BowTied

Thermostats are cheap relatively speaking - repalce it with a quality one so you have confidence in that. It is the most likley culprit I think. It could also be your fan? How long since the cooling system was flushed?

In high school we called it a crop tour, but that involved more fields than anything... and well, alcohol.

Cool, I signed up. It was late and I did not u/l any pics when I registered. How do add / modify my picd? Maybe I missd it, I'll look again.

I think it may be on the throttle body - Does this pic help? EDIT mine is an '02, could be different...?

Agreed - trans in neutral for shift in or out of 4Lo. And welcome to NPORA!

That sucks dude! How much damage, engine shot?

You are very kind to say so! Glad I could help, I get a lot from the on-line community, it feels good to give back once in a while. 1) Where they tight as in you had to break them free (you hear them crack loose)? If so, then yours were different than mine which were not loose per se, but required little effort to start to loosen. 2) I am not sure? So, you have no cables at all like I do? I wonder if your throttle is a drive by wire system... is the throttle touchy? I test drove an 03 chilkoot before buying my 02 and noticed the throttle was touchy (hit hard with light pedla perssure) compared to other cars I have owned. 3) Sorry, I really have no idea. This is a good question to post in the R50 forum.

ahhhhh ain't that cute. *throws up in corner* j/k

I am liking the new banner I see at the top of the forums!

In reading about this problem on the net I have found: 1. Failure may be caused by plugged cabin air filters. Any truth to this? 2. Some people are replacing only the amp module and it fixes the problem. THe Nissan bulletin indicates to replace both that and the motor. Anyone replace only the module and have no problems over an extended time frame? Thanks for any info.

Thanks Nige! I bought the car in the summer of '92. I worked all the effing O/T I could get for a few months until I had a good chunk to go and borrow what I needed. Took me a good two years to pay it off, just int time to back into debt for college. Common sense said I should sell it to help pay for college, but I figured I might not get another one - by the time I paid my college loans, the car would have double the price I think, so I guess I lucked out there. I did not restore it myself, and trust me, it looks much better in the pic that in real life. THat pic is 5 years old at a show in Tennessee (Chevell-abration). THe car was painted by the previous owner in '88 and is showing it's age now. Still runs and drives fun. I am not a body guy, but do all the mechanical I can (pulled the engine, replaced clutch, trans, new intake rebuilt carb etc.) mmm, yes, an LS6 would be sweet. I am glad to hear you like that colour combo, it is in my top picks too...red with black stripes looks great too but is more common. If you like Chevelles, the absolute best site in the net is www.chevelles.com, I post there under the same alias. Glad to help.

no biggy

Sorry I don't know costs, but if it is a block you are looking for a whole nother engine. The link posted about that certain hose - I hope that is your trouble.

Congrats!!!

Good to know the pathy works a little differently, thanks. Bandit - are you due for a trans fluid change? What temp rating thermostat did you install?

This could be bad. The coolant is goining somewhere and you need to find out where. It could be leaking in a non-obvious spot (hopefully). It could be leaking into the oil (cracked block) leaking into the combustion chamber (blown head gasket) or into the automatic transmission fluid (cracked lines inside radiator). EDIT How much down was it the second time, maybe the system just burped some trapped air?

Thanks! Yes, true SS396 (+.030", 4 speed, 4.10 gears).

Some interesting discussions here. Warping rotors- I think it is important to understand that turning a warped rotor does not remove the warping throughout the rotor, only the surface the pad rides on – the machining process removes the high spots caused by the warp, but any changes to the grain structure of the remaining metal are still there. Fatigue comes about by repeated movement, like when you bend a thin piece of metal by hand back and forth until it breaks. I think the potential for warped rotor to further wrap, assuming it was machined properly, is more about the fact that it goes back into service in the same conditions that caused the warp in the first place (dragging caliper, poor driving habits etc) and now combined with slightly less metal to dissipate the heat. There is one additional item which was already touched on, the quality of metallurgy. This could further impact the potential to warp of course compounding the issue. If a quality rotor that is lightly warped is turned and put into service on a truck with good brakes and used with good driving habits, it should have a useful service life. The whole engine braking thing - the way I was reading what Fueler said… maybe I misunderstand? There is everyday driving with mild braking and then there is panic stopping. I thought fueler was taking about the everyday stuff? Anyway, I would suggest the idea of emergency stop downshifting is not a great idea. But first maybe I can help explain others say it is not beneficial. Assuming the regular brakes are all brand new, the suspension is all brand new, and talking a dry paved surface: When you apply the brakes as hard as you can the wheels lock up. If the wheels are locked up, the transmission in any gear is not going make the wheels any more locked up. Now thinking of threshold braking, the tires are still rotating, but on the edge of locking up. Downshifting won’t get the tires to rotate any less as they are already decelerating as fast as possible (rotating as slow as they can) without locking up. In fact, the additional braking energy provided by the downshift could push the threshold braking to the point of locking up the drive wheels. Locked wheels = low traction and less control. If that is not happening when downshifting, then I think your brakes are not being applied to the threshold. If you are finding that downshifting appears to be helpful, and it may be helpful in your case, I would guess that your rear brakes are not locking up. This means that the front brakes get to that threshold before the rear brakes do. The downshifting then adds some additional braking to the rear wheels only which is actually helpful, assuming they do not lock up. This condition could arise from rear brakes that are not ideally adjusted. But wait, there is more - It is my experience that vehicle loading, especially on a truck that is designed to be towing, is always a balancing game when it comes to braking. Since weight transfer is always an issue and the designers know this, the front brakes often have a larger contact area and/or mechanical advantage from the hydraulic system. To help control rear wheel lock up, a proportioning valve is include in the system. My point is there are a lot of reasons (vehicle condition, vehicle loading etc.), beyond the basic theories, why someone might be experiencing some reduced braking distance using a panic stop downshift. It is CERTAINLY hard on the vehicle. I think that one will find comparable results by shifting to neutral instead with less wear and tear. For regular driving downshifting for hills, especially when towing, is encouraged. I hope that helps.

This is my 69

Any pics of the Chevelle? Still have it?

I know on my other vehicles that a lock-up torque converter will not lock up until the engine is in closed loop mode (Open loop = warm up cycle, closed loop = engine at some miniumum operation temperature). If this is happening to you, it could be: tstat stuck open, too low of a stat temp rating for your climate, temperature sensor failure, temp sensor signal not getting to the ECU. There may be other causes? Cold front kit and block heaters are a great thing. If you have no block heater, you can buy a similar thing that installs in the heater hose or rad hose.

I agree with the above. I have an 02 LE and had to shop a while to get what I wanted and had to go to a bigger city for selection too. So far mine is stock. From what I read here, the 96+ are a bit harder to modify for moderate+ off-road use, but it can be done. The 01s had a couple of issues that were fixed for 02, but were not huge issues.. something with the tailgate lifts I think. As noted the automode makes mods a bit harder but if you are only doing light off-roading you would likely be ok with automode. The auto feature is very handy if your significant other is not tuned into the fact that you don't use 4x4 on dry pavement I have only had my 02 a bit over a year yet and it is not even to 80k miles yet, so I cannot comment on your trans Q but so far so good. All I have done is change the oil, and the power valve screws (see my write up here). However, if you are tall (over 6') watch your head on that tailgate, it was designed by short people I guess. Same goes for the driver's seat, I wish it would go down/back more. The heated seats are great. The lack of a tilt steering wheel sucks, but you might not notice if you are acustomed to Nissans.

Assuming you mean backfiring out the exhaust this can mean unburnt fuel is getting into the hot exhaust system where it then burns causing the back fire. Could be valves or just running too rich. Does it do it when cold and warm or?

If it is tight at the firewall, why not move it forward a touch? Uh, I think the flywheel needs to be resurfaced.