BowTied

Yes, ours did. It was decent on gas too... however I am comparing to SUVs so just about anything would be better. Wtach for rust just forward of the rear bumper at the sides. The gas door requires the ignition key to open, keep this lubed. I forgot about one thing, we did end up replacing both CV joints, but they were not expensive and I could do the work myself. Good cars, just don't expect a powerhouse, cuz it sure ain't - ok first gear but second really lags unless at WOT. I also strongly recommend winter tires.

Recently sold a 95 with 1.6 auto. Changed oil and brakes, tires, battery, exhaust. Reliable little car, low on power, but worked well. It had very low miles though when sold though. When you factor the cost of the gas you would save, don't forget that you now have extra insurance and maintenance to pay... run some numbers to see how long it would take to pay off, you might be surprised.

For those of you who ocassionally or regularily tow a trailer with your VQ powered auto trans rigs: Do you ever tow in Overdrive? [if yes, please answer #2 & #3, If no, skip 2 & 3] If so, at what weight would you decide not use OD when towing on a highway (50-55mph)? If so, at what weight would you decide not use OD when towing on a freeway (60-65mph)? Thanks for sharing your actual experience.

What B says about the fuel system makes sense to me. If something blocked off the fuel at the tank, let's say you 100% pinched the line coming out of the tank, I personally think it would take at least 30 seconds to die and would likely sputter at least a little bit...

I do not have answers but will bump the post up for you. FWIW, if you get a fob I think you can program it to your truck easily enough. I got one on ebay for my '02 for $15 and programmed it myself.

Is the same issue you mentioned on CNTC? I think there I mentioned that if it is not doing it while cold, then it could be the O2 since it is bypassed during open loop mode while warming up. What is the exact code you got? I am curious to see the result here.

It does sound either fuel or steering related, I can't think of what else it could be, really. Grasping at straws here: when turning if there was a bad engine mount that allowed the engine to rock to one side which pulled a wire/ground, pinched a hose, or something, that could do it.. I think it unlikley, but might be a quick easy check. Since you said you are experienced with fuel systems...If you get into the tank, please be careful. If you use a punch or something to remove a locking ring for for the sender unit use a brass punch. Sparks plus fuel vapour equal very loud noise, injury etc. Good luck, please post back with the fix.

What does moz mean? I understand the use in context here, just have never seen that word before.

I think the answer here is no. The 96 thru 2000 use the 3.3L drivetrain vs the 01-04 VQ3.5L. There are likely some other differences but I am not sure what they are. There was a body style change in 99.5 for one thing....

87 posted a good link, that should help you decide what you need.

lol! Yes, Thanks to Andrew for facilitating this!!

It sounds like a fuel pressure regulator, possibly. I have not had that happen, so can't say for sure.

Awesome day for a birthday!!! Thanks everyone!!

Congrats B!!! lol, might was wel get a fresh start on all fronts. I hope a family is in your future, my daughter is 2.5 already and it is awesome being a dad!!

LOL! They sure are more car like, no where near the drama for daily city commuting compared to a full frame rig. But way harder to put a body lift in!!!

Happy New Year! I want to finally finish my CIM schooling (Sept-Dec) and do some upgrades to the Shasta.

That has a Jeff Dunham sound to it.... Welcome Pete!

It's an LE. Those LE owners have no clue.

ok, I am dumb.... what is the "ca" part of caR50?

Welcome!

Got something in the mail today! Thanks Adam!!

For the whistling, check to make sure no vacuum lines are cracked or falling off their ports, a vacuum leak could cause a whistle. Check lines that have sharp bends first, that is where they can often crack from heat/age.

was that an aborted hill climb? Looks like you slid sideways a foot there, pretty slippery stuff.

little tips here: avoid box store (future shop) installs. best bet is a car audio shop with a good reputation. the install should include a switch for the hood to disable the remote when the hood is open (can't lose a finger in the fan that way etc). The older/cheap way is drill a hole in the fender lip or rad support lip for a pin switch. To avoid the drilled hole (and rust), demand a mercury switch be used and attach to an existing bolt or hole on the underside of the hood. A good shop should already have these or at least can get them.

Hello, and welcome. Is this only happening when you have shifted in to 4Hi or 4Lo and does not have a problem in 2Hi? If this is true, are you using the 4x4 on pavement? If so, this is the problem. The 4x4 should only be used on slippery road surfaces. The front wheels and rear wheels are trying to turn at different rates and this causes one set to bounce. This can break something too, be careful.