single colour but looks way better than I might have imagined! It depends - of you value having an easily identifiable/unique two-tone I say leave it.

Is this what you need?

Very nice!!!!

Not saying you should go FI, just that if you did it has a couple of advantages: efficiency and potentially a lower install hieght). Carbs are just fine, they have been working well for a century now. I don't know anything about VG engines, sorry. A standard clutch is 10.5", HD 11" nominally, so the bell would be slightly bigger than that. Not sure how that compares to a nissan bell. Or are you going auto? A common way to save/gain space when putting a SBC into something that didn't come with one is put an electric fan between the rad and the grille so the fan, fan clutch and shroud can be deleted - that can save several inches. You might find some extra info that you need by checking into a S-series forum for S10s, Blazers, etc. They often do swaps from 2.8s and 4.3s to 350s. As to which SBC to go with: if you can get a 350 it will likely be best bang for the buck. It can be built mild with a torquey cam and still make decent power with lower compression so you can run on the cheaper pump gas. I suggest a 9:1 comp ratio would be good maybe as high as 9.5:1, much more than that and you are looking at higher octanes possibly. Keep in mind it is the same amount of work regardless if you get a smogger 267 or a 350. The 400s are likely to be expensive, if you came across one it might be better to get and trade down and put the difference into the install. If you are worried about the fuel consumption, I guess a 305 would work, but avoid late 70s/early 80s 305s as some had bad metalurgy in the camshafts. If you were going to replace the cam anyway then it wouldn't matter I guess.

No problem, happy to help. I know a little more about chevy engines than I do Nissan so the opportunity to give back is great. It totally depends on which engine you are referring to, but FI may have a lower profilethan a carb engine. Particularily some newer ones. Since the new LS series small blocks are out they are the hot ticket for hot rodders and muscle car guys - they are awesome engines: and so I DO NOT recommend one. Why? They are sought after and so expensive. The LT1 engines from say the mid 90s are pretty available now and make a great donor drive train, sweet engines in power and efficiency, just not as good as the LS, and there is an after market support for them. The nice thing about FI is that you never need to worry about starving a carb due to an off-camber or steep hill situation when off-roading. Sure, carbs work, they just need a little more precaution that way. An even cheaper FI option is to go earlier yet and get a TBI set-up from the late 80s. These should be cheaper than dirt now relatively speaking. They are about as simple as FI gets but they tend to have a lot of pollution control vacuum lines and such and are not very efficient - they do however typically only need one O2 sensor to work. As to install angles - just going but eye to keep the engine level with a few degrees should be fine. Where you'd need to pay attention is the drive if the trans output is in a lot different spot. Follow the guidance in this area just like you would when lifting a rig should cover the bases.

Here are some dimensions for Chevy engines including the SBC. http://www.tbucketeers.com/page/index.html/_/articles/engines/sbc-dimensions-r23 For inexpensive go fast parts/huge after market, on-line available tuning knowledge, and many different configurations such as oil pans, and parts interchangability it is hard to beat a SBC for a custom project. The O/A dimensions are essentially the same from the first 265 through to the LT1 and from the smallest 262 to the biggest 400. To save front to rear room look to get an earlier design water pump (I think '68 and older). Also consider putting an eletric fan in front of the rad. The late 60s 2wd GM 4 speed manual gear boxes are quite small, not sure about the 4x4/tcase versions though - possibly an S series tcase would work. I recommend an Edlebrock carb as I think they have a off-road model with the vent tubes connected, look for a drop base air cleaner to maximize hood clearance if needed. Or make a custom cowl hood. Shorty headers may offer some space savings, not sure. The old ford 260s were very narrow if that is what is needed, they used those on the old Sunbeam Tigers - not many NA V8s fit old British cars.

Welcome to NPORA! Check to see if you high beams are on. Fogs automatically turn off with the high beams.