94extreme

yeah they are available. touring=softer, sport=stiffer

i said the trick because it looks like it's in the area and the shape of vice grips. regardless. you can solder it unless the fins are aluminum. it can be pretty tough. it's been years since i have done that. rad shop maybe able to do it. one that's around here would probably do it for a $20 but most probably won't want to do it. not sure of your year zoo, but a rad from from around the same time should be fine. measure twice. no bars leak. you don't want that stuff plugging up the heat exchanger in the dash. just don't do it. btw. pepper works about the same and it's way cheaper.

118k thusfar -knock on wood-

cold? try high of 0F.. about the same in my garage.. i worked fast.

how many miles? i'd check the plugs first. lift the dizzy cap and look in there for moisture and wear too. loose plug wires? could also be fuel filter... any codes?

^^^ let me guess... the belt trick?

screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel.

were you able to purchase just the gears? where? and no i haven't had the time and it's been super fridged here. everything else works so i am ok for now although it still bugs me to see my speed at 0. thanks

you really shouldn't be going that fast in 4lo. 4lo is more of a crawling gear when the conditions are extreme. if you have the need for speed, do it in 4hi but only upto 40s.

the marks (factory ones) on the belt will only allign with the sprokets once in a while.. not at every TDC. what i wanted you to do originally was for you to match up the marks YOU made and then go to TDC. allignement of the cams and crank is what you're after here as that's what is imperative. it won't blowup but just in case have an extinguisher ready.

:D

not sure what you're asking here exactly. but, when you get your truck to TDC then you'll also find out that all the sprokets also should be in the right position. dimples should all be ligned up. that's why you need to start with the engine at TDC. it makes stuff way simpler off the bat. this way you also should be in time.. there is really never a need to adjust the timing. the only time you'd have to do it is if you ever move the dizzy, like to remove the heads or cams.. otherwise i have never, ever had a vehicle just go out of time. never. if it ever does, you got some issues. if you have marked the dizzy position before loosening it, you probably won't have to time the engine then either. just move the dizzy back to it's mark.

zoo, i think you're there. check in after you fire it up. on sync movement: it's really hard to get every point accross via the internet, isn't it? for those who work on stuff that part kind probably seems natural. it did to me as all those things, under normal conditions momve together. but that's why you keep asking questions and we keep trying to clarify.

you didn't just try it? pavelow got you the answer anywho.

how much did you turn them? and why did you turn the crank? the idea is to turn all of those in sync not seperately. at this point i really can't tell if it's all good or not. you may be if everything else checks out. turn the whole assembly by hand now.. it should be pretty uniform. no stubborn spots. if piston is at top of stroke and rotor points to #1 plug wire, you should be good.

syazoo, did you miss these? next time around the marks on the belt and the sprokets will not allign. only every so many revolutions.

i am putting on an aftermarket one. ~$30.. gates belt may be even more the nissan one but they are good i just don't have the money. if you have the cash, go with nissan pump as the remanufactured ones aren't exactly the same; they don't move the same volume of water through (less.) found, what year and how many miles on your truck? btw. you can do it. just start at TDC man and mark everything like zoo and then refer to this thread. supreson, i can help you but i am on EST. you said base.. what kind of base? as in mountain or military. if mountain, work on your vehicle a little closer to civilization, ok? please. lol

ok. right now you need to to the belt like in the pic and make sure it and all the sprokets lineup. the left one you're gonna have to turn just a tad to the right and the right one a tad to the left. the bottom one is just as it needs to for now. do not rotate any of these in circles.. just a tad back to allignement. marking all this was smart as it really should save you from more serious work to get everything back and.. at this point you don't need to dive into that. after you get everything back to the exact same position as it was before, move on to the TDC and on. basically i'd start over. all the dimples and such are kind of approx.. don't stress it to be nutz on. this is not a swiss clock. superson, yes, TDC is where you start this job besides unhooking the battery... in the condition we have in the original post, i think, he needs to go back as per above and others before trying/doing anything else.

it will flow but very slowly up to that 1'.. that hole isn't that small so i think it's totaly doable... it's simple physics. google.com

did you start at TDC or not? i think i'd try to get the old belt back on, if it is marked, and get everything back to way it was then get it to TDC if you didn't start there. the cam sprokets have dimples in them (on the face where the wholes are below the teeth) and there are similar dimples on the housing. left one should be somewhere between 10 and 11 o'clock and the right one between 1 and 2 o'clock when alligned properly at TDC. mnost don't have the mark on the housing for the crank sproket but it should be somewhere around 4 or 5 o'clock, iirc. TDC: this is how i do it and it's pre disassebly: pull plug #1. stick a wooden dowel in the hole, phillip's screwdriver will work too. crank the crank by hand (wrench) untill the piston in #1 is at the top of it's stroke. then check the rotor to see if it's pointing in #1 wire position. if it's 180deg off then you need to crank the whole thing over untill the #1 piston is at the top again. so, piston #1 at the top of it's stroke and rotor pointing towards #1 wire.

TDC and the marks. you could also count the number of teeth in between. search and you may find those numbers. i don't remember what they are. sthey've been posted them more then once.

park it before you kill yourself or someone.. please! thanks if you do keep driving you'll also most likely need new rotor$ too. i also suggest you get new hoses as they can't be inspected from the outside.

regular break (the pedal) works just as fine.

the marks should line up with marks on all 3 sprokets.