94extreme

this is like finding gold.

man, i'd suggest a haynes or chiltons.. many steps.. huge job.

no whine here and it's single digits and plummeting. just drove it too.

at these temps even with the cardboard the needle stays in the same low position on my truck.

i'd start the the lights themselves as they are somewhat exposed to the elements. i had mine blow because the lights got packed full of snow.

so, you're gonna anable his lazy ass?

check faq

i wasn't going to be as clever at all. thanks.

:bow:

yeah, there are two other bolts that keep it tightly in place. they do not have the tension though but you need to loosen them before adjusting and then retighten them afterwards.

my 89 had them from the factory too. just xe has the drums on the early models. an MC from a 4 disc system wouldn't do that. it just wouldn't distribute the power like it's supposed to. the pedal should still be stiff. the MC may leak into the booster. you may not be able to see it.

yeah, clutch assembly going bye bye.

what were you thinking when you were buying a junk MC - the most critical part of your truck? :o it's a bad one not a wrong one. that's what the pedal does when the MC is dead. btw. did you bench bleed it and then bled all the lines?

i am guessing the sending unit for that gage is not working or is grounded out somewhere. check the ecu codes although i don't recall a code for that condition.

pathfinders like to run below half mark on the temp gage. the fan shouldn't really spin that freely. it should spin but then stop pretty quickly. don't waste your time with the split boot. they are about as good as the split boot you have on there now. however, they are great as an on trail replacement (temporary.) otherwise they are pretty worthless. if the boots are split i guarantee it that there is crap in that grease that you just can't see. to do it properly you need to disassemble the joint and clean it of ALL the grease then repack and put on a new solid boot. you will have to open up the hub etc.. it's really just time consuming and the bj is kind of a pita to get back in but it's not really that hard. btw. many split boots are somewhat generic as they normally fit a bunch of different makes and models.

the little rubber things? i took those off long time ago as i got tired of having to mess with them everytime i need to do something in that area. how are the big plastic fender liners attached to each other? mine are just loose and sometime, in really windy conditions my tires rub on them as they tend to bend out that much. there are holes there but i don't recall any fasteners. thanks

every ride, baby!

do you have owner's manual? it's all in there... 3.5L

just fill till it starts to overflow. and you may want to check your t-case as the older ones wanted gl too. i switched mine. it's fine after 2y or so. i wheel plenty too.

^^ what kind of fly-by-night outfit was that. no way you could find a reputable shop to do it for less then $200 including the alt.

lower it man. that's where it's at.

one more for not hard. just do it.

pic3, is 8e next to 2e? hard to read from the diagram. ok, i got it and that's the position. had to DL the pic itself to be able to see it clearly. thanks glad to know about the reed switch. thanks

what pages are these on? thanks. crap, the manual is not on my hd but i do have it somewhere. i think i am going to check behind the gages first as there is something making a noise there and i am wondering if it isn't a ground or something that came loose. that noise showed up semi shortly before everything went kaputt.

ok, code 14: speed sensor. any idea where on the tranny (manual) it is exactly? thanks