BowTied

sorry to hear of your luck.... but hopefully you can spin it into a V8 swap...

My mailbox is still empty.

Epic!!!! Awesome, bravo! Before paintball, my buds and I used to play Laser Tag, likely most are here are too young to remember that? It was a laser type gun (like a laser pointer but infrared) and a sensor you wore on your chest. http://home.comcast.net/~ferret1963/Lazer_Tag_Brand.HTML

Very nice!! The square tubing sculpture looks Escher inspired, was that the intent or just a coincidence?

My 2 cents on the 4.3 GM engine swap... It will be a lot of work to put in a vortec with computer controls. Another option is to get an older TBI or even carburated 4.3 to make the swap simpler, those would have a bit less HP. As to the power thing.... yes, go small block if you can, there will be more power... But for the 4.3 being "almost the same power".... well if you are simply looking a peak HP numbers, sure. But the real story is in average torque. Torque is what moves a vehicle and a larger engine is usually going to have a better average torque across the RPM range, not to mention the peak torque will come earlier. "There's no replacement for displacement" Don't discount a 4.3 since peak HP numbers are similar. If you have to rev alot more to get the peak HP and torque... well you get the idea. This is even more important when towing. I think most agree the VQ3.5 is a notable change from a 3.0 or a 3.3.... I own a VQ3.5 and a Vortec 4.3 - I prefer to tow with the 4.3 engine for the lower end torque to get me moving, though either would do the job. The two trucks I have are comparable, the pathy may even be a bit quicker - but has about 50% more gearing to accomplish this. What ever path you decide to take, replacing a stock engine for a stock engine will of course be easiest. Going to a new brand of engine hardest. The 4.3 swap (or small block) would be a bit of a challenge, but it can be done and then you would never need to change another timing belt.

Foiled by the post-office!!! Hope you liked the packaging, that took me like an hour!

How could you ever know it was me?

I pushed my '83 Suzuki GS650G 1km (.62 miles) across town when I bought it. It was not licensed and I had no truck or trailer at the time so..... hills were not so fun.

Man you guys are hard on him.... If it is any consolation, many of us have done dumber things at one time or another. Good for you for sticking with it to get it resolved. Anyone care to share a dumber story? I almost sold an old truck I had because I put the ditributor in 180° out of sync and it wouldn't start anymore.

As a follow up the Xterra rims fit perfect without spacer or other modification. In the following pic they are bolted on using the larger Xterra tires and those fit as well, although clearances were tight. I have since put my P245 70 16 winter tires on and the fit is as stock. I measured the back spacing compared to my OE rims and they virtually identical.

Could it be your front tires skiping? If so, are you doing this on a hard surface like pavement? Don't engage your 4x4 on pavement, this is bad for the system. The front wheels are trying to rotate the same number of times which doesn't work well when turning. Try this on loose gravel or other slippery surface and see if it goes away or is notably reduced. If you do tight figure 8s in 2WD does the rear make the same skipping? The orange sticker denotes a limited slip differential, if it was having problems the rear axle may not be getting differential action like it should for turning.

Nice welds. GMAW (MIG)?

Sent mine out this morning, should be there Monday/Tuesday. Just to wait on the postal service now....

Tstat. Gotta be. THey are not expensive, new stat and gasket might be $10. You'll save that in gas over the next coupla tanks! Do a flush soon or the new stat will suffer the same fate. Ideally do both at the same time, but I understand about the money thing. Also a new rad cap should be on your list before summer. G/L

Yes, I tried with the trans in neutral as well as the clutch pushed in. I started with gentle pressure and gradually increased to the point where I was sure I was exceeding practical force It felt like there was something solid, possibly/probably metal that was preventing it from going into 4Lo. It went into 4Hi and Neutral no problem. I have also compared to a newer frontier so I have an idea of force needed and I was well beyond. Also the seller and my pal tried to no avail. Since no one has chimed in with any common issues, I presume that it is a 50/50? gamble of shifter linkage vs internal problem...?

CLF, that is kinda what I have been thinking. Not having the knowleged of how likely this is I am worried about making the recommendation. One thing, there was no grinding at all in to 4Hi or attempting 4Lo. It felt like there was a hard stop preventing the shifter from moving into 4Lo. 2Hi to 4Hi moved easily. I can only assume there is a separate shift shaft the shifter operates. I guess I better review that section of the FSM....

Thanks for the comments gents, keep them coming. It is for sale at a used car dealership. Other than service history like fluid changes the history is unknown. 4Hi appears to work well. It is a few thousand, and priced competitively to other similar trucks. It would be a no brainer if the tcase worked, it would already be in my friend's garage. Do these tcases (I think this is a tx10?) have any common fail points that would give this result? I am wondering if it is common for a linkage to seize if not used in a long time ...or is it common that some component fails inside prevent 4Lo engagement in these tcases? In general what are the fail points that prevent 4Lo engagement? The 4Hi works so nicely it is hard to imagine the need to swap the whole tcase, but I just don't know enough about them. tia...

Gents, My friend and I looked at an 2001 for sale, 5 speed & manual tcase. Looks all around like a good truck, maintained etc. It will however NOT shift into 4Lo. We know to push down when crossing neutral from 4Hi to 4Lo. We are assuming something is not working correctly in the shifting mechanism or there is internal tcase problems. Please comment on what the common problems are here and best case worst case repair considerations. Need to decide to buy the truck with a discount or to run away! Thanks!!

If the stat is stuck open, sounds like it is, you would be left in open loop mode which by-passes your O2 sensor allowing the engine to run rich for warm-up. Hence the poor mileage. At least that happened to me on my old Jimmy; new stat fixed it right up. The temp gauge should run somewhere near the mid point typically, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 on most vehicles that do not have graduated gauges.

Do the windows fog up too? If so, got to be heater core.

Really? The head light switch could cause just one of the high beams to go off? I just presumed the switch operated a relay that then operated the lights....

Did the MNR ever respond?

Could this be the same reason my pass high beam light doesn't work... except the odd time I hit a bump and then it is on for a while (till the next bump)?

My wish list items... An air powered grease gun would be cool similar to this: http://www.princessauto.com/engines/fuel-lubricants/grease/4270328-air-operated-grease-gun A used tan glove box door for an '02 pathy (mine has some decent scratches ) An AC voltage checker like this: http://www.princessauto.com/tools/miscellaneous-tools/8124422-voltage-checker The new Star Trek DVD is also on my list (not blueray, but please wide screen only) maybe I will think of something else....