BowTied

Great stuff! Did you have to modifiy the cross member or did you just do that for added strength? Please keep posting pics, a great way for all to learn!

I found some more information on axles here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/233955 Still looking for 87-95 trans ratio data.

How about a 4.3L Vortec swap? Or go obscure and find an older Ford 260V8, they are quite small and were found in some little British car, I think it was a Sunbeam Tiger. The vortec has great torque and pretty abundant in wreckers. Maybe look into having a custom camshaft ground for the engine that you have? Could be a cheap way to wake up your engine. That and an after market exhaust system could get you maybe 20% more power.

I understand the good ones have a input from the nuetral safety switch on the manual transmissions. I have one on my Jimmy and love it. I will get one on the pathy when my wife gets a job. Not that you may have to buy an extra module to bypass the factory alarm system if so equipped. I strongl;y recommend going to a reputable shop that does stereos and the like vs. future shop or other lo end store. You want soldered and heat shrinked connections routed nive and clean and tie strapped, not some hack job - the savings is never worthwhile in the long run. If you get a combo alarm: They often put a hood pin switch in that sets the alarm if the hood is opened. They may drill a hole to mount the switch. I told them not to do this and for a just few dollars more I instead got a mercury switch mounted to the hood under an existing screw. Much cleaner install. HTH.

Yes, they are supposed to when stopping in reverse. Maintenance neglect or sloppy assembly can hinder this. Not necesarily a huge contributor, but several things added together...

Is it possible here that XPLORx4 and Alex are both partially right? Proportioning valve permits greater braking system energy to the front brakes: True Weight transfer is to the front of the vehicle during breaking: True The cars I have looked at have greater braking surface area on the fronts than the rear. On a 4 wheel drum car I had, the front pads were wider, for example. Of course this extra friction material is needed to do the extra work required due to the weight transfer. So this means that you need more line pressure to apply to have the same pad to drum force. Add to this the weight transfer and you need even more pressure. In an ideal world, the proportioning valve would be so adjusted that all 4 wheels would get equal braking force at the same time. But vehicle loading changes, road surface and tires change. Shocks wear out. Also, Disc brakes tend to be better at long term self adjusting for optimal operation (until the caliper sliders seize) in my experience than drum. All this contributes.

I searched here and of course google. I am looking for all Pathfinder transmission, drive axle, and transfer case ratios. Here is what I have - can you fill in what I am missing? Axle 4.375 4.625 4.875 5.143* Trans 1/2/3/4/5 RE4R01A 2.785 1.545 1.000 0.694 RE5R05A 3.842 2.353 1.529 1.000 0.839 FS5R30A 3.580 2.077 1.360 1.000 0.811 Transfer Case TX10 2.2 (3.7, 3.92)* ATX14A 2.596 *If there are common upgrades to OE stuff, I want to know those too. Thanks for any help with data I don't have here.

Pilot bearing or bushing is something to add, also Throw out bearing trans oil Are the driveshafts the same length? I presume the speedo connection would be the same. You'll need to deal with the trans cooling line removal and plug the rad. All I can think of right now.

That'll help lower your center of gravity.

When searching know that Hidden Hitch, Draw-tite and Reese are all the same company now and likely to be the same product.

Once again, Simon is the Googlenator! good work. Make sure it isn't the master cylinder or the top of the flex line that leaked onto something else then dripped down.

Am I missing something or is that stupid? I could see too low of an RPM being hard on the engine making it lug. Your note of the oil rate leaking faster with higher engine temp makes sense, oil gets thinner when it gets hotter in this case. I am concerned your temp gauge moved that much, you musta been more than a quart low at some point to have the temp go that high? So was the noise actually from the trans or was it from the engine and you could simply hear it better in 5th when the RPMs were lower so less noise from engine revs? I recommend you change your oil now. Hard to say if the oil was over stressed from heat (not too likely) on this trip, but I wouldn't chance it for the cost if it were my rig. A RMS is hard to do on most engines. If it leaks oil into your clutch in can wrech that too (it will start slipping and could wreck the clutch assembly and flywheel. Hopefully it is not getting into your bellhousing - had that happen on my old Chevy.

How does a fine point make it easier to fire? The voltage the coil kicks out is relative to the gap opening I thought? I put regular NGKs, not platinium or iridium a year ago with zero issue - recent emission test scored zero on idle and drive for hydrocarbons. Now power issues or mis-fires.

A buddy of mine had similar problems with a Jimmy every time he went this looong hil (escarpment) it would through a CEL which would cure itself later. I wonder if the altitude change is messing with a map sensor or something like that? Until you undo the bypass, or get a guru to chime in, I think it may be hard to troubleshoot. Part throttle is where you will have some timing advance... do you here any detonation/pinging? Thinking knock sensor here...

Very Sweet!!! Are those Chev truck rims? Those new shocks look wicked. Why were you trying to break free the strut bolts with a torque wrench?

Wow. Just clear the codes and trade it in. It would be hard to do worse. AND you can get a 4x4.

Use a length of rubber hose, like fuel line, to your ear like a stethascope to help hear the noise. Just be careful around the moving parts. Failing that you'll need to partially remove the belt to free wheel the alt or the idler to feel for the bad bearings.

I dunno, I have an aujomagic. Did you check the clutch fluid, linkages for binding etc.?

battery cable - due to the airbag module being right there?

Take pictures while in the junkyard. I have the same climate control pictured above and it does work nicely. While the fan symbol on the display shows 4 speeds, I think it may actually be variable speed. You may need a different fan motor? not sure.....

how many miles on the clock? Maybe time for new O2 sensors?

Maybe its bra is on too tight?

Did you ever determine his motive?

Very nice! Do you own/have access to a metal break or did you have the top made?

I dunno? An electrical short? Never heard of that one before... This sounds more like internal damage, but I am no tran expert. I hope I am wrong.