BowTied

Speaking from experience on other vehicles, X2 on connections from the battery all the way to the starter. Also make sure you don't have a wire that is touching the manifold or other hot surface and is shorting out when hot. Or it could be coincidence the starter was on its way out when you did the clutch.

no idea, but I'll bump the post up for ya.

The black part is the hitch, aka receiver. The drawbar can be purchased with or without a ball. The two common ball sizes are 1-7/8" or 2".

Make sure you estimate total cost of ownership. Consider insurance, estimated repairs, and fuel economy (actually run the numbers in a spreadsheet or on paper). Find the monthly difference to see if it is really worthwhile, Before buying the pathy people were telling me I would go broke with the fuel bill. I don't drive a lot of kilometres in a year so I did the math compared to a car I would actually own (no hyundai pony fot me!) and found it was a few hundred per year more - worth it to me to have a 4x4 in the snowbelt. Everyone's situation is different. But if you lose $2k selling it in value it would take several years for the pay back possibly. Been outa work b4; I wish ya good luck man.

Interesting. Are your springs wre out possibly?

Glad to see the Chevelle love in this thread!! I too would love to have an LS6. UNtil then I will enjoy the next best thing for me, my '69 SS. 396 4 speed.

Awesome, that was my hunch that it was the CV, glad it was an easy fix - and with warranty to boot! Wish all my repairs went down like that.

^ because he had the distributor out of the engine.

Could it be the CV itself? If you jack that wheel up, can you turn the CV? If so, any crunching noise?

I bought mine at a discount store in Canada called princess auto a few years ago, but I would hope you could get it at any good auto parts store. If you find these stores do not have it, almost certainly a performance shop that serves muscle cars and tuner cars should have this. 99% of the time the factory TDC mark should be spot on as in general things are keyed to the crankshaft. I don't know nissan engines very well to be honest. In a chevy engine the damper is constructed of two steel rings with a rubber material between. With age of the ruber the outer ring (with the mark) can slip and then you'd use the above to verify the mark (and then know you should replace the damper). If you find your TDC mark is off, double check with a nissan engine knowledgeable person to be certain what I wrote applies, though it should apply to any piston engine of any make. I should also add to disconnect the battery if using a piston stop....

pull plug #1 and put your thumb over the plug hole. As your buddy rotates the engine by hand the compression should want to blow your thumb off the head. Then you know you are on the compression stroke and the piston is approaching TDC. If you suspect the mark on the damper is not accurate, purchase a piston stop (a hollow brass tube with spark plug threads and wrench flats). Thread it into the #1 plug hole all the way (not stupid tight). Rotate the engine by hand till the piston hits the stop, gently. Mark the damer with a temporary mark at the timing tab. Do this again but rotate the engine the other way. TDC will be half way between your temporary marks.

Yeah. I thought they were live all the time - no auto hubs - with the automode tcase?

OP: great post, thanks for taking the time to do it. We realize that you didn't intend to be wholly scientific, no worries. This is a real world test and it is useful for comparison sake and as a guideline. I appreciate that you ran some fuel in between tests to allow some computer learn time. I wonder how many tanks is required for that? If you ever decide to repeat the test (such as after a tune up) I suggest running a bottle of good fuel injector cleaner through a litle while before starting the test (5-6 tanks before maybe). I would also recommend that the next time start with the premium. If you have the time and patience (now I am asking a lot with this one): run at least 6 tanks of each to improve the average accuracy. If you are wanting to reach for the stars on this also do a set of midgrade tank tests (having had my doubts on the value vs economy vs performance thing myself I run midgrade all the time). I'd do the test myself but my wife gets to drive the pathy all the time

One of the big doors in my garage has had the header panel and studs cut out and reframed and installed on hinges. THe garage door tracks were raised to match (I added some track extensions at the bottom). I presume a PO had an RV or something. Might work for you?

As a guess, a switch in the signal wire from the radio to the antenna would do the trick.

What happened to cause all that carnage in one outing?

I tried to remove mine once per spaz's instructions and it did want to let go. I was tryng to fix a stuck mast, but ended up npt needing to remove it. What is an OE vs. fleabay replacement worth? What is the proper lube to use on the mast?

In my pocket, all the time: the damned taxman!!! frig I hate paying taxes. (sorry, jut did mine the other night). I used to put my wallet in my back pocket... much less back pain since I stopped that.

Giving it up for lint, nice composition in that photo, rule of thirds, projection lines to secondary object, well done.

I had a lot of hotwheels. These are net pics I found of a toys like I had: Also had some star wars stuff: plus a number of the action figures. I always wanted a mellenium flacon but never had as a kid, though I bought one a couple of years ago I also had a LOT of farm implements like tractors and so forth. I had the set above only in red. Also other tonka stuff...

Recently add oil? maybe some dripped on the exhaust?

16 rims should be fine, I run terra rims for winters. If you get the same size OD tire then the spare would be ok.

I am not 100% sure i have you, but I will try. The output of the SBC engine and trans is in the dead centre of the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. If the stock engine mounts are equidistant from the centre of the vehicle, then it is just a matter of adapting mounts. If the pinion in the rear end is in the centre also, then that is fine. WHen it come to the tcase stuff and the front pinion alignment, I can't help, you will need to do some research. Position the engine as close to the firewall as you can that still permits the distributor to be serviced. In some application (dunno about this one) the firewall can be dimpled or cut and a dished piece welded in the aid clearance there. Did that help a little? Likely what you need to know most is how to connect the front axle/tcase. I agree that the carb idea is antiquated. EFI is more efficient. If you go EFI you will need to research that the stock pathy fuel pump has suffcient capacity in pressure and volume. Some GM engines such as the vortec series in the blazers for example have pretty high pressure requirements. If you need a GM pump some of them are pricey and you may need to have the top of the fuel tank modified. Another option could be to get an aftermarket fuel pump like a holley or mallory. The Holley blue fuel pump is reasonably reliable but it is LOUD. You get what you pay for here. Regardless you'd likely? need a fuel regulator. Ensure any rubber lines are pressure rated, ideally this is the time to replace them. I would suspect you may need the SBC ECM. If so then you'd need the corresponding sensors like MAF, O2 etc. The carb is surely simpler, eh? Regardless of that,... if the chevy engine has any oil leaks deal with those before putting them. It will have a timing chain which is great, but the timing chain cover seal may in part sealing with the oil pan. Way easier to deal with that before install. Certainly a 350 can be easily built to 300HP+ with little effort. I wouldn't worry about that a lot unless you lack self control. Chances are the issue will be low end torque vs the weaker links in the system like ujoints or CVs. I suspect a stock engine with 225HP would do you fine if you can find one in that range. The GM crate "Target Master" 350s are in expensive (relative to other crate engines) and not high on HP which might also be a good candidate. Unless you are a leadfoot, low end torque will be you saviour and possible your curse if you don't excercise some caution. If the diffs are strong as noted and you get upgrade ujoints and CVs, might have a helluva rig that way. The other option of rebuilding the VG is good one. Sure, you have to tear the engine at least part way down and rework it assuming you know how, but the fuel system, sensors, mounts etc. can be left stock.

I decided to look in the FSM: 1 CHECK 4WD SHIFT INDICATOR LAMP 1. Set 4WD shift switch to “2WD” position. 2. Move vehicle forward and backward. Or drive straight increasing or decreasing speed under 20 km/h (12 MPH). 3. Does 4WD shift indicator lamp keep flickering? Yes or No Yes © GO TO 2. No © INSPECTION END 2 CHECK TIGHT CORNER BRAKING SYMPTOM Drive vehicle at speed under 20 km/h (12 MPH), turning steering wheel to the limit. Does tight corner braking symptom occur? Yes or No Yes © GO TO 3. No © GO TO 4. 3 CHECK 4WD SHIFT INDICATOR LAMP Does the 4WD shift indicator lamp keep flickering when the front wheels are jacked up? Yes or No Yes © Check transfer unit operating system. No © Check tires. 4 CHECK 4WD WARNING LAMP Does 4WD warning lamp flicker? (4WD shift indicator lamp is turned OFF.) Yes or No Yes © Perform self-diagnoses. Refer to "Trouble Diagnosis without CONSULT-II", TF-59. No © GO TO 5. 5 CHECK 4WD SHIFT INDICATOR LAMP Does 4WD shift indicator lamp keep flickering? Yes or No Yes © Check again. No © INSPECTION END Of course this is just a small clip from the section, you might be best to d/l the FSM and read this section first.